Sharpening Mower Blades?

[ray hampton]

that is about what I remember, I was thinking about the highway mowing machines, when they finish mowing the bush-hog are raise to close between 70-90 degrees, almost vertical, I tend to forget about the ferment grass

[Matt Meiser]

I suppose I should sharpen my brush hog blades too.

[ray hampton]

I remove mower blades before that I would use a wood block to block the blade so the nut could be remove and replace, the same upset [ that are suppose to say setup ]will hold the blade for a sharping

[ray hampton]

which name are correct "bush-hog or brush-hog ?

[Matt Meiser]

Technically rotary cutter. Brush or bush? Hog is a brand name.

[Ron Jones near Indy]

I put the blades in the vise and hit them with the angle grinder.

[Tim Morton]

I just replace them every 3 or 4 years whether they need it or not...

Kind of timely here, since i just pulled mine off yesterday for replacement....but i think this will motivate me to at aleast attempt to go the srarpening routge next time.

[Jim Becker]

I sharpen mine with an angle grinder...I lift the ZTR up with the tractor FEL so I can put the front of it on jack stands, and then lie on the ground and do the blades with the angle grinder, only working on the blade section closest to the front so that I never have much of my arm under the unit. Which reminds me...I need to do this real soon now!

[Pat Barry]

This doesn't have to be anything fancy. Use whatever is the easiest. I use the bench grinder because I don't like to waste my time with a file. I balance the blade on my finger tip. When the blade gets too skinny I replace it. Belt sander - sure, but if you have the bench grinder why bother. Just take light passes, eyeball the bevel and put your efforts into something productive. Now, if you are in the running for most beautiful yard, the cover of Home and Gardens, or working at Augusta National then by all means get sophisticated. You don't want those ugly split ends in any of those situations.

[BOB OLINGER]

I put mine in the vise and use the angle grinder - very fast. Likely best to avoid razor sharp edges as they are more prone to chipping - not saying I fully abide.

[David G Baker]

Due to the large amount of sand and rocks on my property I have to replace my blades almost every year at around $40 for each change. By the time I change them there isn't much metal left to sharpen.

[Jerome Stanek]

Due to the large amount of sand and rocks on my property I have to replace my blades almost every year at around $40 for each change. By the time I change them there isn't much metal left to sharpen.

I think you are doing something wrong. Your supposed to mow grass not rocks.

[David G Baker]

Jerome S.
The rocks that get mowed are rocks from a neighbors driveway that are pushed on to my property during the Winter by a snow plow. The rocks are hidden from view by grass and most are on a steep bank that is risky. If there was an easy way to remove the rocks without investing in some expensive equipment I would explore it. My snow removal also moves rocks into my lawn area. I rake the areas but I frequently miss a few. My lawn is around 3 acres, what I should do is let the grass grow and cut it with my brush hog couple times a year. The brush hog has much better clearance than the riding mower. Sand probably does more damage than the rocks.

[Roy Turbett]

I use my belt sander. I have a belt I use exclusively for sharpening my mower blades. I put it in a vice and have at it. Easier to hold the correct angle this way. It is also easy to check balance. Drive a large nail into a wall and put the blade on it. Hold it horizontal to the ground. If it stays put, it is in balance.

+1 on the belt sander and nail.

[Leigh Betsch]

Japanese water stones. Start with 1000g, move up to 32,000g. Ruler trick if the rock chips are too deep!