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Thread: Identifying a GOOD, used radial arm saw

  1. #61
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Northern Colorado
    Posts
    1,884
    You done good, John.

    She's a beauty

    Be safe. Enjoy !
    He's no fun. He fell right over !

  2. #62
    Be sure you check the heel on the blade. Most people check for square off of one tooth and never think to check if the motor is square on the carriage both horizontal and vertical. You don’t set it and if its off – your 90 to the fence will give you a compound cross cut and miters will never match!
    I use a jig for 45 miters and they are dead on. I use a Freud thin kerf hi-ATB 60 tooth 7 ¼”blade w/ stabilizers for miters. Discovered that by accident as it was a new blade for my old 40 year old hand held craftsman saw and it cut like a razor blade so I gave it a try on the radial for miters- best part – its only 19.95!. I also made a fixture to check all setting on my Radial using 2 dial indicators. I all ways recheck when changing from cross cut to rip. My Radial is 40 years old – never had problem – had 1 kick back ripping something I should have not been doing to start with. I always use a 4 roller tension board on the side and tension rods on top. No saw dust in my face either as I made a whole new guard that discharges out the rear with interchangeable deflectors. I can also rip 0-49” wide with a custom made 8’ front fence. Made lots of gadgets for this saw –micro adj carriage, digital read outs etc. I will cry the day it blows up. Last but not least ready for this – It’s a CRAFTSMAN 12” Radial Arm Saw, an old cast iron work horse.
    I posted a photo with the 7 ¼” blade in and miter jig – note the guard. Way back in the years Craftsman made what they called an Industrial line of tools - every one of them still works. Can't say much for todays junk though.

    IMG_2745.jpg
    Last edited by Tim Howell; 03-01-2012 at 11:32 PM.

  3. #63
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Omaha, NE
    Posts
    133
    I, for one, would be interested in seeing more of your jigs and fixtures.

  4. #64
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    LA & SC neither one is Cali
    Posts
    9,447
    Quote Originally Posted by bob stephens55 View Post
    Van, can you explain to me how the VFD (variable frequency drive)???? actually works with these saws?

    thanks
    Variable frequency drive is correct. They can take a single phase input and output 3 phase power to you can run a 3ph motor. There are other ways to do this but if you only have one or maybe two machines VFD is the cheapest way to do it (discounting the flawed static phase converter). The VFD will also allow variable speed, motor braking, reversing, soft start and other things, obviously all of these would not be useful on a RAS but can be useful on other machines.
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

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