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Thread: What do I really need to get started?

  1. #16
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    Thank you for that information Michelle............and btw, good mornin'! I look forward to getting started, once I get Malcolm's book here and get it read...........I have a few boards laying around that are cutoffs from other work.........mostly red oak, but I also have a bit of mahogany, walnut, and of course pine............I will get some melamine for my glue-up surface, as it can be wiped clean easily [thanks Curt!] ...........I think I am going to get addicted with this, Michelle!
    Remember, in a moments time, everything can change!

    Vision - not just seeing what is, but seeing what can be!

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  2. #17
    malcolm's book is good, but ask your local library to get the book I suggested. Malcolm's is , in my opinion, not a beginner's book. Reading both won't hurt. He also has videos if you are flush. Having been addicted to segmenting for decades, i am pleased you'll be suffering the same with me. Misery loves company!!!
    Be the kind of woman that when your feet hit the ground each morning, the devil says, "oh crap she's up!"


    Tolerance is giving every other human being every right that you claim for yourself.

    "What is man without the beasts? If all the beasts are gone, men would die from great loneliness of spirit. For whatever happens to the beasts will happen to man. All things are connected. " Chief Seattle Duwamish Tribe

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charles Drake View Post
    Roger, you might want to put www. segmentedwoodturners.org on your reference list. Very informative. Good luck.

    Charlie
    Did that last evening Charles............might even have to become a member [there's another $25!] but no doubt worth every penny!
    Remember, in a moments time, everything can change!

    Vision - not just seeing what is, but seeing what can be!

    For information on my website, click on my profile or avatar


  4. #19
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    Roger, I'm going to say this as a caution from theory, not from experience. Those with experience can either support my caution, or refute it...

    I would be carelful combining woods of very dissimilar density, like pine and oak, becase it may be difficult to A) get a good clean even cut, B) sand without gouging the soft stuff, and C) "control" the movement of the pieces...during the glue up stages and over time. Not really sure how much C would come into play, but I can imagine A and B could make life a lot more difficult on you.

    Again, not talking out of experience with segmenting, but out experience with woodworking in general and in theory about turning it.
    I drink, therefore I am.

  5. #20
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    Yeah Mike, I will watch about using pine......I just mentioned it because it came to mind as something I have on hand.....segmented should be hardwoods........and kiln dried, from what I see others with experience saying........I may try to air dry some small boards over a year or so, but that will be just to utilize the wood I have that has cracked some........I am not one to waste precious resources.
    Remember, in a moments time, everything can change!

    Vision - not just seeing what is, but seeing what can be!

    For information on my website, click on my profile or avatar


  6. #21
    you can make vessels from pine..just make it all from pine. i've seen it done successfully
    Be the kind of woman that when your feet hit the ground each morning, the devil says, "oh crap she's up!"


    Tolerance is giving every other human being every right that you claim for yourself.

    "What is man without the beasts? If all the beasts are gone, men would die from great loneliness of spirit. For whatever happens to the beasts will happen to man. All things are connected. " Chief Seattle Duwamish Tribe

  7. #22
    Roger, you may already have this information, but I have found this article to be helpful. I often refer to the tables in 3-4, 3-5, and 3-6 and just thought you might find them of use.

    http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/fpl_pdfs/ch03.pdf

    As a flatworker, I am sure you are aware of this, but equilibrium is probably the most important characteristic of which to be aware. The actual moisture content of the wood is only part of the formula for a good glue up. For that reason, even if it is dry, you should store all the wood to be used for a project in the same environment for at least 3-4 weeks and have good air circulation around it - longer if you can.

    As I said, I am sure with your years of experience this is elementary, but it is offered more for the sake of others that may view this thread. Good luck on your diversionary journey!!!

  8. #23
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    John, that is good advice for ANYBODY...regardless of experience. It is easily forgotten, but necessary, info...
    I drink, therefore I am.

  9. #24
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    Great resource John..........I saved that file for future reference, and yes all wood needs to be acclimated properly and if one air dries wood it should be stickered correctly and checked periodically with a moisture meter in several locations.........thanks for the information.

    I don't know if this is a diversion or a detour..........but I am going to give it a try and see what I can do with it among some other things.
    Remember, in a moments time, everything can change!

    Vision - not just seeing what is, but seeing what can be!

    For information on my website, click on my profile or avatar


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