Opinions requested: "Attractive" surface mount molding for shop / garage power wiring

[Prashun Patel]

I would run surface mount EMT. It's a garage. As long as the job is neat, it'll look plenty fine (IMHO). It will also be the easiest thing to modify later if you want to add more cowbell.

[Jerry Hillenburg]

Jerry,

Some of what you suggest likely violates local building codes and it would certainly weaken the framing of the garage walls.

When you're running NM cable ("Romex" is a brand of said cable), the cable needs to be protected from damage. If the cable isn't going to be deep enough, you'd need to stall nail plates at every stud and that still wouldn't prevent screws attaching boxes to the 3/4 board.

Cutting a notch in a stud effectively reduces the strength of the stud to the smallest portion of the stud. Granted, vertical studs in walls aren't as bad as floor/ceiling joists, but notching framing members is just wrong

Jim,

I agree with the suggestion about cutting out 24" strips of sheetrock, wiring where you can get at the studs and then fixing the sheetrock. It'll definitely cost less (and probably go faster) than dealing with all of the individual conductors run in raceway.

Rob

Rob,

I have found the ability to modify my shop's electrical system crucial because of new equipment and equipment being moved to different locations. A good shop is always changing and evolving - a good shop is adaptable to your future needs. I believe most woodworkers reading this post will never be able to say, "My shop is completed, no more modifications."

Modifying the electrical system to meet your future needs could easily be accomplished by what I have suggested. All the chair-rail is removable because it is attached to the studs with screws above and below the slot where the wiring is located. The attaching of the chair-rail to the wall posses no risk of fastener damage to the wiring.

It is important to note that what I have suggested locates the receptacle boxes flush with, and on the drywall, above or below the chair-rail and they are installed by using the slot for access to the stud cavity. They are NOT installed on the chair-rail.

I favor installing the wiring in the slot by running it where the drywall was. My local building code says, "In exterior walls and load bearing partitions, any wood stud may be cut or notched to a depth not to exceed 25% of it's width." That is a whopping 7/8" deep notch for a 3 ½" stud! This language is a copy of a phrase in Section R602.6 of the International Code Council. If you Google this exact phrase you will get thousands of hits from building code enforcement agencies across America. It is likely that your local building code will have the exact same language - check your local building code. For our purposes, you really do not need to notch the studs a whopping 7/8". Notch out the studs the 1/4" or so you would need to run MC cable - if you run Romex you may not need to notch at all.

I think a strong argument could made to the building inspector that you have created a wire chase by creating a chair-rail and slot with the wiring running where the drywall was. All the wiring that is close to the surface is known to be behind your chair-rail chase cover. If the inspector does't allow this then you could cover the slot with heavy gauge metal and install chair-rail over it, or use heavy gauge metal as your chair-rail in place of the 3/4" X 5 1/2" chair-rail. If inspector doesn't allow any wiring running in the slot where the drywall was, an alternative, as I suggested, would be to use the slot for access to the studs for drilling holes in the center of the studs for the wire runs. I would not like doing this because insulation batts would be compressed and modifying the wiring in the future would be more difficult.

I feel knowing where your wires are in the walls (behind your chair-rail) is safer than installing them and mudding them in thus hiding their locations. Shops require hanging things on the wall - it is nice to know where your wiring is. Also, cutting out sheetrock for access then mudding back in does not give the flexibility of change that I feel is so important to a shop.

In summary, I feel however you wire your shop, the way I have suggested or another way, you would be wise to do it in a way that is easily modified and adaptable to your future shop electrical needs.

[Michael W. Clark]

Regarding the chair rail idea, would it be absolutely necessary to notch the studs? Seems like you could take two rips of plywood and pocket screw it to the stud on edge making a top/bottom ledge, then attach the face of the chair-rail flat to the plywood. I'm not sure if this would classify as a raceway, so not sure if there is any limit on the number of conductors that could be contained in it. Also seems like you could mount your outlet boxes between the stud cavities using remodel boxes either in the wall on the chair rail face strip.

In new construction, or maybe this instance, why not use a drop ceiling with EMT or fished wires behind the wall? It would be a good place to hide ductwork, air lines, wires, etc. and would be easy to modifiy in the future. Probably not the cheapest solution though, but in new construction you wouldn't have the cost of drywalling the ceiling.

Edit: One con I thought of to the drop ceiling (I'm sure there may be others) is that you would want to minimize any dust accumulation above the tiles. This could pose a fire hazzard. Maybe there is a way to do it with a better seal around the tiles? Maybe use wood panels instead of tiles, but then cost/labor weight issue.

