Finish for oak on the outside of a vehicle

[Jeff Monson]

I have a friend (a total Mopar freak) who just purchased a "little red express truck", he has asked me
to duplicate the oak trim on the side of the box and tailgate. This part is no problem, but I have NO idea on what to use for the protective finish on the oak.

[Jerome Hanby]

I'd be tempted to dye it then top coat it with something hard. Wonder if Epoxy would work?

[Quinn McCarthy]

I have used west system epoxy do that. They make a special hardener for working with wood. I would check oout there website it is a great resource. I have made most sailboat parts. They still look great after a few years. You need to use spar varnish occasionally to stop UV rays.

Quinn

[sheldon pettit]

Well.... as any other coating for exterior use, nothings going to last a long time, lol. so as long as you and he are aware of this, as the previous poster suggested epoxy could be used, but not by itself, further films would be needed over it or it will turn hazy from oxidation, the overcoat could be marine varnish with UVA's and HALS inhibitors and protectants added to keep the finish in good shape or even 2K urethane's such as on most cars to begin with, you can also use a 2K isolation sealer first, with a polyester over it and a 2K top coat. All should have UV and HALS in them though for the best service life possible. There are protectants for the wood itself but not available to the general public, so i can't recommend any.

[Jamie Schmitz]

Epoxy will work and look nice. If you want it to look extra nice you could also fill the grain with a clear filler. Do the back first which is crucial but watch for drips after about and hour and if you get them use a razor knife. Then do the front of the piece.

http://www.tapplastics.com/product/f...poxy_system/27

[sheldon pettit]

Jamie has a good post for sure, but still epoxies are not meant to be used in and of themselves, even Tap plastics is in agreement with this, from long use of such you do need over-coatings that contain UV and preferably light stabilizers to get the most of of such uses in outdoor exposures.

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Message to tap plastics:
as to your marine grade epoxy system, you say nothing about a common thing i have run into in the past as to its oxidizing and greying or hazing when no other UV and HALS coatings like marine varnish or 2K urethane's are placed over them. So I have to ask are you saying yours does not do this? Or like all other epoxies i have used that it needs further clear-coat protection in order to avoid such?

REPLY:

""Our epoxies, like all epoxies need protection from UV.""

[Brian Kent]

For outdoor finishes I have followed the advice from here and from Fine Woodworking and using 7 coats of Epiphanes Marine Varnish.

[Jamie Buxton]

If your friend gives you the choice, use white oak, not red oak. It resists water damage much better.

[Kent A Bathurst]

For outdoor finishes I have followed the advice from here and from Fine Woodworking and using 7 coats of Epiphanes Marine Varnish.

Yeah....what he said.

[Howard Acheson]

>>>> Epoxy will work and look nice.

If you contact the epoxy formulator, you will find that epoxy is not a good choice if it will be exposed long term to the UV in sunlight. Boaters will over coat epoxy with a UV inhibited non-poly varnish. Of course, the varnish will need maintenance every 3-5 years. It will begin to get cloudy and then begin to lose adhesion then crack and peel.