Coffee table design critiques welcome

[Matt Day]

All,

Attached is my latest coffee table draft. My wife and I designed this to fit into our modern designed living room which is a black/grey/red theme. 95% of the table will be dyed black, with possibly some red accents. Wood will be soft maple.

A couple design points to mention:
It is a bit taller than normal (22" to top), and the top overhangs about 3". The reason for these two things is that we normally eat dinner on our coffee table, and the height will help with knee room, same with the increased overhang.
The side facing the couch has two open shelves, with a drawer in the middle. The open shelves are for our laptops which we normally keep on the coffee table. I don't have any cable management plans built in because we sometimes charge the computers while using them, and sometimes while stored. Tying the chargers down inside the table might be an issue. The drawer is for remotes, small note pads, etc.

With only a 3 sided apron to support the top, I wasn't sure if I needed to have a continuous support like I show at the top of the drawer. I think I don't need it since the top is going to be solid, and shouldn't sag like a veneered MDF panel would tend to. What do you all think?

Legs will be 1 3/4" square with pinned mortise and tenon joints. The bottom is purely aesthetic, not for a shelf or anything.

I know this design is not traditional and might not be to everyone's taste, but my wife and I like it and I'm building it for us. Actually, it really just matters that my wife likes it, and good thing I like it too!

Thanks in advance for everyones help and input!

[Brian Kent]

It looks like a lot of fun, practicality, and originality. My only question is the solidity of that center area, since it just begs to be used as a footrest. I THINK it will be solid enough but I'm not certain. If it is very solid, it will be a good illusion of delicacy.

[Mark Kornell]

How thick will the top be?

You don't need that center horizontal piece - doesn't add anything structural, unless your top is fairly thin.

I'm going to suggest a different approach to the legs/pseudo-shelf. With you sitting in front of the table, you will be kicking the horizontal "feet" constantly. Consider moving those diagonal members up, so that they extend from the legs in the same plane as the pseudo-shelf, and then do away with the short vertical piece.

How deep do you plan on making the drawer and laptop shelves? If I understand your drawing, you have the ability to make them up to about 18" deep. Consider putting an artificial back to limit their depth to 12" or so - measure your laptop. Too deep and you will lose things :-) (And with an artificial back there's a hidden compartment opportunity)

[Matt Day]

Thanks for the comments Brian! I know what you mean about the footrest. I'll think about adding short pieces to connect the short vertical legs, to complete the "apron" and add some more rigidity.

Mark - Top will be about 3/4" after I finish jointing/planing my 4/4.
I hear what you're saying about the feet being in the way. I'll consider moving it around but my first thought is it's going to really change the look.
I planned to have the shelves and drawer being full depth, but I hear what you're saying about things getting lost.


Thinking about the top attachment some more, it's going to be really tough to tighten down on the screws for the z-clips because of the shelves. Having only 2 1/4" of clear makes it tough to get a stubby screwdriver to drive a philips or flat screw. If I don't use the support at the drawer space (the one Mark says I don't), I can easily install some z-clips in the drawer space. I suppose at the shelves I can use some square head screws and use a ratchet to tighten them down. Agreed?

[Jeff Bartley]

Matt,
To attach the top you could also dill three holes in the side aprons with a forstner bit then use a pan-type screw and washer. You'll just have to elongate the outer holes to allow wood movement.
What type of joint were you planning for the junction between the 'footrest' and the shorter vertical legs? This could be the weak link as those bridle-joints will be plenty strong. Jeff

[Matt Day]

Good idea on the elongated holes Jeff, I might do that. Similar to a breadboard end.

My current thinking was to use dowels at the joints you mentioned, but I haven't decided for sure yet. I might change it a bit and use a bird's mouth with dowels or a floating tenon. Let me know if you have any suggestions, but that's next on my list is to determine how to make that joint.

[Pat Barry]

Matt, I like the proportions of the top and the apron and the legs and the originality. I think the base is just too complicated and distracting though. If it were me, at this point I would be looking to simplify that portion. I say let this sit for a few days and then go back to it with a fresh perspective. Maybe a more traditional shelf attachment - straight across to the legs without the up and down portions?

[George Gyulatyan]

My current thinking was to use dowels at the joints you mentioned, but I haven't decided for sure yet. I might change it a bit and use a bird's mouth with dowels or a floating tenon. Let me know if you have any suggestions, but that's next on my list is to determine how to make that joint.

I'd probably move the horizontal pieces of the "footrest" towards the center of the short legs rather than the way you have them pictured to one side, and use bridle-joints similar to those used on the hayrake table in the latest issue of FWW. This would also tie it in nicely with the rest of the joints.

Cool design!