Mike

[Ron Sayers]

I think Jerry's chair rail idea would be remarkably functional, if it would pass code. The two concerns that I would have are:
Would it be construed as a wooden raceway (I don't think they are allowed)? How would a new owner know what you had done? Having wires in a place that no one would reasonably expect them to be is generally a problem. You can't count on being there to tell somebody to never put a nail in that board in the garage. I have an electrician coming out next week to discuss my wiring needs and I will ask if this is a possible consideration.

[Greg Portland]

I'm looking for a solution where the materials alone won't kill me, as a rough calc with one supplier of commercial wiremold had the molding & receptacle boxes exceeding $1,500, which is more than I'd like to spend. What have been your experiences? Any brand / model or series recommendation? Living in Alaska, shipping on anything mail-order will be impractical due to freight rates; I just don't need bulletproof.

Opinions and advice welcome!!

Jim in Alaska

I installed Wiremold 4000 series through my 28x40ft shop for < $1k (not including the wire). IMO it is an exceptional product. Some tips to reduce your cost:

1) You don't need 4000 series to each drop. At the end of your run the total number of wires in the conduit will be significantly less so you could use 2000 or 3000 series.
2) Bends and corners are expensive. Try to plan out your electrical routing to minimize this.
3) You don't need Wiremold in every corner of your shop. Plan your electrical needs intelligently. For example, I have 4000 down one wall + I use 30A extension cords to the tools in the middle of my floor. Down the other wall I use small conduit (under cab lighting, 2 20A for tools).
4) For the ceiling lighting circuits consider 500 or 700 series Wiremold raceway... it is powder coated and will match the larger conduits. Painted EMT may be even cheaper.
5) You do not need the expensive shears to cut the Wiremold. A metal chop saw (real metal blade, not a demolition blade) or a jig saw with a metal blade + guide will make a clean cut. Use some 80 grit or a fine file to take off the burrs.

Since I installed the product a few years ago I've moved 2 circuits and added a 3rd. This is the real advantage of the raceway.

I have my dust collection setup for work stations; there are just three 6" drops in the system. At any given time I can have 3 tools connected... when they are not in use they are rolled against the wall. I was considering running my electric along the ceiling and then having an extension cord drop down next to the DC drop. The position of my existing lighting prevented this. You might want to consider this method.

[Greg Portland]

I think Jerry's chair rail idea would be remarkably functional, if it would pass code. The two concerns that I would have are:
Would it be construed as a wooden raceway (I don't think they are allowed)? How would a new owner know what you had done? Having wires in a place that no one would reasonably expect them to be is generally a problem. You can't count on being there to tell somebody to never put a nail in that board in the garage. I have an electrician coming out next week to discuss my wiring needs and I will ask if this is a possible consideration.

If the wall acts as a fire break then there may be some (code) problems.

[John Lifer]

With any Notch even it you cover with a chair rail, you should cover each of the notches with a metal plate PER CODE.
the chair rail is only cosmetic. You MUST protect the wire, as was stated, you won't be there when someone puts a nail thru the rail and into a wire.

[Michael W. Clark]

I wouldn't be a big fan of the notches, especially making them all. It seems like a LOT of work to have to notch every stud with a jig saw or multiple cuts with a circ saw. Plus, it WILL weaken the wall if evey stud is notched. Its not just the material removed, it creates a stress concentration, especially with a sharp-edged notch like you would get from a circ saw.

It seems like the simplist thing would be to use EMT and paint it to match the walls. Its exposed so you can modify it, people are familiar with it, and it wouldn't be much (if any) more expensive than using NM cable buried in the walls. The key would be to minimize fittings and use a conduit bender. I don't know for sure, but EMT would be faster, more structurally sound, and more likely to pass inspection than notching all the studs and making a custom chase.

If I was going to do the custom chase, I would do a plywood box on top of the drywall with a screwed on cover. But you still have the issue John pointed out with the nails, so it would have to have a minimum depth, the wire would need to be retained to the back of the chase, and you would still need to convice the inspector that the method is acceptable. I would talk with the inspector before committing.

The wiremold Greg mentions is a commercially avaialble product. So the decision between it and EMT comes down to the balance between $$, functionality, aesthetics, and personal preference.

Just my $0.02.
Mike

[Jerry Hillenburg]

As I suggested, if you or the inspector are uncomfortable notching the studs for a wire way, an alternative would be to use the removable chair-rail with the drywall slot behind it for access so you can install the wiring in holes through the center of the studs. This would be no different than cutting out drywall installing the cable, then mudding drywall back - EXCEPT the chair-rail is easily removable for future wire modifications.

My now idle commercial shop is all EMT and I like it that way. But Jim Neeley who started this thread said, "My wife would not be a fan of surface mounting EMT conduit or armored cabling." This causes me to conclude his wife thinks EMT is industrial looking and not appropriate for their home garage shop (my wife would agree with her). He was looking for a way to install his system with a more finished look.

As I said earlier, I strongly feel however you wire your shop, the way I have suggested or another way, you would be wise to do it in a way that is easily modified and adaptable to your future shop electrical needs. I believe most woodworkers reading this post will never be able to say, "My shop is completed, no more modifications."

[Michael W. Clark]

As I suggested, if you or the inspector are uncomfortable notching the studs for a wire way, an alternative would be to use the removable chair rail with the drywall slot behind it for access so you can install the wiring in holes through the center of the studs. This would be no different than cutting out drywall installing the cable, then mudding drywall back - EXCEPT the chair rail is easily removable for future wire modifications.

My shop is all EMT and I like it that way. But Jim Neeley who started this thread said, "My wife would not be a fan of surface mounting EMT conduit or armored cabling." He was looking for a way to install his system with a more finished look than "industrial looking" EMT.

As I said earlier, I strongly feel however you wire your shop, the way I have suggested or another way, you would be wise to do it in a way that is easily modified and adaptable to your future shop electrical needs. I believe most woodworkers reading this post will never be able to say, "My shop is completed, no more modifications."

Jerry,
I completely agree. I forgot about the "no EMT" caveat, this thread is a couple of years old. Good idea on the chair rail, but you may have to make provisions for fire-rating. Most garage walls that share a wall with the living space are required to be continuously covered with drywall or some other material with a similar fire/heat rating. Maybe a drywall insert behind the chair-rail on the applicable walls?

Eidt: I don't think any inspector would like the wire layed directly on top of the studs in the space where the drywall was. Maybe they would allow it if the chair-rail was heavy gauge metal, but then we are back to the industrial look that the OP wanted to stay away from. If EMT is out, I would look at something like Wiremold. If the price of that is out, then talk to the inspector about some options. Probably a good idea to talk with the inspector regardless which route is taken as they will have to sign off eventually. Things usually go smoother if they are involved in the front-end.

[Kent A Bathurst]

With all due respect to the Interior Design Police in your household..........

First - it is a garage. I mean, really. Home and Garden Magazine may well come to your house for a photo shoot, but they will skip the garage.

Second - I would go with Rod and Prashun on the surface-mount EMT simply because it will, without question, survive a direct hit from a 2 x 4, a wayward nail/screw, a machine being pushed around, and a whatever. Also, if it were me, I would pick a number - say mebbe 10 feet, or whatever a std length of EMT works out to be after curves into the boxes - and every 10 feet put in a junction box. Simply "because". You will likely be the first guy ever in the history of shops that gets everything right the first time at bat, and it will be exactly right for the next XX years, through shop re-orgs, new tools, etc. But for the rest of us droogies - well..................it just never seems to turn out that way.

BTW - with the conduit, when you go nutso on a big HP planer, sander, whatever, you can easily run some 10 ga wire where you need it.

Just sayin'.................

[Paul McGaha]

I'd do it in surface mounted EMT. When professionally installed it will look fine in a shop.

For sure I would not open the walls or the ceilings at this point to rough in the electrical work.

PHM

[Steve Meliza]

The thread is only a few months old so Jim may not have found a solution yet. Running the wiring hidden is at odds with the flexibility that we often need and I don't think wooden raceways are the way to go as you now mess with fire code as well as needing air flow to cool all those wires, not to mention giving the inspector cause to pause and think of how you might be violating code in ways that we haven't even thought of yet. If you don't see your wiring idea being done by professionals then there's probably a reason why.

In my garage I had the old wall covering off for replacement (3/8" particle board) and was replacing it with 1/2" OSB. Not only did SWMBO give a good suggestion of hanging the OSB so that the printing was upside down and hence less noticeable, she saw no problems with me making two runs of 1/2" EMT about 55" off the floor even though I could have easily run NM cable through the studs. Rather than assuming your wife won't like EMT, find out if it would bother her and where. Odds are you can run EMT from the panel tight to the ceiling and painted white so she doesn't see it then when you get the the shop area you can make vertical drops as needed, painted or not. I've only been married 2 years so I won't presume to know anything about communicating with a spouse, but I find if I make her come out to the garage and listen while I explain my various options she'll either give me a good suggestion or say "do whatever you want" and run back in the house before I bore her to death.

