Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 26

Thread: 3HP table saw vs 5HP

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Sonoma, California
    Posts
    30

    3HP table saw vs 5HP

    I’m looking at a new table saw and my current delta is old and 2 hp, originally was thinking about a 3 hp unit because I only have a 20amp breaker for the table saw. Is there an real difference between the 3 and 5 hp saws, I probably can upgrade to a 30 amp breaker. I do saw some four quarter hardwoods on occasion.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
    Posts
    11,247
    Hi Merrill, for 4/4 hardwood 1 HP is plenty with a good 24 tooth rip blade.

    You will never need more than 3 HP in a cabinet saw unless it has a feeder and you're operating it for hours on end............regards, Rod.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Sonoma, California
    Posts
    30
    Thanks Rod, that is what I thought but good info.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Marietta, GA
    Posts
    275
    I agree with Rod. I'll also add that a quality, sharp, and clean blade is just as important as horsepower on thinner stock like 4/4.

    How did your old saw do with 4/4 hardwood?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Moscow, Idaho
    Posts
    294
    I have a 3hp Unisaw and have never felt that I needed more power, even when cutting 8/4 hardwoods. I don't think you would need a 5hp saw unless you were cutting thick hardwoods for hours at a time.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Pottstown PA
    Posts
    972
    I used a 3hp griz 1023 for over 10 years and it did all i asked. It is my opinion for 4/4 and the like and not in a production environment you would be fine with a 3hp. I found that when I was making beds and cutting a lot of pieces, at thicker pieces 6/4 and especially when you jumped to 8/4 and greater, the 5hp really comes into play.

    When I was cutting the bedposts and ripping them down, even with a good blade, she struggled to keep up and i had to slow down to get it done.

    I upgraded to my forever saw and got the 5hp industrial sawstop. It is a difference. I find that now its just smoother easier and faster. Even at 12 or 16 quarter, its just a dream.

    Do I have to have 5hp, no. But it sure is nice if you can get the 5hp do it!

    Just my two cents worth that and a buck fifty will get you a cup of coffee.

    Cheers!

  7. The only time I could imagine a 5hp saw would have an advantage over my 3hp saw (General 350) is if I was ripping 8 quarter red oak 8 hours a day or more, using a power feeder.

    If we are talking a European combination machine (Hammer or Felder and the like), the HP might have some benefit, but for a stand alone table saw in a regular shop.... nope.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Sonoma, California
    Posts
    30
    It is a Delta 10 inch tilting arbor purchased in 1991. Honestly anything would be better and it is 2 hp, but worked for all these years.

  9. #9
    Other than if it took 12" blades, I don't see any practical advantage.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,685
    Merrill, I suspect that the 3hp cabinet saw of your choice is going to fulfill your needs unless you intend to rip REALLY thick stock constantly, day-in, day-out. Big blades and thick stock are what drive folks to the bigger motors/higher power. And moving up to 5hp would require more than changing the breaker unless that circuit was wired with 10 gage as a hedge for needing 30 amp capacity at some point.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  11. #11
    I sometimes use my table saw to rip stickers and cut turning blanks, and with 3hp I could feel it bogging sometimes.

    So when I upgraded I went with the 5hp. It wasn't much more expensive.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Silicon Valley, CA
    Posts
    989
    I'm surprised you're having issues with 4/4 hardwoods. Might be worthwhile checking your blade or looking for some binding with the fence.

    My 1 3/4hp table saw with Forrest Woodworker II thin-kerf 30-tooth blade. Fine with 4/4; can have issue with 8/4 hardwoods. (I do have a lower tooth-count rip blade, but it is full kerf, and I don't use it very much; doesn't seem to do better than the 30T combination blade)

    When I upgrade saws, I would expect to target a 3hp model.

    I would go 5hp if you have a 12" blade, think you're going to do deep, single-pass dadoes, or regularly rip boards thicker than 8/4.

    But, that said, my minimax 16 came with a bigger motor than I really need for what I've been doing, but I sure had a goofy grin on my face when I was putting it through its paces... so I'd understand getting a 5hp just to have that grin.

    Matt

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Tucson, Arizona
    Posts
    161
    Other than cost of upgrade and breaker there is not much downside to having more power. I have a 5hp SawStop and there have been times I was glad to have the extra power. Go for the 5hp if the price is in the budget.

  14. #14
    I have a 3HP SawStop and never had a situation where I felt the saw was underpowered.

    Mike
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Central WI
    Posts
    5,666
    5 hp or larger is appropriate for a 12-16" saw due to greater depth of cut and much heavier internal build than what is usually found on a 10" saw. If I felt I needed the full 5 hp I'd also want the heavier build. Dave

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •