Are these indoor craft shows? If not maybe a small generator. Some of them are very quiet. Just one other option for electric.
Are these indoor craft shows? If not maybe a small generator. Some of them are very quiet. Just one other option for electric.
just going to throw this out there since it wasn't mentioned yet: 5 minute epoxy.
Hide glue would fit the bill. Titebond makes a pre-mixed version. Of course if you lived here in AZ with the heat and low humidity, yellow glue will set up in a couple of minutes
Go to an industrial adhesives supplier in your area and ask about quick set PVAs, they exist! Veneer Systems in Naigara Falls NY comes to mind.
My guess is that the trick is going to be to find something fast curing that isn't quite expensive.
To pick up on Chris' suggestion of PVA. Might there be an option to use the heat re-activation capability of one of the old style basic 'white glue' PVAs? (not the fancy 'waterproof' ones) Coat both surfaces in advance (making parts at home?), and let them dry. Use an electric clothes iron or use some sort of hot laminating press to stick the parts together? It won't necessarily be a very strong joint by structural standards, but that may not matter.
If coating and sticking have to be done shortly after each other it's possible that one of the specialist post forming PVAs used by those making counter tops and the like might make this possible. These guys come up on Google: http://www.wilsonartadhesives.com/pr...uctSearch.aspx I'm not sure, but I think some of the variants they use air dry in a few minutes (in warm conditions), and the parts are then laid on top of each other and the bond is made as above using moderate heat and pressure.
These guys came up too, they might be a better supplier for smaller quantities of specialist heat activated stuff: http://www.basicadhesives.com/heatact.htm
Two part polyurethane or epoxy that can be dispensed from a twin cartridge pack or twin syringe hand gun through a static mixer nozzle might be another option - you would need a good supply of spare nozzles though.
Hot melt won't allow much time for positioning.
Superglues are not waterproof, quite brittle and fume/cause blooming on smooth surfaces unless a low odour version is used. They are fast with an activator.
There are various polyurethane, acrylic and epoxy glues from industrial suppliers that cure when hit with the right frequency of UV light, and there are small hand lamps available for this. These get used mostly in electronics assembly, are not necessarily suited to larger bonds/thick glue films and a bit specialist.
ian
Last edited by ian maybury; 05-19-2012 at 5:41 PM.
[QUOTE=Joe Hillmann; I have played with hot glue and it works but often times at shows electric either costs $10 more per day or isn't available at all.
QUOTE]
I run one of my scroll saws , a fan and a sander at street fairs using a battery and an inverter. Got them localy at a "Battery Joes"
...................I run it for 10 hours or so and recharge when I get home.
No PHD, but I have a DD 214
Back when I did a lot of scroll sawing I used Aleene's Tacky Glue. It seems to dry rather quickly and worked well for me.
Sid
Sid Matheny
McMinnville, TN
What are you using for a battery?
[QUOTE=Jim Finn;1929848]Originally Posted by Joe Hillmann; I have played with hot glue and it works but often times at shows electric either costs $10 more per day or isn't available at all.
QUOTE
Universal M-300 (35 Watt CO2)
Universal X-660 (50 Watt CO2)
Hans (35 watt YAG)
Electrox Cobra (40 watt YAG)
Glass With Class, Cameron, Wisconsin
I computed the amp. draw of my equipment and length of time I wanted to run it, and bought a deep cycle battery capable of running my stuff. I also sized the inverter that way. The battery I ended up with is a bit smaller than a car battery is and a little larger than most motorcycle batteries. It measures 8"x 5" x 6" tall and is rated at 35 Amp hours. 12 volt. (Universal brand UB12350) The inverter will run 3.3 amps.(400 watts) To double check my computations I told the guy at the battery store what I wanted and he confirmed what I had figured. I had a 6 amp charger to recharge the battery, already.
No PHD, but I have a DD 214
If doing the shows this summer go as well as they did last year I plan to eventually have a similar set up, running the laser from a pair of deep cycle batteries, I realize that that is completely off topic from my original question but since it is my thread I think it is ok to hijack.
Universal M-300 (35 Watt CO2)
Universal X-660 (50 Watt CO2)
Hans (35 watt YAG)
Electrox Cobra (40 watt YAG)
Glass With Class, Cameron, Wisconsin