EDIT: I just thought of another option for partially hiding the wiring and possibly reducing costs. Instead of running each circuit back to the panel you could put a sub-panel near your work area then run a single hidden cable from it back to the main panel. This keeps all of your shop circuits short and allows you to hide the long run to the main panel without losing any flexibility.

[Jim Neeley]

First I want to thank you all for your ideas and suggestions... There have been some great ones. I think I'm going to take Alan, Jerry and Rollie (and others) idea and cut out a strip of sheet rock, add the power and re-install. In recognition of the very good point some of you have about the ever-changing shop I've decided to use 10/3 wire thoughout and home-run each shop outlet as it will let me retrofit *any* outlet from 120V 20A to 240 30A by just replacing the receptacle on one end and the breaker on the other. That will cover me for up to 5hp motors all over. Heck, I could even split an outlet to two circuits at any time in the future if I find I need an extra outlet somewhere. I'll run the wire to support a couple of 50A circuits, just in case I later decide to add a welder or the like.

It'll run a few hundred extra in copper wire, but the flexibility it'll give me will minimize the chance of my needing to tear open the wall in the future. Call it a little "insurance", as I want to spend my time working wood instead of re-wiring in the future and, you just can't have too many outlets!! <g>.

"With all due respect to the Interior Design Police in your household..........

First - it is a garage. I mean, really. Home and Garden Magazine may well come to your house for a photo shoot, but they will skip the garage. "

I have a wife who thinks it's great that I'm building my shop.. No complaints about the new Delta Unisaw two years ago, the I-R compressor last near, the ClearVue cyclone I ordered today, the Hammer A3-41 next year. She's good with the L-N hand planes, Blue Spruce chisels, drill press, bandsaw, jointer, planer, scroll saw and the 6 or 8 routers I've got. She's even told me that if I have a big project she'll park her car outside so I can use the 4th garage stall.

In all due respect, looking out for what little she requests is the *least* I can do... I've got a good one, I know it, and I like making her happy too. But then, my Bride and I have only been together for 27 years so far. Maybe, after we've been married a long time I'll see her as the "Interior Design Police in my household" too... but I doubt it!! Just sayin..

Jim

[Michael W. Clark]

First I want to thank you all for your ideas and suggestions... There have been some great ones. I think I'm going to take Alan, Jerry and Rollie (and others) idea and cut out a strip of sheet rock, add the power and re-install. In recognition of the very good point some of you have about the ever-changing shop I've decided to use 10/3 wire thoughout and home-run each shop outlet as it will let me retrofit *any* outlet from 120V 20A to 240 30A by just replacing the receptacle on one end and the breaker on the other. That will cover me for up to 5hp motors all over. Heck, I could even split an outlet to two circuits at any time in the future if I find I need an extra outlet somewhere. I'll run the wire to support a couple of 50A circuits, just in case I later decide to add a welder or the like.

It'll run a few hundred extra in copper wire, but the flexibility it'll give me will minimize the chance of my needing to tear open the wall in the future. Call it a little "insurance", as I want to spend my time working wood instead of re-wiring in the future and, you just can't have too many outlets!! <g>.

"With all due respect to the Interior Design Police in your household..........

First - it is a garage. I mean, really. Home and Garden Magazine may well come to your house for a photo shoot, but they will skip the garage. "

I have a wife who thinks it's great that I'm building my shop.. No complaints about the new Delta Unisaw two years ago, the I-R compressor last near, the ClearVue cyclone I ordered today, the Hammer A3-41 next year. She's good with the L-N hand planes, Blue Spruce chisels, drill press, bandsaw, jointer, planer, scroll saw and the 6 or 8 routers I've got. She's even told me that if I have a big project she'll park her car outside so I can use the 4th garage stall.

In all due respect, looking out for what little she requests is the *least* I can do... I've got a good one, I know it, and I like making her happy too. But then, my Bride and I have only been together for 27 years so far. Maybe, after we've been married a long time I'll see her as the "Interior Design Police in my household" too... but I doubt it!! Just sayin..

Jim

Jim, congratulations on 27 years! My wife and I have been married 13 this December. My wife is very supportive as well of my hobby and I am truly grateful for that. I totally understand making her happy if that is what she asks for in return. However, I would check on the method you are proposing to make sure it meets local codes. I think you can get the look youand your wife want, but you may have to drill the studs to run the wires as mentioned previously, then put a sheetrock insert on the back of the molding to keep a continuous firebreak. Good luck and enjoy your new shop.

Mike