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Thread: Garage floor covering

  1. #1
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    Garage floor covering

    This is slightly off topic: I'm refinishing my garage (it's not my workshop) but I want a good floor covering. I did epoxy on a previous garage. It was fine, but given the oily/dirty state of my current floor, I'm thinking about a tiled solution. Any suggestions? Any alternatives to (or votes for) epoxy?

  2. #2
    There's concrete floor paint, though epoxy looks and wears better. Epoxy is easy just be SURE than it stays over 50 (or whatever the can says) for the duration of the cure. My brother-in-law (who is generally a DIY idiot anyhow) managed to really trash his garage floor because it got cold that night.

    The next question is whether you want to park cars in the place or not. There are probably a half dozen garage floor materials either as tiles or as sheet goods that will work. We were looking at one of those for our new garage, but the concrete guy said he could grind the surface real smooth and apply a polish so that's what we did.

    This is one I've looked at: http://www.racedeck.com/fastdeck.html

  3. #3
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    Do you have pix of your garage floor? Was it expensive to do the grinding and polishing?

  4. #4
    Not the greatest picture to show the floor but:



    I don't know about the cost, it was all bundled into pouring the floor, but I got the feeling it wasn't that much compared to the other finishes.
    Here's the info on the process: http://www.bomanite.com/Custom%20Polishing/

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prashun Patel View Post
    This is slightly off topic: I'm refinishing my garage (it's not my workshop) but I want a good floor covering. I did epoxy on a previous garage. It was fine, but given the oily/dirty state of my current floor, I'm thinking about a tiled solution. Any suggestions? Any alternatives to (or votes for) epoxy?
    Wolverine coatings + integra-flex for the cracks and expansion joints is a great option. To handle slipping (oil, wood dust, etc.) make sure you get enough additives in the mix for the final coat.

  6. #6
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    I did the U-coat epoxy on my last garage and now in my current woodshop. I will be doing my current garage floor hopefully this summer. I have been very impressed with the durability and ease of installation with the product.
    A bus station is where a bus stops. A train station is where a train stops. My desk is a work station.

  7. #7
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    Jeff-
    I've been looking at U-Coat also. The thing is, my floor has been previously painted and there are some oil stains. How did you clean yours? I did Rustoleum epoxy on my dad's garage years ago, but it was pretty clean and unpainted.

    Specifically, which kit did you buy? Did you get the ultra system (which I think is just a double shot of the flakes and top coat?)

    BTW, I see you've been working with Pete @ Horizon. I just bought that walnut slab he was trying to sell to you...
    - pp

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prashun Patel View Post
    Jeff-
    Specifically, which kit did you buy? Did you get the ultra system (which I think is just a double shot of the flakes and top coat?)
    On both occasions I bought the floor coating kit, and then the uf gloss top coat kit. I wish on my woodshop I had gone with the flakes, its getting a bit stained up from stain splatters (stain will penetrate it). I think the flakes are a bit overpriced...but I would not dare to substitute. I will need 2 kits of each for my garage floor this summer, I do plan on adding flakes this time. I also did speak with a cust. rep and was told I can scuff my floor (the ucoat floor) with 80 grit and recoat with flakes and a new topcoat. I will do this in a couple years or so. I have had no chipping, lifting or peeling with their product. The color coat goes on when the cement is still wet so I believe this helps with adhesion. As far as cleaning goes, I have always done the muratic acid cleaning step. If you have stains then address them individually before acid cleaning. They sell product for oil stains etc. but it all adds up.

    Pete has been very helpful, he is keeping an eye out for a slab that will work for my dimensions. I'd love to buy a couple of the larger ones, but shipping is a major deal breaker. Thanks for the reference, they are very polite and professional people at Horizon.
    A bus station is where a bus stops. A train station is where a train stops. My desk is a work station.

  9. #9
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    I tore out my 32 year old garage floor a few years ago and replaced it with new concrete dyed brick red, with floor drains under each parking spot, and had it sealed with a product called diamond coat or something similar. At first it looked great. What they didn't tell me is that the product softens and even melts if it comes in contact with a solvent, like brake fluid or gasoline and it picks up all sorts of stains from mud and road salt. I really don't like it and am considering having the surface ground smooth and a garage specific hardener/sealer applied. I tried epoxy on my old garage floor and it ended up pealing off from tire contact and the fact that the floor was just too old and stained with all sorts of vehicle liquids.

  10. BASF MMA acrylic.
    4 coats in 1 day.
    ~100mils thick.
    Can add coats later with re-activated mma.
    Moves better than epoxy.

    Negatives: smells, very expensive, not DIY friendly.

  11. #11
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    Good thread. This sounds like a really good product. http://www.armorgarage.com/hpfloorshot.html Anybody use this product? What do you think?

  12. #12
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    Prashun

    I will eventually be building a new workshop. I ran across this and looked interesting to be easier on the feel. I couldn't get the link to work, but copy and paste seems to work.


    http://www.ronhazelton.com/projects/...a_garage_floor

    Bill

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by William C Rogers View Post
    Prashun

    I will eventually be building a new workshop. I ran across this and looked interesting to be easier on the feel. I couldn't get the link to work, but copy and paste seems to work.


    Bill
    Does anyone know the weight capacity of that subflooring system? Hazelton makes mention of possibly parking his car on top of it, so it will supposedly hold about a thousand pounds on each tire. I've thought about using this stuff in my basement, but I have some rather large tools down there (one milling machine with a 24x36" base weighs over 3,000#) and am concerned that it would crush - either while moving/installing that mill with a pallet jack (three relatively narrow wheels) or once the mill is in place and gets to settle in. I had asked at the orange borg about weight capacity, but of course they were totally clueless and couldn't be bothered to call the company to find out.

    Brian
    Taxachusetts

  14. #14
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    Bill, Thanks for that link. I installed Dri-Core subpanels (actually I think it was SubFloor) in my basement bathroom. It's fine. But in a garage I'm not sure it's necessary for me. I'd still need some kind of covering for it.

    In the end, I went with G-floor vinyl mats (which coincidentally is also in yr link).

    I installed them about 10 years ago and they got grimey in a decade. I was looking for something new like epoxy, etc. But I realized it's really the best option for me. At Sam's Club, they're priced very low. The installation is brainless and it makes the floor look brand new. They're replaceable, and resist all stains about as well as anything out there. I'm happy with my choice.

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