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Thread: Rough or smooth edges when edge gluing boards?

  1. #16
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    Straightline rips as suggested are fine, if you do joint all instead, use sharp knives, dull ones compress the fibers creating a poor bond.

    - Beachside Hank

  2. I am with the majority of posts; joint one edge, mark with chalk and use a Freud glue line rip. Sometimes I use a couple biscuits on multiple board glue ups just to help with alignment and I switched to Titebond 3 - it seems to have a bit longer working time. Be ready with all your cauls and clamps and work fast.2 piece glue up.jpg What are you making and what kind of wood are you using? - Will

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Henderson View Post
    My first reaction is that you're over thinking this. I've been gluing up directly from the table saw for years. And I don't think it's possible to squeeze out glue so that you won't get a good glue joint. In my early days, I used extreme clamp pressure and never had a glue joint failure. You only need a very small amount of glue to hold two surfaces that are well fitted to each other.

    Mike

    I agree, Norm used to talk about "don't use to much pressure", I think tests since then show, unless you are using hydralic clamps, it is impossible to squeeze the glue out of the joint. I have used all the force I can with pipe clamps many times and never had a problem.
    Randy Gazda
    Big Sky Country

  4. #19
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    Hank - How will compressed fibers create a poor bond?

    Chris

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Hedges View Post
    Hank - How will compressed fibers create a poor bond?

    Chris
    Chris, it impedes the mechanical interlocking of adhesives, sometimes only allowing penetration of two cells or less.

    - Beachside Hank

  6. #21
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    Surprised that nobody has mentioned a jointer PLANE before now. The flattesurface mating surfaces are, the better. A jointer will always leave a wavy surface due to the way it cuts. The waves may be small but they will be there. A good glue line rip blade will not leave any of those waves,but may leave saw marks instead. Depends on the blade and how well your saw is adjusted. If you take a well tuned and sharp hand plane, however, you can remove any of those marks for the best gluing surface. If you clamp those boards side by side, your board will always remain flat as well

    As has already been said, you can't put enough pressure on a hand clamp to squeeze out enough glue to starve the joint.

    If plane a slight gap in the center of your joint but the ends are tight together, it will make it much simpler to clamp as well.

    Edges straight from a jointer work as do those straight from your table saw. But for the best joint, hit them with the hand plane before glue up


    Clint

  7. #22
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    Wait wait is the freud glue line blade better than the legendary forrest? Btw agree with the hand plane but i have yet to install my vice after our last move...

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by frank shic View Post
    Wait wait is the freud glue line blade better than the legendary forrest? Btw agree with the hand plane but i have yet to install my vice after our last move...
    Better than WWII? For ripping it is much better.

    As for over clamping, the only reason I can see to really crank on the clamp is if you are trying to close a gap. In which case you would have other problems that need addressing.
    Please help support the Creek.


    "It's paradoxical that the idea of living a long life appeals to everyone, but the idea of getting old doesn't appeal to anyone."
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  9. #24
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    Would be better to replace the sandpaper with a light block plane I suppose. Or just have the edge's already jointed from the jointer/saw.
    A number of people subscribe to the idea of using a sprung joint. That can only be done with a block plane.
    Tommy Mac used the technique on one of his shows.
    A sprung joint is one where there's a very slight arc between the faces and the clamps draw the edges tight.

    I was sort of surprised yesterday to see that the stock counter tops sold by Home Depot use sprung joints on their miters.

    I myself don't use a sprung joint. I have a Freud Glue Line rip blade on my contractor saw. I use a full kerf, not a thin kerf blade. The full kerf works just fine for me since I never rip anything thicker than 4/4.

    I can't say if it's as good as or better than a Forrrest since I don't have a Forrest.
    I do know it was only about 2/3 the price of a Forrest.

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce Page View Post
    I no longer use the jointer for edge jointing glue-ups. I find that my Freud glue line rip blade leaves a ready for glue-up edge finish.
    That's all I do. Nothing fancy. Rip it, glue it.
    Never, under any circumstances, consume a laxative and sleeping pill, on the same night

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich Engelhardt View Post
    respectful snip...
    I can't say if it's as good as or better than a Forrrest since I don't have a Forrest.
    I do know it was only about 2/3 the price of a Forrest.
    Although Forrest still makes a good blade, it doesn't have the same cachet as it used to, now it seems to be viewed as "neck jewelry" for woodworkers. Freud have bootstrapped themselves up to a quality level on a par, but at a substantial cost savings, and having had both I now favor the convenience of having two Freud's' to one Forrest for the same money, especially when it's resharpen time.

    - Beachside Hank

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by HANK METZ View Post
    Although Forrest still makes a good blade, it doesn't have the same cachet as it used to, now it seems to be viewed as "neck jewelry" for woodworkers. - Beachside Hank
    It's one thing to lose cachet, it's another thing to sell a product of diminished quality. Which are you asserting, Hank? The reviews of the Forrest blades are overwhelmingly favorable.
    Scott Vroom

    I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.

  13. #28
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    Scott, I'm saying that if some woodworkers could sport their Forrest on a silver chain around their neck, they would.

    - Beachside Hank

  14. #29
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    I keep a freud glue line rip blade in my table saw pretty much all the time. I agree they put out a great cut that dosent really need to be run thru the jointer. I still tend to sweeten the edges at the jointer though. Usually only takes a couple more minutes.

    As for Forrest blades I don't have any but I have a friend of mine (KAB) that sure likes them. I think he'd give up woodworking before he'd give them up.

    PHM

  15. #30
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    >>>> you do not want to clamp the joint too tightly and squeeze out all of the glue

    Actually, PVA adhesive needs to be tightly clamped to develop maximum strength. For example, Titebond recommends

    For softwoods (pine, poplar): 100-150 psi
    For medium density woods (cherry, soft maple): 150-200 psi
    For hardwoods (oak, birch): 200-300 psi

    To achieve these pressures, you need to fully tighten a 3/4" pipe clamp.

    The bottom line is that it is almost impossible to over-clamp a joint.
    Howie.........

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