Straightline rips as suggested are fine, if you do joint all instead, use sharp knives, dull ones compress the fibers creating a poor bond.
- Beachside Hank
Straightline rips as suggested are fine, if you do joint all instead, use sharp knives, dull ones compress the fibers creating a poor bond.
- Beachside Hank
I am with the majority of posts; joint one edge, mark with chalk and use a Freud glue line rip. Sometimes I use a couple biscuits on multiple board glue ups just to help with alignment and I switched to Titebond 3 - it seems to have a bit longer working time. Be ready with all your cauls and clamps and work fast.2 piece glue up.jpg What are you making and what kind of wood are you using? - Will
I agree, Norm used to talk about "don't use to much pressure", I think tests since then show, unless you are using hydralic clamps, it is impossible to squeeze the glue out of the joint. I have used all the force I can with pipe clamps many times and never had a problem.
Randy Gazda
Big Sky Country
Hank - How will compressed fibers create a poor bond?
Chris
Surprised that nobody has mentioned a jointer PLANE before now. The flattesurface mating surfaces are, the better. A jointer will always leave a wavy surface due to the way it cuts. The waves may be small but they will be there. A good glue line rip blade will not leave any of those waves,but may leave saw marks instead. Depends on the blade and how well your saw is adjusted. If you take a well tuned and sharp hand plane, however, you can remove any of those marks for the best gluing surface. If you clamp those boards side by side, your board will always remain flat as well
As has already been said, you can't put enough pressure on a hand clamp to squeeze out enough glue to starve the joint.
If plane a slight gap in the center of your joint but the ends are tight together, it will make it much simpler to clamp as well.
Edges straight from a jointer work as do those straight from your table saw. But for the best joint, hit them with the hand plane before glue up
Clint
Wait wait is the freud glue line blade better than the legendary forrest? Btw agree with the hand plane but i have yet to install my vice after our last move...
Please help support the Creek.
"It's paradoxical that the idea of living a long life appeals to everyone, but the idea of getting old doesn't appeal to anyone."
Andy Rooney
A number of people subscribe to the idea of using a sprung joint. That can only be done with a block plane.Would be better to replace the sandpaper with a light block plane I suppose. Or just have the edge's already jointed from the jointer/saw.
Tommy Mac used the technique on one of his shows.
A sprung joint is one where there's a very slight arc between the faces and the clamps draw the edges tight.
I was sort of surprised yesterday to see that the stock counter tops sold by Home Depot use sprung joints on their miters.
I myself don't use a sprung joint. I have a Freud Glue Line rip blade on my contractor saw. I use a full kerf, not a thin kerf blade. The full kerf works just fine for me since I never rip anything thicker than 4/4.
I can't say if it's as good as or better than a Forrrest since I don't have a Forrest.
I do know it was only about 2/3 the price of a Forrest.
Although Forrest still makes a good blade, it doesn't have the same cachet as it used to, now it seems to be viewed as "neck jewelry" for woodworkers. Freud have bootstrapped themselves up to a quality level on a par, but at a substantial cost savings, and having had both I now favor the convenience of having two Freud's' to one Forrest for the same money, especially when it's resharpen time.
- Beachside Hank
Scott Vroom
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
Scott, I'm saying that if some woodworkers could sport their Forrest on a silver chain around their neck, they would.
- Beachside Hank
I keep a freud glue line rip blade in my table saw pretty much all the time. I agree they put out a great cut that dosent really need to be run thru the jointer. I still tend to sweeten the edges at the jointer though. Usually only takes a couple more minutes.
As for Forrest blades I don't have any but I have a friend of mine (KAB) that sure likes them. I think he'd give up woodworking before he'd give them up.
PHM
>>>> you do not want to clamp the joint too tightly and squeeze out all of the glue
Actually, PVA adhesive needs to be tightly clamped to develop maximum strength. For example, Titebond recommends
For softwoods (pine, poplar): 100-150 psi
For medium density woods (cherry, soft maple): 150-200 psi
For hardwoods (oak, birch): 200-300 psi
To achieve these pressures, you need to fully tighten a 3/4" pipe clamp.
The bottom line is that it is almost impossible to over-clamp a joint.
Howie.........