Fast Drying Dipping Finish?

[Perry Holbrook]

I use lacquer for all my finishing, however I have a potential project that may need a different approach. I will have hundreds of solid ash blocks that are 4 x 6 x 2. I'm considering a couple of ideas. First is to find a finish that I can dip into, wipe off, set aside to dry QUICKLY and get good coverage in one coat. If I need to dry in a heated area, so be it.

The second idea is to use a large tumbler, maybe a cement mixer, filled with some kind of media, (maybe walnut shells, corn or wood pellets), saturated with a finish that will "rub" the blocks. Years ago, I saw a local guy do this to finish childrens play blocks with success, but I can't locate him now to ask detail questions.

The blocks will be used for a merchandizing display if that matters.

Ideas?

Perry

[Todd Burch]

What are the requirements of the finish?

[Perry Holbrook]

I see it being a low sheen finish, something that soaks into the wood rather than a surface film. It will get some possible wear since it is a display in a retail environment.

That help?

Perry

[Scott Holmes]

Are you needing to finish all six sides of the blocks?

I would use an oil varnish blend (aka Danish oil) to wipe on and set them on painter points or boards with nails sticking up so a six sides can be done at once.

[Perry Holbrook]

Yes all 6 sides. My memory of using the oil varnish blends, is that they are not fast drying. When I'm looking at doing a few hundred at a time, drying space becomes an issue.

Perry

[Prashun Patel]

IMHO, the easiest will be to line them all up, spray them with a couple coats of lacquer, rotate them, then repeat. Lacquer is about the fastest drying durable finish there is. If the blocks need to be food safe then use shellac.

[Todd Burch]

Mineral oil.

[Perry Holbrook]

Never used mineral oil, but it had crossed my mind that it may be a possibility. However, I don't think I have seen "mineral oil" in the stores or cataloges. What specifically do I need to buy to try as a test?

Perry

[Todd Burch]

Mineral oil.

Go to your local pharmacy, in the laxative section.

[Perry Holbrook]

Thanks,
Perry

[Ted Calver]

I wouldn't use mineral oil for a retail display if it risked staining my merchandise. I like Prashun's idea.

[Todd Burch]

I wouldn't use mineral oil for a retail display if it risked staining my merchandise. I like Prashun's idea.

Wow! How much mineral oil do you leave on the wood? I oil my butcher block all the time, and nothing that has set on it has ever wicked up oil or gotten oil stained.

[Scott Holmes]

Nitro Cellulous lacquer is food safe after it dries; as are almost all wood finishes made it the USA since about 1978... LEAD was the main cause for concern.

Spraying a fast drying finish would be much quicker than an oil/varnish blend. As mentioned spray, turn, spray again. Spraying 3 sides each time would require 1 turn per coat...

A sanding sealer may help fill the grain faster and get you to the final coat faster....

[Perry Holbrook]

As a production shop, I am well aware of the time required to properly lacquer these blocks. I need to reduce that labor. That's why I was thinking dipping. Fill a large barrel with "something", dump the blocks in, let soak, remove and wipe off excess, dry, use. Definitely quicker if I can find that "something". If I have too, I could make drying racks and put them in a drying room.

I noticed no one thought much of the tumbler idea. Why not?

Perry

[Todd Burch]

I noticed no one thought much of the tumbler idea. Why not?

Perry

I personally have pigeonholed tumblers in my brain into the "ball milling" and "de-burring" application bin, not the wood finishing bin. I've never heard of that technique. Tumblers are also in my brains "let it run for a week" time estimate bin, and not the "hurry up and get 'er done quick" time estimate bin.

Hundreds of 4x6x2 ash blocks won't fit in a cement mixer, unless your cement mixer is mounted to the said truck.