Table Saw Dsiconnect

[Van Huskey]

I don't think that type is readily available around here, at least at places that are open hours that working folks can get to them. Probably a regional thing.

We probably have more A/C parts around here...

Not the one I have but the same kinda thing and like I said cheap.

http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical-...&storeId=10051

[George Bregar]

Thanks all!

[Sam Layton]

I use the kind that Matt recommended. It is a disconnect. I would not trust a switch.

Sam

[Matt McColley]

I am not a licensed electrician, nor do I play one on T.V. :^)

But my understanding (having taken notes for several OSHA walkthroughs) is that you are supposed to be able to lock a disconnect in the open position, at the location of the machine, when work is being done on the machine or if the machine has an electrical fault (i.e. you don't have to run accross the shop to the breaker panel and then figure out which panel, and which breaker).

They do make locking devices for switches that look like clamps, but a disconnect (as show in the lowes link) is much easier to do with a small padlock.

I know this OSHA stuff doesn't speak volumes to home hobby shop guys.... but for $15, I'd get the knife switch.

The A/C disconnect with the breaker will accomplish the same thing... and they also make locking devices for breakers... but the breaker is not included and will cost you another ~$35.

[Ron Natalie]

Either the toggle switch mentioned or a AC-style pull out disconnect, or a specific disconnect will work. As stated you're not using this to start the motor, it's a maintenance disconnect. Do what fits and is convenient. The disconnect needs to be rated at 115% of the full load current of your motor. A single phase 3HP 230V motor should work fine on a 20A disconnect (17A x 115% = 19.55A).

[Van Huskey]

Just for reference the box I showed is $12 and has everything you need except the romex connector. So a $13 solution. It has a lockable metal box that is big enough to make it easy to work in, can handle 60 amps so anything you are likely to have in a hobby shop. I use them whereever I need a machine disconnect. I guess what I am asking is does anyone know of a cheaper solution. It seems even the "standard" switch route will run you near if not over $13 and not be nearly as robust and not as sfae, but certainly safe enough if it is not mounted too close to accidentally switch.

[Larry Browning]

The problem I am having now is where and how to mount it to where it is convenient to get to. The mag switch is mounted to a plate that is attached to the bottom of the front rail. I might want to do something like that, but then again. Maybe I could mount it to the saw cabinet. Just not sure what to do.
BTW I have a Grizzly G1023L.

[George Bregar]

I went with the disconnect, but a non-fusable one. No need for a fuse. A few more bucks than a switch/single gang/plate but in the future I may want to lock it "off" if grandkids become an issue.

I plan to mount it right to the cabinet of the unisaw out of the way. Two sheet metal screws...done. Liguid-tight from the conduit stubbed up through the slab to the disconnect.

[Ron Natalie]

But my understanding (having taken notes for several OSHA walkthroughs) is that you are supposed to be able to lock a disconnect in the open position, at the location of the machine, when work is being done on the machine or if the machine has an electrical fault (i.e. you don't have to run accross the shop to the breaker panel and then figure out which panel, and which breaker).

Either it has to be visible from the point of view of the guy servicing the machine OR it needs some sort of lock (as far as the NEC goes, don't know about OSHA).

[Michael W. Clark]

I have a disconnect on my Grizzly 1023 TS before the static phase converter. I have a 5HP, 3ph motor. I mounted both the phase converter and disconnect on the wall at the end of the right wing, then ran SO chord over to the mag switch on the saw. I open the disconnect when I leave the shop, during blade changes, or my daughter is in the shop "prouling" around. I have a knee board mounted to the fence rail to contact the mag switch stop button and turn off the saw without taking my hand away from the boards. The disconnect is spring loaded to prevent arcing, you would have to really work at it to "accidentally" throw the switch, possibly fall on it or drop a board on it?. Besides, with a mag switch, the saw willl not start by merely closing the disconnect (or restoring power to the mag switch). If I understand correctly, that is one of the bennefits of a mag switch.

[Rollie Meyers]

I have always used a A/C disconnect, I prefer the one with a breaker type switch inside but it NOT a breaker. Because they are code required they are available everywhere and inexpensive. The "breaker" type I use does require you to open the box but you don't have to pull anything, just flip the switch. And unlike the lever outside or the standard switch you or anything else can't just bump into it and turn the power on, or off. The other positive is it comes with the box and it is assembled all you need is the romex connector (the thing that clamps the wire going into the box, who's name escapes me).

What you are writing about is called a "Molded Case Switch", looks like a circuit breaker but is just a switch.

[Mike De Luca]

Just to be clear, I want to simply disconnect power when changing the blade. I will use the magnetic switch on the unisaw for operation. The item you listed is rated for 2HP I believe also, right?

Sounds like you are doing what I did. I wanted a switch mounted on the wall that I could turn off while I was away and a youngster might enter the shop. There is no way they would know to turn on the switch AND engage the magnetic switch. I also wanted a double layer of protection while changing the blade. In this instance, I think a two pole, 20 Amp switch is more than adequate.

I've used this system in two homes over the past 25 years without incident.

[Larry Browning]

The one I linked to in the thread Larry linked to is a better choice in my opinion than an AC disconnect. An AC disconnect requires you to open the cover and pull out a piece. The lever style is easy and very visual as to whether you remembered to switch it or not. And they are only around $20 at Lowes.

I also found this one at Lowes for $15.

If your saw has protection for the motor built in, and it would unless you or a previou owner have changed the electrical and did away with it, and you've got a proper breaker on the circuit, the disconnect doesn't really need to protect anything so you can just put the biggest fuses that will fit in it. I've got 30A fuses in mine and its a 20A circuit. If I ever overload the motor, the starter will trip to protect the motor and if I ever overload the circuit the breaker back in the panel will trip. Or maybe if there's ever a short the fuses might blow before the breaker depending on which acts quicker.

I really had trouble finding anything I liked better than this one.. I even tried at an electrical supply house, but they did not have anything that was small enough for my needs.
I was able to mount it directly to the cabinet. I cut the power cable and still had plenty length for the plug. By the time it was all finished, I had spent around $23. You have to buy fuses and also some box cable connectors. I ended up buying 20amp time delay fuses. Grizzly recommends a 20 amp breaker and I have it on a 30amp, so I decided to go with the 20amp fuses. If these give me trouble I can always go to the 30s.

I am already feeling safer about blade changes!