Trim carpenter advice for flooring transitions

[whit richardson]

I'm installing a floating cork floor and have oak stained transitions for the cork to carpet. I have one very long transition (15ft) that will require three pieces. I'm thinking I should cut scarf joints to keep things looking nice. So should they be just vertical scarf joints or should I consider an angled joint (top to bottom angle)?

Also where the transition will meet the wall and the baseboard is transitioning from baseboard and quarter round on the floor to only baseboard on carpet what is a good way to end the quarter round? chamber/bevel it to meet the transition lip or notch the transition into the quarter round and then cut the quarter round back at a 45 into the base?

thanks for ideas tips from the creekers.

[Sam Murdoch]

Honestly if I were doing this I would butt the joints with dominos glued in or some other loose tenon. I think scarf joints are problematic as they leave a feather edge at the top and in a floor situation a feather edged is doomed. Get the perfect flush top alignment with the domino/tenon and the glue will hold the rest. Maybe pocket screw from the underside if you can, for added rigidity.

Return the quarter round on itself at the end of the base before the carpet begins.

My 2¢

Sam

[Craig Michael]

With respect to the pieces for the transition. I would skip the scarf joint and do a straight joint and as sam said, reinforce with domino's, dowels or pocket screws. You really don't need to since the would will not expand and contract much lengthwise, but it's a simple extra step.

For the shoe molding, 45 it back into the wall/baseboard. There isn't really a hard and fast rule in most trim work, it's basically what works and looks the best. Google shoe molding terms like ending, termination, return, etc. and see the images and what would work the best for your situation. It's hard to tell exactly how yours looks without a picture.

[whit richardson]

Thanks. I have a Kreg kit so I can do pocket screws, don't have any Festools. The wood is red oak stained to suit your flooring choice about 3/4" thickness.

[Jason Roehl]

I agree with the straight cuts on the flooring transitions.

I buck the trend a bit on the quarter round/shoe mold. I know that a mitered return is the generally accepted and workman-like way of doing it, but it's a pain in the rear to do, and the little return pieces don't stay put well long term. I would either round off the end to make it LOOK returned (i.e., match the profile on the end one way or another) if it's painted, or I would do a "cowboy cut" if it's stained or clear-finished. A "cowboy cut" is a 45º chamfer that leaves a portion of the straight end cut on the piece. I usually try to make the thickness of the straight section the same as the difference in thickness of the base board and casing. I hope that's a clear enough description...

[whit richardson]

thanks for the other input. My trim throughout the whole house is white (thank you so very much) no staining.