Wall cabinet construction question - 1/2" plywood back instead of nailers?

[scott vroom]

I'm tired of messing around with nailers on wall cabinets and am considering going with a 1/2" plywood back instead, just driving the screws through the plywood in lieu of the nailers. Anyone try this? I'm guessing that 1/2" plywood is sufficiently strong. I could go with 3/4" backs but that's added weight and cost that I'd like to avoid.

I've been making cabinets for several years and it seems that every new project brings different ideas and methods; I find myself spending lots of time rethinking how I build cabinets. It would be nice to settle on one method - my productivity would definately benefit

Thx

[Jamie Buxton]

I like putting the nailer on the outside of the cabinet -- on the top. It doesn't show, and the screws going through it don't either. If I happen to miss a stud with a screw, no problem, just drill another hole.

[Sam Murdoch]

I use 1/2" backs that are attached to 3/4" plywood box parts. The backs are cut to be the exact with and hight to flush with the bottom of the bottom and the top of the top. This is an excellent way to square up your cabinet and insure that the sides are straight. I attach the backs with 1-1/4" crown staples just to get the back on square and in place then I finish up with 1-1/4" screws. Glue is not effective and unneeded as my backs are typically prefin maple. I sometimes screw through the backs directly and sometimes use cabinet hangers depending on my mood and field conditions.

As I nearly always have finished sides in addition to the prefin boxes I can get away with simply flushing out the backs to the sides. When that system is not acceptable I rabbet the 3/4" sides and tops and bottoms 3/8" x the thickness of the back to receive the full back. Attaching the backs in this case requires great care so as not to blow your screws or staples through the finished insides, nonetheless I attach in the same manner.

[Richard McComas]

I use 3/4 backs, I only have to stock one thickness of plywood. The top and deck of the cabinet are cut the thickness of the back narrower than the sides/ends. I screw through the sides and the back. Applied end panels cover screws.

[Jeff Monson]

I use 1/2" backs set into a rabbet on 3/4" sides, 3/4" top and bottom, no nailer strip.

[Peter Quinn]

I use 1/2 inch backs just like Sam does above, flush or the case sides,matched on then screwed. It is definetly strong enough to half any cabinets up, maybe stronger than 1/4 inch backs with a nailer IMO.

[Jeff Duncan]

I use both 1/2" or 3/4" backs as I never thought making an extra part(s) was cost effective. FWIW if your buying your plywood wholesale 1/2" is not usually much cheaper than 3/4"....maybe a couple dollars? And that money is easily recouped by using the leftover pieces of 3/4" for other cabinet parts. I've thrown away more 1/2" ply than I care to think about as it was useless for anything else I manufacture.

good luck,
JeffD

[Steve Griffin]

1/4" backs for me.

-keeps cabinets lighter
-less expensive--15-30 bucks a sheet depending on material.
-1/2" x 4" CDX nailers are cheap and fast to apply.
-shimming is easier in many cases. Especially if there is a big bulge in the wall right in the middle of the cabinet.

[Todd Burch]

I think I'm going to go Jamie's route for my dad's kitchen upper cabinets. I've done that before and there's no chance of spoiling the interior of the cabinet that way. Therefore, 1/4" backs with nailers at the top and bottom, exterior to the cabinet. Sold.

[Zach Callum]

Nailers at the top is ok, if you can easily access the top of the cabinet during instal.

[Mark W Pugh]

I use 3/4 backs, I only have to stock one thickness of plywood. The top and deck of the cabinet are cut the thickness of the back narrower than the sides/ends. I screw through the sides and the back. Applied end panels cover screws.

Is the rabbit joints really necessary? Why not just butt joint it to the back?? Just starting my quest to build cabinets and trying to figure out how I will do it. Thanks!!

[Paul Incognito]

I've been using 1/2" for cabinet backs for a while now. I recess my backs about 1/8" and only rabbet the sides.
While jeff and Steve both bring up excellent points, 3/4" backs just seem like overkill to me and I wouldn't want to deal with the extra weight when hanging wall cabs. I haven't run into a problem with a bulging wall yet that I couldn't work around.
Paul

[Todd Burch]

I haven't run into a problem with a bulging wall yet that I couldn't work around.
Paul

Amen brother.

[joe milana]

I've been using 1/2" for cabinet backs for a while now. I recess my backs about 1/8" and only rabbet the sides.
While jeff and Steve both bring up excellent points, 3/4" backs just seem like overkill to me and I wouldn't want to deal with the extra weight when hanging wall cabs. I haven't run into a problem with a bulging wall yet that I couldn't work around.
Paul

An 1/8" recess has always worked best for me too. Just be gentle driving the cabinet screws as to not peel the back off. Oh, and a slight back bevel on the face frames makes for a nice tight alignment as well.

[scott vroom]

1/4" backs for me.

-keeps cabinets lighter
-less expensive--15-30 bucks a sheet depending on material.
-1/2" x 4" CDX nailers are cheap and fast to apply.
-shimming is easier in many cases. Especially if there is a big bulge in the wall right in the middle of the cabinet.

Steve, how do you attach the 1/4" and the nailers?