Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 20 of 20

Thread: How to paint beautiful mahogany shutters dark green - and have it stick.

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Northern Michigan
    Posts
    4,973
    I often do as you are thinking, prefinishing the parts with mating surfaces masked and it works for me. Much less of a pain on something like shutters with so many hard to reach places.

    I use epoxy primers under other finishes quite often. I actually use automotive finishes, and on stuff I am really worried about I use adhesion promoting primer used for urethane bumpers. A spray booth or painting outside with a very good resperator is manditory

    I have also had good success with Sherwin Williams adhesion promoting primer in the brown can, but Sherwin Williams has recently reformulated and I can't comment on the new stuff yet. There is still some of the old stuff available but dealers are pushing the no VOC stuff. http://www.sherwin-williams.com/home...=CIiT7uT0ibECF

    I have tried some of the new no VOC primer last week and it sprays well, seems to adhere well to the Versatech [plastic], but time will tell. I have the old primer out there for 15 years and no peeling, hate change! But the EPA is looking out for us.....

    I recently tried Xim UMA primer. I had a tough surface to stick to and it did that well, but when I topcoated with Grahams Ceramic the paint would not adhere to the primer well. It was not a sandable surface and it is on a ceiling so I am going to install and touch up as needed, but I won't be using it again.

    Sounds like a very cool project! I used to do a lot of restoration work until the EPA added so much to the cost. I loved making some of the grand old homes new again, exciting work.

    Larry

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Northwestern Connecticut
    Posts
    7,149
    I think the BM dealer is headed in the right direction, though the 60G suggestion may be a bit off. i'd stop at 100G for paint grade exterior. Mahogany or most of its substitutes are early open grain which keys paint quite nicely. On a very smooth closed grain oily species like cedar I'd probably go with a coarser sand to create a paint key, but no need for mahogany. I also don't understand the suggestion that mahogany is oily, it simply is not. It is rather acidic, but not oily. QSWO also paints quite nicely too, though it make me cry a bit to do so. I like the idea of pre finishing as much as possible.

    Shame the hysterical societies are always so stuck in time. I'm all for traditional aesthetics and preserving our past. But when our past crumbles into a pile of rotten saw dust on the ground, the astute open minded observer might consider achieving the same aesthetic in a different manner rather than treating the world as a giant museum? Last time I had words with, to be polite "A gentle woman of a certain age..." from a local histerical society, I suggested "Perhaps when you go to the doctor's office you would like them to treat you with the best practices from the 18th century, no? That was after all the "Golden Age" of human thinking in your mind. Put away all that pesky technology and pick up a dirty scalpel..." I've never been accused of being a politician.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Northern Michigan
    Posts
    4,973
    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Quinn View Post
    Shame the hysterical societies are always so stuck in time. I'm all for traditional aesthetics and preserving our past. But when our past crumbles into a pile of rotten saw dust on the ground, the astute open minded observer might consider achieving the same aesthetic in a different manner rather than treating the world as a giant museum? Last time I had words with, to be polite "A gentle woman of a certain age..." from a local histerical society, I suggested "Perhaps when you go to the doctor's office you would like them to treat you with the best practices from the 18th century, no? That was after all the "Golden Age" of human thinking in your mind. Put away all that pesky technology and pick up a dirty scalpel..." I've never been accused of being a politician.
    I could not agree more. I do replication in Azek/Versatech but there are historical societys that will not allow it. Mackinaw Island is one place. They have the worst weather imaginable, stuck in the middle of the Straits of Mackinaw, and wood will rot there. Especially as the wood we get now is a far cry from the wood I tear off.

    I recently restored an Italianate farmhouse and the local historical society stopped by to take a look. I made exact duplicates to the closest 1/16" of all of the original trim/columns and so forth out of Versatech. They were gushing about how no one rebuilds these old houses correctly and they were glad to see one restored to exact original. All of the trim was installed and painted at this point, and they could not tell the difference. I did not correct them but perhaps I should have at that point. But this one will still look perfect for many, many years.

    Now if I could get the same wood that they used..........

    Larry

  4. #19
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    walnut creek, california
    Posts
    2,347
    Quote Originally Posted by Larry Edgerton View Post
    They were gushing about how no one rebuilds these old houses correctly and they were glad to see one restored to exact original. All of the trim was installed and painted at this point, and they could not tell the difference. I did not correct them but perhaps I should have at that point. But this one will still look perfect for many, many years.

    Now if I could get the same wood that they used..........

    Larry
    alright, now that's worth the effort

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Long Island, New York
    Posts
    14
    Here in the northeast alot of my restoration work is done on 150+ year old farmhouses and the wood used in the built up moldings and tight grained heart pine floors is to die for. Anything salvageable I remove with care and store it at one of my shops for use on other restoration projects - saves lots of money by having the inventory of old wood to put back into an old house restoration. I should just open a storefront for these great timbers and flooring I save from the local landfill and sell it to other contractors but I love this wood too much to part with it unless I can see it's new home.

    I removed painted cedar plank siding off a 105 yr old house here on Shelter Island last month and even after running it through the planer to true up the outside face and get through the years of paint, it still had a 15/16ths thickness x 13 1/2 " width - some of the lengths were over 17 feet long! Unheard of at today's lumber yards.

    s.
    Wood is my muse. - Sean H.

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •