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Thread: skew angle on rebate (rabbet) planes

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
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    Anchorage, Alaska
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    1,617
    Howard,

    Matt Bickford discusses skew angles on rabbet planes here: http://musingsfrombigpink.blogspot.c...ht-rabbet.html

    In this section he infers that the angles are superior for cut quality when cutting across the grain but he prefers straight because of how it performs when going with the grain. Interesting read.

    Jim
    One can never have too many planes and chisels... or so I'm learning!!

  2. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Fabbri View Post
    Larry, I'm curious, I read in Whelan's book, which my brother got me as a gift, that you can use triangular saw type files as floats. Anneal them, and grind/sand it smooth, and cut teeth into it. Have you tried this, or do you find it doesn't provide enough clearance still? It seems like it might work okay, though.

    On another note (but which also might be of interest to Howard), what's your preferred method of cutting the conical escapement, Larry? Do you use a multiple blade pipe reamer, or do you step drill it and use a rasp/gouge?

    Joe
    Joe,
    I don't think the float with 60º sides is a good idea. I tried making side floats with only a 15º angle on the float edges and found the bidirectional cutting a problem. With the fine points on the sides make for an incredibly aggressive float. By the time you realize you've over-cut, you've gone way too far. I kept trying and made them in three different sizes and even tried it on the small cheek floats. I ruined planes with all of them. I don't mess with that any more, it was an expensive flop.

    I do the initial shape of the conical escapement with eccentric single edge reamers I made at different angles. Different body widths require different angles. When cutting circles in wood you'll have two areas where you're cutting against the grain. I tried different geometries on the cutter and the one that causes the least tear out is close to a scraping type cut. It's slow cutting and the reamers get hot in use so I don't rough many without letting the reamer cool. I clean up the surfaces with 00 cut half round files. Even as slow as the reamer cuts, it's the fastest method I've found. The reamers were made from 1 1/2" O-1 drill rod. I can't really say how eccentric they are because the eccentricity was hand ground by eye, going slowly until I had reamers that worked well.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    South Coastal Massachusetts
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    6,824
    From the "Musings from Big Pink" responses;

    *Bob Rozaieski
    Jan 28, 2011 05:43 AM

    *Nope. Same experience. All the straight rabbets I've tried were easier to fence by hand to sink the rabbet.
    *They are hard to find in the wild though. I'm looking but they don't turn up nearly as often as skews, and usually not in good condition.

    I take the advice of both Bob and Matt seriously. We should all defer to Mr. Williams, the dean of side escapement hand planes, today.
    I love the way Big Dogs visit this forum.

    I found, in practice, that I was wandering around with a straight rabbet trying to stay on line. Either a heavy score line or Snipe's bill were necessary to get started.

    A straight rabbet wants to cut straight. A skewed rabbet will be drawn in the direction pointed by the leading edge.
    I'm looking for a moving fillister with a skewed blade to act as a rabbet plane. I just don't have enough shop time
    to learn how to properly handle the unfenced versions.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    College Station, Texas
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    305
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Koepke View Post
    For shooting use I think the traditional method has been for the skew to be so the top of the blade hits the work piece first.

    This will have the effect of pushing down on the work and thus holding it more securely.

    Of course if you have a left and a right hand skew you can make a double sided shooting board that is handy for shooting miters.

    jtk
    This would make sense to me, especially because angled shooting boards tend to have the slight skew effect produce a downward force on the board being planed.

    Bob

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Columbus, Ohio, USA
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    3,441
    Quote Originally Posted by James Taglienti View Post
    I never understood how that worked can you explain it? I just dont get how toe cutting angle is less
    Two equations are frequently found in print and Mr. Hock was wondering which was correct and which was wrong, so, I created a paper that at least shows the math (complete with pictures, drawing, and arrows) that demonstrates this if you are interested.

    I did silly things like take a piece of 2x4 to act as the plane and then sent it through a table saw to show the angles and such. Not sure what I was thinking.... Must have had too much time on my hands. I even enlisted a super smart Physicist who pretty much never gets this stuff wrong to check my math and he came up with an even more elegant solution.

  6. #21
    Thanks for the information, Larry. Sorry for the delayed response, but I've been away from the forum for a few days.

    I guess it's almost always the case that ideas that seem too simple probably won't work, haha. I didn't really think of the sharpness of the sides of a float being a problem. I wonder, though, if using the blunt chisel technique (I forget who came up with that) would work. Have you ever tried taking a triangular file, and grinding the front 90 degrees and scrape down the skew mortise? It would take a little while, but I'd think it might be a pretty safe way of reaching the angle desired.

    Joe

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Sebastopol, California
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    2,319
    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Vandiver View Post
    The moral to this story is to not walk straight up the hill, if you can avoid it.
    Especially not barefoot in a snowstorm while carrying your brother on your back. And, if you must, just don't do it both ways.

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