I do want to seal it. but it cannot be shiny at all. I etched the one layer veneer after gluing it to 1/8 ABS with 5200. I might use another layer of veneer with the grain at 90 degrees under the top layer. That would give me a reasonable depth to work with when I scribe the top layer...maybe not ...
Do I even have to seal teak?
How much exposure are we talking about until it gets its grayish color?
As I've written - the treatment of teak decks has traditionally been scrubbing with salt water. We treat the teak on our little boat and some of our outdoor furniture with a washing and a few coats of teal oil every spring but by the following spring, as a result of natural weathering, the gray begins to emerge blended in with the teak brown. I think a few seasons and silvery gray will be the dominant color. The salt water wash and scrub can only accelerate the process.
Ok here goes for a few pictures early during construction...and some external parts I molded...Ah It woukldnt let me load but 1 picture. It said the rest were too large??
This one is the shaft alleys under turret 4 right after "plating over".
Last edited by Matt Chaiser; 03-11-2012 at 10:32 PM.
Reason: Forgot description
Actually I like the Idea of two decks. Since the main deck as well as the 01 deck were teak it would all have to be removable. Some of the deck was going to be permanent, but that wouldnt be hard too change. Really the hardest part is concealing the seams where removable meets fixed deck areas. The whole forward deck area could come off in one piece except for an area between the forward turrets, which is permanent. Same for both after turrets and the quarterdeck. Amidships there is a large number of antiaircraft galleries and ammo boxes to conceal the seams. Is teak oil specific for teak, and does it seal like tung oil? Would it also be low gloss?