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Thread: Marking tools?

  1. #1
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    Marking tools?

    I am in the marked for two marking tools. I have combination & engineers squares, marking knives, awls, sliding bevels... I am looking for something to mark dovetails and something to mark mortises and tenons. Somehow what I had has grown legs. I hope to find out what others have learned to like to use for this work and why.

    For M&Ts I like the Veritas Wheel Marking Gauges. I am not sure which one. They have one with two posts even! Do I need a scale on it, or will I mostly be copying? How about two posts or maybe just two wheels on one post?

    I have Kinsports video on making dovetails. Of course he uses a clear plastic marking gauge that is special made. Do I need to be able to mark different slopes? Veritas makes similar metal markers in 1:6 (softwood) & 1:8 (hardwood) & 14 degrees (for thin stock?).

  2. #2
    You definitely don't need a scale on it, and I question how valuable the two wheel ones are. I guess if you have a need for multiple settings, but in that case I'd probably just buy multiple gauges. I like keeping thing simple. As far as marking the angle, these are too simple to make to justify buying one. I bought some a while back and I never use them...which makes me feel even dumber for having bought it. Best would be just to eyeball the angles. Makes for a more interesting look when everything's not exactly perfectly the same anyhow, but after a bit you'll be surprised just how repeatably you saw the same angle.

    Having the lines and waste at first is useful for your own situational awareness, but you don't need a marking gauge for that....just some scribbles with a pencil will do. If you really want a gauge, it need be no more complex than a small, straight piece of wood (maybe 1/2" wide by 1 1/2" long by 3/16" thick) with a little "fence" glued onto it at the proper slope. The fence goes up against the edge of the wood, and you mark along the edge. If you want to get more fancy, make the fence 1 1/2" long and 1/2" thick. Then the little fence will act as your 90 degree perpendicular marker for the straight edge of the cut. Now put another angled piece on the other side, and you have a right and left marker that took 5 minutes to make.
    Last edited by John Coloccia; 03-02-2012 at 9:29 AM.

  3. #3
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    I made a few dovetail gauges from some scrap 1/8" x 1.5" angle aluminum that I had. A foot of that stuff is enough to make half a dozen marking gauges (dovetails, box joints, etc.) I just ground the sides to the angle I wanted on the grinder, then polished them up. I've been wanting to buy a set of stamps so I could stamp the angles... one of those projects I'll get around to eventually.

  4. #4
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    I have the LV Micro-Adjust Gauge, without graduations. In retrospect, I should have just bought the standard one, as I never use the micro-adjust feature, but YMMV. Certainly I don't miss the graduations.

    I've also purchased their Dual Marking Gauge with two rods for mortise and tenons, but I haven't used it yet. I have previously used the traditional rosewood-and-brass style with the little pins. I hated it; but again, that's just me.

    I have a couple dovetail squares by Marples that I bought from TFWW. They're about $10 each and work fine. One is 1:6, the other 1:8. If I were to choose some other angle, I would probably just make one.

  5. #5
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    I have the standard LV gauge (with no micro adjust) and imperial markings. I quite like it, but it is prone to slipping a bit so you'll want to rough up the rod with a bit of sandpaper. As others have said I find the graduations to be fairly useless. If I need a specific distance it's more accurate to hold the end of a ruler up against the fence and gauge my distance on the ruler. I like having the angle markers - I have the pack that comes with the two little metal one 1:8 and 1:6. I like having both, not for hardwood vs softwood, but depneding on how the angle looks in relation to the thickness of board/depth of tails. Mine aren't full saddle squares though, they just kinda hook on the end of the board so I still need to use a try square to carry my line all the way across the end grain. I will probably by a pair of saddle squares some day because I'm lazy. Also I find 1:6 plenty steep enough for thin stock and have no desire for the 14 degree, but if you like the look of steeper slope dovetails then by all means get the 14 degree too.

    Oh yeah one more thing. I think the two double one would be handy for marking mortises and would like to have it someday, but it's certainly not a necessity so if money is a consideration I'd wait on that.
    Last edited by Chris Griggs; 03-02-2012 at 10:57 AM.

  6. #6
    I have the LV marking gauges and the Titemark gauges. I use the micro adjust all the time and highly recommend it.

    For marking dovetails, you can make a gauge fairly easily. If you want to buy one, LV sells a good one.

    Mike
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  7. #7
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    Good input guys thanks!

    I wonder if the micro adjuster would help prevent the gauge from slipping, seems like it would have to just to function.

    I just found out Highland Woodworking has a class on sharpening hand saws tomorrow, so I will have the opportunity to check some of these items out before & after class.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Holbrook View Post
    ...I wonder if the micro adjuster would help prevent the gauge from slipping, seems like it would have to just to function...
    Although I don't use the micro-adjust, I do tighten down the brass ring in addition to the smaller set screw, just to make sure it stays in place. Maybe that's worth a few extra bucks to know it's not going to slip.

  9. #9
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    I made to wooden dovetail tools like Rob Cosman's. I've had them for years. IMO, they are the best I've used. I think LN has them in metal.

    IMO, they are the best I've used.

  10. #10
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    I find the titemark very accurate and easy to use, you can get both fixed width and adjustable width mortise/tenon wheels. For a dovetail marker, Paul Sellers shows how to make one from wood in his blog, and I think on YouTube as well.

  11. #11
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    I've used several of the other makes, bought I purchased the Titemark. As Bill has already said, it is very accurate and easy to use. The adjustment feature works great. The Titemark is a bit more cash outlay, but in years to come, you won't think of the extra cost as it is that good.
    If the thunder don't get you, the lightning will.

  12. #12
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    I have LV gauges w/o micro adjust - I don't know if I'm supposed to or not, but I adjust "micro adjust" them the same way I micro-adjust everything else - small hammer taps in the appropriate place, or tapping things against the bench . . . .

  13. #13
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    Made it to Higgland Woodworking today for the saw sharpening class. Chris Black did the class and he just happens to make dovetail markers. He makes them like the ones Kingsport uses in his video. They are clear plastic, allowing the user to see through them to marks below. I picked up a set.

    I also picked up the Veritas marking gage. I got one with the micro adjuster but no graduations.

  14. #14
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    They are clear plastic, allowing the user to see through them to marks below. I picked up a set.

    I also picked up the Veritas marking gage. I got one with the micro adjuster but no graduations.
    My response is after the fact. What you have bought are good useable tools.

    I have both the Veritas marking gage and the Titemark gauge. I tend to use the Titemark as my go to marking gauge. While using it today to set a few different marks I even had thoughts of buying a second one. I already have more marking gauges than I use, but the Titemark is good enough to have me thinking about selling off my others.

    One that I would not sell is my mortise marking gauge. Even with pins I like that it can be set exactly to the chisel for chopping a mortise.


    I have a couple dovetail squares by Marples that I bought from TFWW. They're about $10 each and work fine. One is 1:6, the other 1:8. If I were to choose some other angle, I would probably just make one.
    Wow, I have the same set bought from a lumber yard in Berkeley, CA. I use them all the time for laying out dovetails.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Holbrook View Post
    Made it to Higgland Woodworking today for the saw sharpening class. Chris Black did the class and he just happens to make dovetail markers. He makes them like the ones Kingsport uses in his video. They are clear plastic, allowing the user to see through them to marks below. I picked up a set.

    I also picked up the Veritas marking gage. I got one with the micro adjuster but no graduations.
    Cool - sounds like you had a good day.

    BTW, did you get your HNT Gordon blades. How do they seem?

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