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Thread: Cleaning/finishing old wood (Typesetters trays)...few questions

  1. #1

    Cleaning/finishing old wood (Typesetters trays)...few questions

    Hi guys,
    I'm a graphic designer and I recently bought about 55 old printers/typesetters trays to clean/fix up for a summer project.
    I have a little experience with woodworking, but not a ton.
    Here are my questions:

    1. Some of the boxes are in bad shape and have gotten wet at some point. Some of them have mold (yellow).
    What is the best way to simply clean wood? I want to clean all of them, even the ones without mold. Is it OK to clean with water? I have heard to use a mixture of water and soap or water and bleach for the mold. Is this the best way to go about this?

    2. I would like to put some kind of natural finish on these. I really want something simple just to make the wood pop. I don't want it to be shiny or have a strong sheen...and I don't want it to be oily or smell. Ideally these will be hanging in people's houses. I want it to look natural...just not old and lifeless like they do now.
    I am thinking maybe danish oil or tung oil...but I have no real experience with finishes...so any input is much appreciated!

    Thanks so much!

    Here are a few pics of the nicer ones I am working with (I forgot to grab a pic of the moldy ones before I wrapped them up)

    photo (5).jpgphoto (6).jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Presently in Knoxville TN.
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    Zack, I'd really like to be of help, but with what little info you provide it's difficult. I can't make out the construction, no indication if the backs come of, whether the dividers are just glued in place or what? on top of that no pics of yellow mold - yellow molds are what were responsible for the "golden oak" craze to begin with, it normally is found on oak, but i cant tell if there is oak on these or not, the only pic I see that would indicate it may be, looks more like ash or chestnut than oak? I think your correct as to this being a whole summer project though.
    Sincerely,

    S.Q.P - SAM - CHEMMY.......... Almost 50 years in this art and trade and counting...

  3. #3
    Thanks Sheldon,

    I basically just need a good way to clean wood in general, and a good natural finish that doesn't really have a strong sheen.
    These things aren't worth a ton of money, I just want a fast way to clean them up and revitalize them a little bit...so I don't need any crazy procedures or anything
    Also, they definitely are not all the same type of wood.
    Thanks!

    I will probably clean all of them first. When I do that I will take more pictures.

    I'm just not even sure how to go about cleaning the wood...
    Last edited by Zack Hurley; 06-29-2012 at 10:47 AM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
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    Presently in Knoxville TN.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zack Hurley View Post
    Thanks Sheldon,

    I basically just need a good way to clean wood in general, and a good natural finish that doesn't really have a strong sheen.
    These things aren't worth a ton of money, I just want a fast way to clean them up and revitalize them a little bit...so I don't need any crazy procedures or anything
    Also, they definitely are not all the same type of wood.
    Thanks!

    I will probably clean all of them first. When I do that I will take more pictures.

    I'm just not even sure how to go about cleaning the wood...
    That's why my questions zack, without knowing how there put together it's hard to say, if glued with hide glue hot water or standing warm water could loosen all or most of the joints you see? I would normally tell you to use TSP followed by oxalic acid and then nuetralized with sodium carbonate, but without knowing how the put together i can't without possibly ruining the structural members as to glue. Also, if you use water base cleaners and the backs don't come off, you could pool the material and end up with dark spots or light spots depending on what you might use. You could try a solvent/water mix like 9 parts den alcohol and detergent whith a couple of water alcohol wash offs which would keep the problem to a minimum, but only do one first to see the outcome before moving forward ok? sanding of course will help alot also once you get most of the crud and mold off, mold can usually be removed with pool chlorine a stronger mix than clorox.
    Sincerely,

    S.Q.P - SAM - CHEMMY.......... Almost 50 years in this art and trade and counting...

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by sheldon pettit View Post
    That's why my questions zack, without knowing how there put together it's hard to say, if glued with hide glue hot water or standing warm water could loosen all or most of the joints you see? I would normally tell you to use TSP followed by oxalic acid and then nuetralized with sodium carbonate, but without knowing how the put together i can't without possibly ruining the structural members as to glue. Also, if you use water base cleaners and the backs don't come off, you could pool the material and end up with dark spots or light spots depending on what you might use. You could try a solvent/water mix like 9 parts den alcohol and detergent whith a couple of water alcohol wash offs which would keep the problem to a minimum, but only do one first to see the outcome before moving forward ok? sanding of course will help alot also once you get most of the crud and mold off, mold can usually be removed with pool chlorine a stronger mix than clorox.
    OK, ya I see. Definitely didn't think just cleaning the wood would be so complicated! haha. Glad I asked.
    As far as I can tell the joints were glued.
    So I can just take a sponge with some mild detergent/water and wash them down? That's what several people have suggested

  6. #6
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    As i said, i would use a 9-1 alcohol mix to keep grain rasing to a minimum and put maybe 5% liquid soap into it as a surfactant and sudser to help remove any and all water soluble materials ok? you could also try hand sanitizers if you find out on a sample run the water is affecting it in bad ways.
    Sincerely,

    S.Q.P - SAM - CHEMMY.......... Almost 50 years in this art and trade and counting...

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    I would suggest cleaning it with mineral spirit (or GoJo cream hand cleaner) first to get rid of wax and other stuff that the soapy water will not remove, then go to the alcohol and water with soap.
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

  8. #8
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    You can try a mixture of 1 gallon of water, 1 cup of bleach and 1 cup of trisodiumphosphate. Mix it throughly and apply it with a sprayer and brush all of the pieces of wood. Rinse it off before it dries.

    Bill

  9. #9
    Thanks guys!
    So it's safe to completely rinse the wood with a hose or sprayer? Should I hand dry it or air dry it?
    Thanks again

  10. #10
    Zack, if you pick the worst tray in your lot and soak it with water and the joints don't come apart you'll know if water-based cleaning will damage the construction of the others. If they are glued with hide glue water and heat may loosen the glue. Whichever method you end up using, I'd definitely test one tray before committing to it, water-based or not.

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by John McPhail View Post
    Zack, if you pick the worst tray in your lot and soak it with water and the joints don't come apart you'll know if water-based cleaning will damage the construction of the others. If they are glued with hide glue water and heat may loosen the glue. Whichever method you end up using, I'd definitely test one tray before committing to it, water-based or not.
    Ya, I will definitely test first. Luckily I have a lot to test on! I'm pretty sure they are glued.

  12. #12
    Peronally, I wouldn't clean them beyond a wipe with a damp cloth.

    They have the patina of decades of hard use. I'd not want to screw that up.

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Thien View Post
    Peronally, I wouldn't clean them beyond a wipe with a damp cloth.

    They have the patina of decades of hard use. I'd not want to screw that up.
    Ya, I agree. I want to keep them as original as possible...but I also want to get rid of the mold..as ideally these will be in my/other people's homes.

    Would you suggest not doing any finishing either as far as oils go?
    Thanks!

  14. #14
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    After a thorough cleaning you might want to spray one with a light coat of super blonde dewaxed shellac. A couple light coats will seal in any smells and not build a thick finish. Shellac will stick to just about anything. Only thing I know of that it wont stick to is the shellac stick "balm" used with a burn-in knife.

    There is a product called "Shellac Flat" (homesteadfinishing sells it) that will give you a satin or flat sheen withthe shellac.

    I've done this on driftwood that I wanted to seal and enhance the color and grain a bit.
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

  15. #15
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    Might want to pickup a lead testing kit too.

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