So I took my 5.5 and was going to see what I could figure out in reference to the recently found video of a cap iron's placement and how if affects ( prevents ) tear out in any direction.... I got the blade super close to the edge, almost to the point that a magnification was needed to make sure it didnt stick out over the edge of the blade .... trying to find that .2 millimeter... and I can get it adjusted very close to that point, but when I put the set up in the blade, and move the frog forward and back to find the right set up that works, the depth adjuster wont let it down far enough to clear the mouth of the plane... The round hole in the cap iron for the hold down screw causes the breaker to bottom out on the screw ..... So I dont think this is gonna work without altering the hole some, and then the tang that moves the blade forward and back will drop down to where it wont catch on the blade.... so I dunno ..... I am sure in a japanese style or Krenov style plane this will work okay.... and I didnt try it out in my old stanley number three.... since its got frog problems.... but I could give it a try and see ....







I had it closer than this, but I encountered the above problem.... this was pushing the limits of the depth adjuster's travel and mouth opening....