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Thread: Chess set and a question

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ellen Theisen View Post
    What a good idea. If I can turn a taper close enough, this might work -- assuming I can learn to part with one hand and hold onto the piece with the other. (I have lots of burnable firewood, so lots to practice with.) Chris, thanks for pointing me to the screw chuck and bottle stopper chuck. I didn't know of them, and they sound promising, too, though Dale's idea would leave me without a hole to fill in the bottom. With western maple, I've found that parting down to less than about 1/4" is inclined to break, even at slow speed. And then both pieces just go flying. I appreciate the kind comments and the excellent ideas! And I'm still open to more ideas.
    Ellen if you don't have any problem with doing the above then this is similar but even better. After tuning a 1/2" straight tenon on one end of the blank between centers, remove the spur center and instal a 1/2" draw-bar style collet into your headstock, insert the 1/2" straight tenon into the collet, bring up your tail-stock live center to the blank and tighten until the collet "clamps" the tenon(you don't really need a draw-bar). This will save you from having to try to turn a fitted/tapered tenon. Oh you don't have one of these collets you say? Well, I just happen to have one that I don't use and would be glad to send it to you if you would like to try it. Just PM me with a shipping address.

    Edit: the link is only to give you an idea of the device I am talking about.
    Last edited by James Combs; 02-22-2012 at 6:39 PM.
    ____________________________________________
    JD at J&J WoodSmithing
    Owingsville, Kentucky

    "The best things in life are not things."

  2. #17
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    Dec 2005
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    Richmond, VA
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    Ellen, you don't have to worry about filling the hole with a threaded mandrel. Just part it off above where the hole is and you have a solid base to the piece. The skew give you more flexibility and a cleaner cut than a parting tool, and it is easy to make it concave and need no sanding.

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by James Combs View Post
    Ellen if you don't have any problem with doing the above then this is similar but even better. After tuning a 1/2" straight tenon on one end of the blank between centers, remove the spur center and instal a 1/2" draw-bar style collet into your headstock, insert the 1/2" straight tenon into the collet, bring up your tail-stock live center to the blank and tighten until the collet "clamps" the tenon(you don't really need a draw-bar). This will save you from having to try to turn a fitted/tapered tenon. Oh you don't have one of these collets you say? Well, I just happen to have one that I don't use and would be glad to send it to you if you would like to try it. Just PM me with a shipping address.
    Edit: the link is only to give you an idea of the device I am talking about.
    Well, I have to eat a little crow and apologize to Ellen Theisen. I had offered her a 1/2" "MT2" collet that I thought I had. Went to get it and it turned out to be MT3. Ellen had PM'd me about the offer and that is when I went to make sure I had it and discovered my mistake. I have already sent her a PM detailing my mistake, however, I have another idea that uses another item I do have. It is an MT2 drill chuck arbor with a 3/8"-24 threaded post. To use it would require drilling and taping the end of the spindle blank for the 3/8"-24 threaded post. Ellen I have an old 3/8"-24 tap that you could have with it. All you would need is to pick up a 21/64" drill bit for the hole. Here are some photos of how it would be used. It would be exactly like using a bottle stopper chuck.

    These are the collets I had and forgot that they were MT3(see label)
    IMG_3900.JPGIMG_3899.jpg

    Not a great photo but the arbor is indicated by the white arrow. Here I am taping a piece of maple scrap to make sure it works.
    IMG_3901.jpg

    Here is the scrap blank with the arbor screwed into it and mounted on my lathe. The right end of this blank could easily be turned to shape and parted off. The arbor holds the blank securely enough that the tail stock could be pulled away and the end grain finish turned if required.
    IMG_3902.JPG

    Ellen as I indicated in the PM, let me know and I will send the arbor, the tap and the sample blank for you to try until you get something better. If you get something better like the PSI collet chuck I suggested in the PM you can send these back... or not. Not a big deal. I don't have a use for either the tap or the arbor.
    Last edited by James Combs; 02-24-2012 at 8:45 AM.
    ____________________________________________
    JD at J&J WoodSmithing
    Owingsville, Kentucky

    "The best things in life are not things."

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Central Ohio
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    858
    I've been turning for four years and I can't imagine turning a set that nice!! I'm very impressed.
    Ridiculum Ergo Sum

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Olympic Peninsula, WA
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    9
    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Lux View Post
    I've been turning for four years and I can't imagine turning a set that nice!! I'm very impressed.
    Scott, what a lovely thing to say. Thank you!

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Olympic Peninsula, WA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jake Helmboldt View Post
    Ellen, you don't have to worry about filling the hole with a threaded mandrel. Just part it off above where the hole is and you have a solid base to the piece. The skew give you more flexibility and a cleaner cut than a parting tool, and it is easy to make it concave and need no sanding.
    Yes, good ideas. Thanks. But I wonder about screwing into end grain. Would it be solid enough?

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Olympic Peninsula, WA
    Posts
    9
    James,
    This idea seems good, too. It looks like the arbor just fits into the headstock the way the spur drive does, right? Do you think this would work better than the collet you suggested in your first post? As I mentioned in a previous reply, I'm a bit leery about screwing into end grain. (Also, I see the collet set is half the price of the PSI collect chuck set ) Would the chuck set be more versatile?

    I have a 21/64" bit, so I'd be good to go. Since you're not using the arbor and tap, I'd love to try them. I have plenty of scrap wood, so no need to send a blank.

    Thanks so much!

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
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    Mount Sterling, KY
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ellen Theisen View Post
    James,
    This idea seems good, too. It looks like the arbor just fits into the headstock the way the spur drive does, right? Do you think this would work better than the collet you suggested in your first post? As I mentioned in a previous reply, I'm a bit leery about screwing into end grain. (Also, I see the collet set is half the price of the PSI collect chuck set ) Would the chuck set be more versatile?

    I have a 21/64" bit, so I'd be good to go. Since you're not using the arbor and tap, I'd love to try them. I have plenty of scrap wood, so no need to send a blank.

    Thanks so much!
    See my email I just posted to you.
    The chuck is definitely much more versatile. You can turn most any thing small using it.
    Check out my email for a link to the almost identical setup as I was proposing at about the same price as shipping my items.
    ____________________________________________
    JD at J&J WoodSmithing
    Owingsville, Kentucky

    "The best things in life are not things."

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