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Thread: Identifying a GOOD, used radial arm saw

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  1. #1
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    Identifying a GOOD, used radial arm saw

    I'm possibly looking to bring in a good, used radial arm saw. How do I identify the good ones from the bad ones? I need this thing to really be dead nuts accurate and to stay that way. I know the old ones are good, but how old? Which ones? How do I identify them? What's a fair price? LOL...I know I know, but I'll take any help I can get.

    I'm just spending too much time fiddling around with my "spare" contractor saw, currently relegated to some slotting operations. It seems like I'm always adjusting it. I really need a tool I can rely on. I've already wasted half a day trying to find the latest gremlin, not to mention all the time spent compensating for imperfect performance after the fact.

    Thanks for any help

  2. #2
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    I am a fan of OMGA and Original Saw Co but they are a little harder to find than a Dewalt for example and tend to cost more. What is your budget?
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  3. #3
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    Any old Delta or Dewalt from the 50's or early 60s will be what you are looking for. The smaller ones are easier to come by than the larger ones. The bigger saws over 1 hp are sometimes 3 phase but if you have 3 phase your all set.
    Don

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Van Huskey View Post
    I am a fan of OMGA and Original Saw Co but they are a little harder to find than a Dewalt for example and tend to cost more. What is your budget?
    I wouldn't even know what to budget for it. $500....$800? I don't know.

  5. #5
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    BTW, I figured out the gremlin this time, and it's fatal as far as I'm concerned. The arbor has a ridiculous amount of play in it. I think I just finally wore out that cheap saw, and I've no intention of putting another minute into it.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Coloccia View Post
    I wouldn't even know what to budget for it. $500....$800? I don't know.
    $500-$800 for a totally rebuilt one is still way high.
    For a good used DeWalt, about $150 max. Might need a cleaning and bearing work. But you'll wind up with a dead-nuts accurate saw.

    I know a lot of the people hang out here, but sign-up on the DeWalt forums. Then check the Classifieds.
    http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodb.../start?lgnJR=1
    Last edited by Myk Rian; 02-23-2012 at 8:19 PM.
    Never, under any circumstances, consume a laxative and sleeping pill, on the same night

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Myk Rian View Post
    $500-$800 for a totally rebuilt one is still way high.
    For a good used DeWalt, about $150 max. Might need a cleaning and bearing work. But you'll wind up with a dead-nuts accurate saw.

    I know a lot of the people hang out here, but sign-up on the DeWalt forums. Then check the Classifieds.
    http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodb.../start?lgnJR=1
    So now that they all know I don't have a clue what to pay for these things, I should probably sign up under an alias? LOL.

  8. #8
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    What are you planning to use if for? That makes a big difference in what to look for.
    If it's for trim or picture frames, etc. up to an inch or so, an MBF will do you well.
    If you want to do framing with it, that makes a bigger saw your choice.

    I restored an MBF 9" and put an 8" blade on it. Super accurate saw.

    Never, under any circumstances, consume a laxative and sleeping pill, on the same night

  9. #9
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    The RAS thing, though, is a lot like the table saw thing. You can buy as much, or as little, RAS as you want.

    The "round arm" DeWalts ARE excellent saws, but ... to give you a bit of higher-end perspective ..... $1,775 will get you one of these bad boys.,



    while $100 WILL get you a good "hobbyist" MBF model.



    Either way, great saws !
    He's no fun. He fell right over !

  10. #10
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    In the immediate future, for slotting fingerboards, but if it's in the shop anyway, I will probably use it to make scarf joints, break down rough lumber, make kerfed linings, square up the heel of necks, etc. If it's here anyway, I would probably use it for anything that resembles a crosscut, I would guess.

  11. #11
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    Neil: so you're saying the next time I see a GE14 for sale for $400, I should buy it? Is it simple to replace a 3 phase motor with a regular motor in those things, or would that be a project. I definitely don't want a project.

  12. #12
    Are the Maggi saws worth considering? I've seen these show up in auctions.

  13. #13
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    Once the saw is setup, and a kerf is cut through the fence, that kerf makes an excellent alignment mark.
    Never, under any circumstances, consume a laxative and sleeping pill, on the same night

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Coloccia View Post
    So now that they all know I don't have a clue what to pay for these things, I should probably sign up under an alias? LOL.

    No need for that as Neil began to point out prices can go way up. The good OMGA and Original Saw RAS will usually begin around 1,200-1,500. Now it becomes a matter of figuring out what you plan to do with it.

    Regarding 3 phase, if you find a good 3ph one at a good price just leave the 3ph motor on and run it on a VFD then you can have motor braking also.
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  15. #15
    Van, can you explain to me how the VFD (variable frequency drive)???? actually works with these saws?

    thanks
    Quality by Design! nuff said....

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