Latex paint and paint brushes

[Rich Engelhardt]

I don't risk sticking a brush in water for any longer than I have to.
There's too much of a chance the water will work it's way into the wood handle under the ferrel and split the wood.
If the brush has a synthetic handle, I might dunk it for a long time. I don't recall having any decent brushes w/other than a wood handle though.
I haven't dug through all the ones I put up 25 years ago when I got out of the painting business though, The might be a couple of them in the brush box.
LOL! Then agin, afet all that time being stored in the garage - the mice probably chewed them all up!

However, I don't use the spinner to eject paint as I did when using it for a roller

You mean go right from the material directly to the spinner?
I always scrape the excess paint out of the brush first or brush out as much as I can on old newspapers, then stick it in the spinner and run it under a running faucet while I slowly pump the spinner. One rinse, spin it dry, rinse it again and work the running water into the bristles, then spin it under running water again and then a final spin to dry it.

On the few occasions where the paint has started to get gummy around the ferrel, I'll work it around in a container of 50/50 ammonia and water, then do the under the faucet thing.

[Prashun Patel]

I'm probably just using a spinner wrongly.
I'm probably just rinsing my brushes wrongly too.
I'm sure I'm not anywhere near a pro, so I'll defer to you, Rich.

[John Gregory]

Van is spot on with this advice. I heard of this message sometime ago. It works great!

Soak the bristles with water good first, all the way up. You will have to load and "paint" off the first few light loadings of paint since it will be thin, plus switch brushes several times (or clean your only one) during a day. Don't overload the brush either.

[John Gregory]

This method works because the bristles are loaded with water and will not wick up the paint in the bristles in the metal ferrule. If you start with a dry brush, the bristles under the ferrule are like a sponge. The reason it takes so long to wash the paint out of the brush is due to all the paint in the bristles under the ferrule. I hope that makes sense.

Yep! Wet the brush completely before, rinse occaisionally while painting, wash with cheap old sudsy ammonia, rinse completely. I've got 10 and 15 year old brushes treated that way.
You ARE usin' synthetic bristle brushes aren't ya?
Bill

[Rick Moyer]

spinner use:

I took a five gallon bucket, cut a suitable opening in the lid and stick my brush/spinner into the covered bucket to spin dry the brush; once I have used a paint comb to remove the paint first. Solvent-paint comb-spin-store in original wrapper. works great!

[Dave Lehnert]

Like others I have found a brush spinner to be the biggest help.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Saw this on one of those morning shows about ten years ago. First load brush with water before using. Then spin to get most of water out. I then raise the toe of my foot and strike brush ferrel releasing remaining water. NEVER dip brush more than 1/3 of it's length into paint, tap on side of container to remove excess paint. Do not scrape across paint can rim as this fills brush to core. When finished painting, take about a quart of water in a gallon bucket, and add about 2 ounces of the cheapest fabric softener you can find. Swish brush in mixture for about 10 seconds, take out and rinse with clear water. In my business, I often do siding replacement. All cuts get primed and siding gets first coated on the bench. This way, repairs don't look like a band aid on side of house till painter gets there. Some days I may clean my brushes as many as 25 times.

[Mike OMelia]

All very useful points. But what I have learned more than anything is that an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Thank you!! Points well taken.

Gonna preload brushes, switch them out often and clean often. Gonna use ammonia, and a spinner. Never overload the brush with paint. And use a brush comb.

Mike