Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: Miter bar question

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Grand Island, Ne.
    Posts
    235

    Miter bar question

    I'm finally getting ready to build a cross cut sled. I want to use an aluminum miter bar. Is there any major differences/advantages between a solid bar like Rockler's and Incra's "U" channel "miter slider"? Since my General TS has a T type miter slot, would there be any advantage to go with a steel one, milled like my miter gauge so I can put a washer on it to keep the sled from tipping? Thanks. Greg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Camas, Wa
    Posts
    3,853
    The Incra would be easier to adjust then the Rockler ones due to the adjustment being on top of the bar. drill a hole in the sled and you have access to them. The Rockler ones have adjustments on the sides which would require them to be puled out of the slot.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    323
    Also, in theory, the Incra spreads out evenly on both sides to take out slop, therefore I feel that this help keep you sled from going out of square.

    The Rockler has plastic screws that wear and could possible cause you sled to cock to one side or the other.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    624
    I wouldnt use washers on it. It will make it difficult to take on and off the table. It will not tip unless you really over slide it one way or another. Mine is quite heavy, made with 3/4" plywood and 2" thick fences.

    Dan

  5. #5
    Actually, miter bars that adjust on only one side are more likely to hold their setting. Since one side of the bar always rides directly on the side of the slot, you know your bar is parallel to the slot.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    NW Indiana
    Posts
    3,078
    I have had very good experience using the Incra miter slider. The adjustments work well to give a snug fit that still slides. I have tried the Rockler bar and I can not as good a fit. I think that both will work well and it is mainly a matter of which you prefer and which works best for you.

  7. #7
    I use the Incra, I have tried wood, steel and plastic and I like the Incra the best. The fit well and they are light which is a plus in that sleds are some what heavy.

    The screw holes are very critical and must be drilled in the correct place or your slider will not run well in the slot.

    Here is the way I put mine on and it worked very well and both slide run correctly.

    Make sure your table saw fence is set up correctly to the blade of the saw.
    Cut the base for the sled.
    Now set the base on the table saw where you want it to set in relation to the blade.
    Move the fence over until it just touches the right side of the base and lock it down.
    Remove the base and place your slides in the slots and see if they fit side to side and adjust if needed for a good fit.
    Now place some shims under them so the are just above the table saw top, I just use paper.
    Place some turner tape on the slides and peel the backing off the tape.
    Now place the base against the ripe fence and lower it down until it rest on the slides and press it down.
    Now pull it out, turn it over and use a small drill bit and drill the holes, make sure the bit is small enough that it will not damage the threads on the slides, you can also use a transfer punch if you have one.
    Now remove the slides and drill the holes larger for clearance, counter sink the tops and attach the slides.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    22,492
    Blog Entries
    1
    The primary challenge with miter bars seems to be the slots, not the bars . This makes it the bar's job to try to compensate for the slots irregularity. I have wood, UHMW and the Incra miter slider (the u-channel format not the Glidelock type like on my miter gauges). The miter sliders that I have only has two adjustment points. I found that for things with a longer throw like a sled, only one adjustment point would be engaged at the start of an operation and both became engaged as you continued the motion. This caused me some difficulty with small shifts as the expansion points were in play and not in play; offsetting their positions helped a bit.

    For things like tenoning jigs or coping jigs where most of the bar is captured by the miter slot during the entire operation they work great and I moved them to these jigs. I replaced the ones on my sled with strips of QSWO which are working fine. I live in an area where humidity swings are pretty narrow so I do not suffer from the movement issues that wooden runners can make in other areas. You will have to take your climate into account. The UHMW works fine but can be a bit fussy to mount. I cut then a bit oversize, used counterbored panhead screws and washers every 3 or 4 inches (UHMW is a bit flexible if not tightly controlled, it also bulges under too much torque) and used a card scraper to tune the fit. The best solution for you will depend a bit on your slots, your fixtures and your weather
    Last edited by glenn bradley; 04-08-2012 at 9:34 PM.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •