And again, vintagemachinery can come to the rescue.
http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/Pai...owermatic.ashx
And again, vintagemachinery can come to the rescue.
http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/Pai...owermatic.ashx
Never, under any circumstances, consume a laxative and sleeping pill, on the same night
Van, thanks for the bearing source. Scott Redmond recommended that I get the belt from Motion Industries - there is a location locally, but not being a regular customer they stick it to you. I hope to find an off the shelf match for the paint - cheaper. I may repaint my PM66 table saw and PM30B sander and it would be nice to have cheap and easy paint. I hate to do it, but my HVLP may see some action - it is easier to rattle a can.
Kirk, Sounds like you have a REALY nice PM DP. I have a wire brush, never used a braded one. I will give it a try.
Myk, thanks for the link. It has the green formula in industrial paint, and the metallic yellow is the 80s paint which is now on my DP - I do not particularly care for that color. Maybe I should get Scherwin Williams to color-match my PM 201 planer (which is PM's current color) in an industrial enamel paint and post the formula on OWWM and here.
Kirk, I like clean and easy - hence my spray can search. Can you elaborate on how you would get around an easy to use rattle can? Thanks
Last edited by Jerry Hillenburg; 07-03-2012 at 4:11 PM.
It just hit me you can probably get mustard from PM in a rattke can but the prices would be "parts" prices so probably in the $10 a can range maybe more with shipping. The only PM color that can be found close in a rattle can is the Evergreen, which also happens to be my favorite PM color but actually Mustard is second, the only PM color I don't like is the old pea green UNLESS it is on a "perfect" survivor machine like the PM141 I saw last month, it look almost majestic in its almost "as from factory" original state, wish thay hadn't wanted so much for it and I would have another PM 141!
Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.
Deep thought for the day:
Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.
Van, PM wants $15 a can for their mustard. With shipping the can would cost at least $20.
Catepillar yellow by Valspar seems to be close match.
A guy posted on another wood site saying, " I found Rust-Oleum Farm Equipment Yellow in my hardware store and it is a very close match. If I make clean mask-off lines and finish a surface I can't tell the difference." I will confirm his claim when I find a can of it.
http://www.woodcentral.com/woodworki...-who-sells-it/
I am trying to match to my PM 201 planer that is nearly 10 years old - it may have faded some.
Last edited by Jerry Hillenburg; 07-03-2012 at 7:56 PM.
Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.
Deep thought for the day:
Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.
Van, I took no offense in any way to your comments. After rereading what I had said, I can see why you might have thought I did. I really do know next to nothing about VFDs. The only reason I even posted to this thread was the fact that he had a Baldor motor, and I thought I could provide some extra info about it. And to offer at least a link to someone here at Baldor who could offer advice.
Oh, and BTW: What is that thing on your face?????
Larry J Browning
There are 10 kinds of people in this world; Those who understand binary and those who don't.
I just wanted you to know I wasn't being a butt head, sometimes the way I express ny curiosity sounds more like I am trying to be authoratative as opposed to curious.
The things on my face are goggles and a high altitude oygen mask, I have used oxygen when climbing above 26,000 ft I am unfortunately not one of the supermen who could climb 8,000 meter peaks without "supplemental Os".
Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.
Deep thought for the day:
Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.
Anybody know where to get a vBelt for the 1150VS?
You also be able to take the old belt to most any auto parts stores and match it up.
One of these may be it... Without knowing your original part number it's hard to say for sure.
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/vs-belt-p-1580137.html
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/bel...bldhu9e5juq6a1
Last edited by Kevin W Johnson; 05-28-2015 at 4:57 PM.