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Thread: Outfeed Table Design

  1. #1
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    Outfeed Table Design

    Here is my design. The top is approx 47" x 84". There is an overhang to accommodate the rear exit dust ports on my SawStop. The casters are 5" tall. I have added a piece of 2x4 to lower frame for the casters to secure to. That leaves the table legs at approximately 1/2" off the floor (very uneven garage floor (concrete)). There is approximately a 3" overhang on each side. Will add 20mm parf holes to the top and there will most likely be drawers installed in bottom.

    Skeleton.jpg Finished.jpg end view.jpg Skeleton 2.jpg Skeleton 3.jpg Side View 2.jpg

    Any feedback is appreciated.
    Tim in Hill Country of Texas

  2. #2
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    Anything works but need a way to fine tune the height and level. I have big lag bolt heads on the floor, going into plywood beams then built up from there. Just reach in with a wrench on the floor to turn the bolts.

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    I like the lag screw idea, here is what I was previously thinking.
    Leveler.jpg
    Tim in Hill Country of Texas

  4. #4
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    I made mine from this design. Mine is on casters, so I can rotate it 90 degrees for longer outfeed support.


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    From your drawings, I pose a question? Is this being built from plywood, hence the double thickness for everything? Also it looks like your top is of torsion box design, Why do you have so many cross members? THe bottom could be built with stretchers and 2-3 cross members the same goes for the top of the frame, the box designed top will hold all the weight, cross members of the frame just keep it "in shape" side to side. All of the weight will be transferred down via the frame from the top box. The frame could easily be fashioned from construction lumber and the top box from plywood or MDF (but would be very heavy). As to the levelers, think about how heavy the table will be, I see that allen key striping out.. i found these which are a little better and I wouldn't use the stamped steel wrench that is supplied.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce King View Post
    Anything works but need a way to fine tune the height and level. I have big lag bolt heads on the floor, going into plywood beams then built up from there. Just reach in with a wrench on the floor to turn the bolts.
    I would use toggle clamps to raise the casters slightly off the floor so the table won't move.
    143936.0.jpg
    Lee Schierer
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  7. #7
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    This leads to an interesting question. At what height should the outfeed table be in relation to the table saw. I always thought it should be slightly lower (as I built mine), but how much is "slightly"?

    I'll have to adjust mine in the near future, as I'll have to shim up my table saw by a small amount (don't ask...)
    - After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
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  8. #8
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    Consistent with some previous discussion here around larger structures like this, you'll want to consider reinforcing the unit under that base level just above the casters with some sturdy angle iron to insure there is no sagging over time. You could also place some fully swiveling casters at the midpoint if you can get them to the exact same height as the double locking casters you'll use at the four corners for the same purpose. Your top should be fine, given both the support structure and the torsion box type construction of the actual work surface assembly...just get that base shored up so it will remain straight/flat over time.
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  9. #9
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    Wish you lived in Alberta. I have a steel outfeed table that I had made about 20 years ago. It is made from one inch tubing welded up with a one inch plywood top covered with plastic laminate. Taking up room at my shop now. I may pull it apart and cut down and reweld to make a base for a welding table. Tim I would seriously consider how big the top actually needs to be. My experience is that a lot of people (myself included) build much bigger than is actually needed. If I remember right about 50" was the length needed to support 8' long stock after the cut.
    Last edited by Mike Kees; 12-20-2020 at 10:53 AM.

  10. #10
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    Do the legs need to extend down past the casters? If you stop them at the bottom rail, do they add any more strength being another ~3-4" longer not attached to anything?

    Remember on torsion box, the plywood/MDF layer adds strength resistance to horizontal racking (keeping it square). For vertical support (bending/flexing in the vertical) it is about the depth of the member (strength in vertical varies with cube of height). Thickness of member helps but is only linear in strength (2X thick is 2X strong).

    If you attach an MDF or plywood panel to the top, I think what you have is fine for an outfeed table and could work some as an assembly table or storage area. I would make the legs shorter so they don't drag on the floor if you intend to move it. If you are doing planing, pounding, etc, may need a support in the middle.. The casters from Home Depot that lock the caster and swivel are great. I have them on another cart and use them all the time.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alan Lightstone View Post
    This leads to an interesting question. At what height should the outfeed table be in relation to the table saw. I always thought it should be slightly lower (as I built mine), but how much is "slightly"?

    I'll have to adjust mine in the near future, as I'll have to shim up my table saw by a small amount (don't ask...)
    Hi Alan, I tried to put mine at least 1/16" or more below the tablesaw. I had some of the laminate come loose and hang on sheets I was cutting so put some tape on it (see photo). I think the main thing is not to have it above on the backside of the saw table. The extension table isa glorified catch in my opinion so I don't have to worry about supporting the entire workpiece through the cut. As you get away from the table, being equal or higher in height would probably not be noticed
    IMG_0527.jpg.
    Last edited by Michael W. Clark; 12-20-2020 at 11:11 PM. Reason: photo

  12. #12
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    Thanks, Michael. I feel like mine is too low presently (I'll have to measure.)

    The one episode of kickback I had, years ago, was caused by my outfeed table, unbeknownst to me, being slightly higher than the table saw, and catching on a piece of wood after it went through the blade.

    Impressive power. I was wondering whether I was going to bleed out from my liver or spleen. Fortunately, neither.

    I think Jim is referring to the thread I started about my assembly table / cabinet that is very big and was noticeably sagging in the middle. Putting two fixed legs of the appropriate size in the middle, then four casters on the corners fixed that wonderfully. Much to my chagrin, large angle iron which I have under the bottom wasn't sturdy enough, and didn't prevent the sag. There's a lot to be said about building a torsion box, which I didn't do, and would absolutely do again in retrospect. My $0.02
    Last edited by Alan Lightstone; 12-21-2020 at 9:00 AM.
    - After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alan Lightstone View Post
    This leads to an interesting question. At what height should the outfeed table be in relation to the table saw. I always thought it should be slightly lower (as I built mine), but how much is "slightly"?
    I would think just enough so that your boards won't catch in the edge as you push stock past your cast iron table. A round over on the leading edge would allow you to make them level. Mine is a much smaller fold-down table attached to the saw, so I don't need levelling legs.
    NOW you tell me...

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael W. Clark View Post
    Do the legs need to extend down past the casters? If you stop them at the bottom rail, do they add any more strength being another ~3-4" longer not attached to anything?

    Remember on torsion box, the plywood/MDF layer adds strength resistance to horizontal racking (keeping it square). For vertical support (bending/flexing in the vertical) it is about the depth of the member (strength in vertical varies with cube of height). Thickness of member helps but is only linear in strength (2X thick is 2X strong).

    If you attach an MDF or plywood panel to the top, I think what you have is fine for an outfeed table and could work some as an assembly table or storage area. I would make the legs shorter so they don't drag on the floor if you intend to move it. If you are doing planing, pounding, etc, may need a support in the middle.. The casters from Home Depot that lock the caster and swivel are great. I have them on another cart and use them all the time.
    Michael, yes the wheels extend beyond the base of the legs by about 1/2" for rolling purposes. Thus the use of leveling feet to provide sturdy support until movement is needed and to actually level with the table saw.
    Tim in Hill Country of Texas

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ryan Yeaglin View Post
    From your drawings, I pose a question? Is this being built from plywood, hence the double thickness for everything? Also it looks like your top is of torsion box design, Why do you have so many cross members? THe bottom could be built with stretchers and 2-3 cross members the same goes for the top of the frame, the box designed top will hold all the weight, cross members of the frame just keep it "in shape" side to side. All of the weight will be transferred down via the frame from the top box. The frame could easily be fashioned from construction lumber and the top box from plywood or MDF (but would be very heavy). As to the levelers, think about how heavy the table will be, I see that allen key striping out.. i found these which are a little better and I wouldn't use the stamped steel wrench that is supplied.
    I am an engineer, thus the belts and suspenders with the cross members. May I ask your source for these leveling feet?
    Tim in Hill Country of Texas

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