Tree Design Bookshelf

[james glenn]

We are putting the finishing touches on our nursery before the arrival of our first child, and the only remaning item
is a bookshelf. I had thought of something traditional, but since the room is not overly spacious, I started to think about it
a little differently and did some research.

I would like to build something similar to these attached photos, and since we have a jungle theme for the room this would
look great with some books and stuffed animals on it. Of course I will make many lower 'branches' for the child to reach when
it is younger.

Now, my questions:

1. Easier to cut the tapered branches on the bandsaw from solid wood, then sand smooth; or build a internal frame of webs and 1/4" plywd. sheathing then laminate over this?

2. How to attach it to the wall? I figure about 6"-8" deep, getting a little narrower at the top. But still cannot just screw through this if I use solid wood.
If I use a plywd. frame and internal webbing, I could then use hidden blocking attached to the wall studs then screw thru the underside of the 'branches' to attach
to the blocking.

Looking for any and all ideas please. It has me a little stumped at the moment.

Jimmy

Bookcase-Tree-1.jpgBranch-Oliver-Dolle-8-750x553.jpgmodern-bookshelf-design-550x735.jpg

[Jamie Buxton]

An advantage to solid wood is that you'd get to curve the trunk and branches, like real trees. Considering all the straight lines in the pics, I bet it is plywood. A disadvantage to solid wood is that the bookshelf will weigh quite a bit.

I'd fasten it to the wall with a screw or two that goes in above the top shelves. I'd use something like figure-8 clips. Above the upper shelf, they'd be generally invisible. (http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/f...enerspk12.aspx)

In addition to your puzzle about how to fasten it to the wall, you should think about the joinery. Cutting and clamping joints that aren't at 90 degrees is a bit of a challenge.

[Thomas Bank]

You might be able to use cam screws like they use for Sauder and IKEA furniture to attach the "tree" to the wall?

1280112977032_hz-myalibaba-web3_4073.jpg

[John Aspinall]

These are wonderful looking! What a great idea to nurture a love of reading.

I have built (fairly conventional) bookshelves using recessed keyhole plates (e.g. http://www.craftparts.com/100-fh101-p-1601.html ) for hidden mounting.
You have to be able to hang the shelf from the keyholes so its center of mass falls below the keyholes. That way the shelf falls naturally against the wall.
In my case, the keyholes were at the top of vertical "bookends" (each shelf was a wide shallow "U").

In this case, the suspension points are less obvious, and more critical to get positioned accurately, but I think it could work.

[Dave Richards]

I'd be inclined to go with plywood boxes with solid wood on the front and back. I probably wouldn't fully assemble it until it is ready for mounting and then I'd use KD fasteners similar to those Thomas showed to attach the pieces together. Keyhole plates on the wall make sense to me.

[Bruce Page]

Those are wonderful!
I would want a solid attachment along the lines that Thomas suggested. Having raised 3 kids, I know that sooner or later my kids or one of their friends would’ve tried to climb it.

[james glenn]

Thanks guys. I have figured that I need to build sections and then assemble/mount them on the wall. I will have the bottom of the branch coming up out of the floor, so
that should take some wight itself. Also figured on using biscuits or dowels to join the smaller branches, hoping it gives me a stronger joint and a way to control
it from sliding around while gluing.

Here is another question: Can the keyhole plates be mounted sideways? I get how they work vertically, but ever try them horizontally?

[Sam Murdoch]

Here is another question: Can the keyhole plates be mounted sideways? I get how they work vertically, but ever try them horizontally?

Yes, but getting all to align will be very difficult. Can't come up with a better idea except PERHAPS these: http://www.amazon.com/WoodRiver-Bed-...xp_grid_pt_2_0

51PymPCVETL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

These might be more forgiving as regards alignment and would certainly resist coming apart once set.

I like these bookcases very much. Clever and nice looking. Worth the effort that's for sure.

[Matt Day]

Great thread! I'm interested in this build and I'd like to hear some suggestions on the joinery and mounting ideas as well.
Particularly, designs with veneered plywood boxes vs solid wood.

[Art Mulder]

2. How to attach it to the wall? I figure about 6"-8" deep, getting a little narrower at the top. But still cannot just screw through this if I use solid wood.

NO!

James, go measure a bookcase. Better yet, go to the library or bookstore and measure the average size of Kids books.

You want shelves that are probably a minimum of 10" deep. Kids picture books are big.

Otherwise this is a very cool looking shelf idea!

[Eric DeSilva]

How about these: http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware...648,43649&ap=1

I haven't used the ones pictured, but have used a similar design for some commercial floating shelves I've bought in the past. I'd still want to anchor it to the wall here and there, but these can provide some good support. Besides, there is a rumor that Lee Valley place makes some pretty good stuff.

[james glenn]

How about these: http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware...648,43649&ap=1

I haven't used the ones pictured, but have used a similar design for some commercial floating shelves I've bought in the past. I'd still want to anchor it to the wall here and there, but these can provide some good support. Besides, there is a rumor that Lee Valley place makes some pretty good stuff.

I was actually thinking about something like this. And I believe they will work for the sections I make from solid wood. I plan on making the "trunk" section out of 1/4" mdf frames, then laminate the walnut to it. This will keep the cost and weight down, then the smaller branches will be solid pieces that I will glue up to a required thickness. This also allows me to use the keyhole plates to secure it to the wall.

I settled on an overall depth of 7.75". I have looked at the books, and figure I would stack the larger books. I would be nervous if they were stood up on something like this as opposed to a traditional bookshelf.

Thanks for the ideas and help, I'll keep you all posted on my progress. I started a trial mdf frame and also laminated some walnut boards together.

[james glenn]

So I just typed up this latest update with all the details and whatnot, then like an idiot proceeded to click the wrong button and lost it all......

This is the condensed version:

I laid out the design of the 'tree' and masked around the outline with black artisian tape. Looks pretty intense and cool just as it is. (will post pic later)

Then I made a template of each branch from museum board (similar to chip board) and marked all stud locations.

Still haven't descided how to attach to the wall yet, but think I might have to try a few ideas mentioned above.

Started cutting out the smaller branches first by laminated some walnut boards then cutting them on the bandsaw followed by some passes on the jointer
to get them near smooth. Then some light sanding to finish them up.

A few new questions I do have:

1. What type of finish do you fellas recommend for this application?

2. I want to use dowels to hold the branches in place while glueing. I hope this stops them from slipping. If you look at the pictures above, you will notice
that each branch has a unique angle where it meets the larger branch/trunk. How do I drill the dowel holes if the face getting the hole is not perpendicular to the shelf face?
Or am I over thinking this and will realize it's not too hard once I set the drill press up?

3. Would it make more sense to dado each branch into the trunk of the tree, even though this means various angled dado's?

Thanks for all the help.
I will post some pics of the progress this weekend.

Jim

[Dave Richards]

If the dowels are only for registration to keep one part from slipping against another, I think I would skip the dowel and use some small finishing nails with their heads clipped off. Drive them in and clip the heads off with a side cutter about 1/6" above the surface. Press them into the mating surface and the parts won't slide. That's a lot faster and easier. If you want the dowels to provide some joint strength, you can do the same thing with the nails but pull them out after marking the opposite side. Drill for the dowels in the locations marked by the nails. Or you could get some dowel centers--little metal inserts to fit into holes drilled in one part with points to stick into the other part.

As to the dados? I'm not sure I understand.

[james glenn]

Here are a couple of pics of the outline and templates taped to it (note the blue tape is holding the templates in place).

Outline 1.jpgOutline 2.JPG