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Thread: Finishing my office - advice needed

  1. #1

    Finishing my office - advice needed

    I am getting near finishing my office desk. See the pic below. It is a built in corner unit the main top from wall to wall and the side bench from the wall butting up to the main top. The top is solid core (falcata) veneer with walnut veneer on top. The walnut veneer is very thin. I bought the top material on the net in Japan. So I have exposed edges I want to cover over. I want to put a solid wood walnut edge strip on the top's front edges. I want to have the inside corner mitered. the top is 30mm and the edge strip I was thinking of 1/2" to 3/4" wide. the cabinets are made and the desk top is set into position (using it now actually with thin ply to protect it - need my office)

    I need to cut the cable holes and then fit the edge strip - walnut just arrived.

    My Office desk - Copy.jpg

    Questions:

    What is the best way to finish this?
    1. Apply finish and then install the top and then the edge strips?
    2. Install the top and edge strips (banding) and then finish in-situ? (I am think this way)
    3. best way to attach the edge strip - scres front the front with plugs (have the LV plug cutter) or glue and hold in place with tape?
    4. I can't use clamps if I install the strips on site (wall) which I think I need to do to use a mitered inside corner.


    What is a good finish to apply?
    • I have no spray equipment.
    • It is a small room (1700mm x 1700mm)
    • Easy to apply
    • Not too strong on the smell as it is off the bedroom and my wife might get upset if it stink for a week.
    • durable enough for a desk - not an abused desk - so supper hard is not neccessary - I'll look after it.


    Can I apply oil finish to very thin veneer? (0.3mm)


    Thanks for your help,
    Rob
    Last edited by Robert Trotter; 06-13-2012 at 10:17 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Presently in Knoxville TN.
    Posts
    361
    I would advise you to attach the edge strips [duct tape and glue] sand well and finish with a wipe on aqueous poly [2 coats only] since it will be kept well by yourself. first off i would dry fit the tops to make sure your seems or anything else will not give you problems come time to final assembly.
    Sincerely,

    S.Q.P - SAM - CHEMMY.......... Almost 50 years in this art and trade and counting...

  3. #3
    Thanks for the reply Sheldon. Not an expert but I am right in assuming an aqueous poly is a water based polyurethane?
    Sorry, in Japan, for me, finding some of the things people use is a bit hard...But wipe-on means poly thinned down with thinner or water for a waterbased poly??

    Rob

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    San Francisco, CA
    Posts
    10,323
    I'd edgeband the top, then install. Edgeband with material that's wider than the plywood thickness, then trim flush. I glue it on with conventional wood glue, clamps, and a caul. You sound like you've already cut the plywood to size, but I'd make the edgebanding thinner than you're suggesting. Getting it flush without going through the veneer is easier with the thinner banding.

    You might consider shellac for the finish. It has little smell, and it is easy to apply. It is more sensitive to water and alcohol than, say, varnish, but for a desk used by an adult, it is okay.
    To my eye, walnut is one of the woods that looks much better under a solvent-based finish than under a waterborne. Under waterborne, it looks washed out. Under varnish or shellac, it has a deeper color. Maybe your eye is different from mine, but I'd strongly recommend a test panel before you do the real thing.

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