Page 1 of 4 1234 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 50

Thread: cap iron adjustments ( like in the japanese video ) wont let my LN blade protrude....

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Coweta County, GA
    Posts
    484

    cap iron adjustments ( like in the japanese video ) wont let my LN blade protrude....

    So I took my 5.5 and was going to see what I could figure out in reference to the recently found video of a cap iron's placement and how if affects ( prevents ) tear out in any direction.... I got the blade super close to the edge, almost to the point that a magnification was needed to make sure it didnt stick out over the edge of the blade .... trying to find that .2 millimeter... and I can get it adjusted very close to that point, but when I put the set up in the blade, and move the frog forward and back to find the right set up that works, the depth adjuster wont let it down far enough to clear the mouth of the plane... The round hole in the cap iron for the hold down screw causes the breaker to bottom out on the screw ..... So I dont think this is gonna work without altering the hole some, and then the tang that moves the blade forward and back will drop down to where it wont catch on the blade.... so I dunno ..... I am sure in a japanese style or Krenov style plane this will work okay.... and I didnt try it out in my old stanley number three.... since its got frog problems.... but I could give it a try and see ....







    I had it closer than this, but I encountered the above problem.... this was pushing the limits of the depth adjuster's travel and mouth opening....

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Burlington, Vermont
    Posts
    2,298
    Interesting. That looks like a considerably smaller hole than the somewhat ovoid holes on all the chipbreakers I have.

    I suppose you could just grind a bunch off the working end of your iron . . .

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Baton Rouge LA
    Posts
    968
    Grinding the cutter wont do anything for you but you could file the chipbreaker hole.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Philadelphia, PA
    Posts
    3,635
    Thats odd. I've had that problem, but only on old planes where someone had previously ground back the leading edge of the CB. I would send the pic to LN and ask what they say. They will be more than willing to advise you.

  5. you need a slightly longer cap iron.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Burlington, Vermont
    Posts
    2,298
    Oops - Never mind, I get it.
    Last edited by Joshua Pierce; 05-06-2012 at 7:47 PM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Coweta County, GA
    Posts
    484
    It looks like I would need maybe another +/- a quarter inch of room in the chip breaker hole..... and that still wont solve the problem of the depth adjuster running out of travel... although, i guess if the chip breaker had more travel it would most likely eliminate that problem.....

    I wouldnt really know what to ask LN..... that I am trying to get the tool to do something it really wasnt designed to do.... as far as a set up procedure goes.... I dont think they designed the tool to have the chip breaker so super close to the edge of the blade... so I dont think this is something I should call them over.... I am sure the would most likely send me a new chip breaker.... but it will most likely be set up the same way.....

    I guess I will have to set out and just build me a krenov style plane.... perhaps a hock kit first, just to learn the process.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    11,309
    I would call them and ask them if they intend the chipbreaker to be able to make it all the way to the edge of the iron with the iron at full depth. If they don't, there is a design flaw (especially considering that the edge will take some wear when used properly and have to be polished from time to time). I haven't tried to fiddle with my lone remaining LN plane yet (#7) because I haven't used it since we started this playing with second irons.

    But it is a design flaw straight away if you can't advance the chipbreaker all the way to the cut in use.
    Unleaded tastes a little tangy, supreme is kinda sour, and diesel tastes pretty good.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Baton Rouge LA
    Posts
    968
    How far is the chipbreaker from the edge usually? Its got to be within 1/16. They must have engineered more travel into the adjuster than that. Is your chipbreaker altered?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Longview WA
    Posts
    9,836
    If possible, my first check would be to measure the distance from the bottom of the slot to the edge of the chip breaker and compare this with another chip breaker of the same size.

    There is a chart of such measurements here on SMC, but it only covers Stanley chip breakers.

    Maybe some one can supply the measurements from one of their chip breakers if you do not have another LN plane using the same sized blade.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  11. #11
    I'm curious how your experiments turn out - I just got done tuning 5 #3's (inspired by the same video) and the closest I could get the cap iron was 1/32" before clogging stopped things in their tracks (1/32" worked very well). A Bailey style cap iron seems pretty close to what the video shows, I'm curious how/if LN cap changes things.
    Here is a photo of the wadding when the cap is too close to the edge along with a shaving when things are well adjusted:
    http://zkprojectnotebook.files.wordp.../wad.jpg?w=600
    (Too big to attach)

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Burlington, Vermont
    Posts
    2,298
    From the Lie Nielsen site about their chipbreakers, it sounds like the measurement from the chipbreaker edge to the bottom of the slot on a 2 3/8" blade (that's what your 5 1/2 has, right?) is supposed to be 3.820". Might be worth checking yours - I'd still contact LN regardless, but it could give you an idea if somehow you got a short one or if this is how things are supposed to be.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Burlington, Vermont
    Posts
    2,298
    Zander - I haven't tried these super-close settings on my planes yet, but that shaving pattern looks suspiciously close to what I had on my smoothing blade before fettling the breaker a bit. Polishing the front edge and then honing a slight relief on the bottom, so as to be certain that the contact point was at the very leading edge of the breaker helped alleviate this. Maybe you've already done this and this is a different problem with a similar looking symptom, but I thought I'd throw that out there.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Philadelphia, PA
    Posts
    3,635
    Quote Originally Posted by Joshua Pierce View Post
    Zander - I haven't tried these super-close settings on my planes yet, but that shaving pattern looks suspiciously close to what I had on my smoothing blade before fettling the breaker a bit. Polishing the front edge and then honing a slight relief on the bottom, so as to be certain that the contact point was at the very leading edge of the breaker helped alleviate this. Maybe you've already done this and this is a different problem with a similar looking symptom, but I thought I'd throw that out there.
    I agree. Looks like you do not have tight enough mating surfaces between the back of your blade and the CB. Stick a piece of medium-coarse sand paper down to a flat surface and work the CBs mating surface. Be sure that you hold the CB so the its upper portion (the part you are holding) sits below the surface on which the CB is being worked. This will create the relief angle that Josh is talking about and ensure the the leading edge of the CB is in full contact with the blade back. Once you establish the relief than you can polish that mating surface on your medium of choice.

    Edit: Zander, here's a video that illustrates tuning a CB this pretty well: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SV7XVrJdOR8
    Last edited by Chris Griggs; 05-07-2012 at 7:35 AM.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    11,309
    Quote Originally Posted by Zander Kale View Post
    I'm curious how your experiments turn out - I just got done tuning 5 #3's (inspired by the same video) and the closest I could get the cap iron was 1/32" before clogging stopped things in their tracks (1/32" worked very well). A Bailey style cap iron seems pretty close to what the video shows, I'm curious how/if LN cap changes things.
    Here is a photo of the wadding when the cap is too close to the edge along with a shaving when things are well adjusted:
    http://zkprojectnotebook.files.wordp.../wad.jpg?w=600
    (Too big to attach)
    What is that iron, is it a stock iron? If it's not, try the stock iron first to see if you have the same issues. If you don't have the same trouble with the stock iron then there's just not enough room between the front of the cap iron and the top side of the mouth front.

    (if it does it with both irons, lap it flush, but a feed issue that comes from a jam up at the mouth ends up looking the same as a jam up that comes from a bad/not flush second iron fit.
    Last edited by David Weaver; 05-07-2012 at 7:45 AM.
    Unleaded tastes a little tangy, supreme is kinda sour, and diesel tastes pretty good.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •