What's the infatuation with polyurethane?

[Bill White]

I'm sure that this will start an explosion of responses, but I fail to see the need for poly on every darned thing built. Sure, table tops and high use areas, but everything?
I use a lot of wiping varnish and shellac trying to replicate the classic finishes.
Am I missing something?
Bill (who is now assuming the fetal position)

[John Coloccia]

It's quick and easy to apply. Not everyone cares about replicating classic finishes. I think most people tend to use what they have laying around as long as there's no reason not to use it.

[Jim Rimmer]

As an experienced woodworker who was finish-ignorant for a long time, let me put in my 2 cents. I have been doing woodwork for 40+ years but until a few years ago had only scratched the surface of what could be done and what was available. The internet has made a huge difference in my ww'ing knowledge. I made some lovely pieces and refinished a lot of nice pieces and finished them with poly. Until I stumbled on to SMC (and got my kids out of the house so I had more time) I didn't really get "into" fine woodworking. So, the large number of folks who dabble in ww'ing as i did and are only exposed to what is available at the BORG and do not access the wonderful help, suggestions and possibilities here at SMC, it appears that poly is the only finish available.

I'm not as negative about poly as some; I think it can be used to make some great finishes. However, now that I have a great circle of friends with knowledge and experience, I am trying different finishes and finding out how well they work. If your only advice comes from the TV make-over gurus and the "experts" at the BORG, poly is the way to go.

[Prashun Patel]

Polyurethane might be cheaper to make than other varnishes. We can debate its aesthetic shortcomings, but most people don't notice it, and it doesn't scratch quite as easily as 'harder' varnishes, which means it resists abrasion better too.

Even the finishing gurus here think poly has a place - on floors - because of its abrasion resistance.

A lot of professional woodworkers give short shrift to finishing. I'm surprised how many I've met that have a couple go-to finishes and have a misconception about its properties.

[glenn bradley]

I fail to see the need for poly on every darned thing built.

I was unaware of this requirement. I have been doing it wrong all this time . I do use a little rattle can poly for surfaces that will get abuse. Beyond that I pretty much avoid the stuff. You can't rub it out, it looks like a plastic candy shell but, it does survive spilled martinis. I say use it where appropriate; I just have a specific opinion about what appropriate is . As to the cost, once I have a few hundred dollars of materials into a piece, I am really not effected by the delta between $12 or $36 for a quart of finish.

[Jefferey Scott]

It's Norm Abram's fault...

[Dale Cruea]

I am not a finishing expert by anyone's opinion. Poly works where poly is needed. I personally don't like poly for most things. If I put many hours in a project then cover it with poly just does not seem right to me.
I like oil a lot. I dislike the rubbing but I like the look.
I will use wipe om poly for some things. It does not look so plastic.
For most projects I think if you are going to put poly on a nice project you might as well paint it. Just my opinion.

[Prashun Patel]

I'd rather apply poly well than a better finish poorly. A better product does not always a better finish make.

Ive seen poly finishes that look as nice as any other varnish. I also know that nakashima and Sam mall of both used polyurethane to good effect.

[sheldon pettit]

I use very little of what is mentioned here as "poly" most of what is meant as "oil modified" polymerized urethane, such as at the BB stores. such as mudwax or others. On the other-hand, 2K [two component] Urethane's, are a completely different story, though none are of a wipe on type of finish, spray only mainly. those can be manipulated to look like a varnish or lacquer or even other coatings, including a simulated oil affect, when severely thinned. I don't bring them up here though because of cost and many not having spray equipment of a professional type. There is a whole gamut of urethane coatings that will out perform virtually any other coating out there, but if and when mistakes are made there costly to repair or refinish as compared to lacquers or varnishes or natural resins like shellac.

[John TenEyck]

If you are able to apply it with the equipment you have, or none at all, it meets your performance and durability requirements, and it looks good to you, does it really matter what's in it?

John

[sheldon pettit]

If you are able to apply it with the equipment you have, or none at all, it meets your performance and durability requirements, and it looks good to you, does it really matter what's in it?

John

Well, if that is your decision and all you require, then "no" it doesn't matter. If on the other hand things such as longevity and ease of repair and non darking of the resin coating come into play, then "yes" it does

[Rich Engelhardt]

What's the infatuation with polyurethane?

Marketing - pure and simple marketing.

The word "polyurethane" became synonymous with tough, hard, nearly indestructible & easily applied to give excellent results.
It actually was (and in some cases still is) able to deliver on that promise for a good three decades - 1950's, 1960's, 1970's.
Widespread reformulations of coatings in the mid 1980's changed things somewhat & the polyurethanes of today are a much different product.
Some better, some worse, some different but still the same performance.

Products such as DuPont Imron, S&W Polane and the whole slew of aliphatic and aromatic moisture cured urethanes are legendary for their performance.
Imron and Polane used to be single component products. I believe both are two part products today.

Next time you visit a borg, try to scratch the floor. That shiny hard tough finish is a moisture cured urethane. It's harder than the concrete underneath. You can literally bust the concrete with a hammer through the finish and not damage the finish - I've seen it done in a demonstration.

Bottom line though is that through marketing, the paint and coatings industry has steered customers into asking for a can of poly instead of a can of varnish.
It really is that simple..

[David Hawxhurst]

i have spray equipment. can you recommend a 2k system that looks like varnish or lacquer?

[sheldon pettit]

i have spray equipment. can you recommend a 2k system that looks like varnish or lacquer?

No 2K system out of the can will look like lacquer, but will look like varnish if you have the supplier tint it for you to an varnish ambertone look. same if copying a lacquer look ok? My all time favorite is Delta Labs 2k, which is designed for wood both interior or exterior above the waterline. It has UVA's and Hals added to keep it from degredation from the sun. 2nd choice would be Duponts 2K's but i dont have a specific name or product number for the one i used.

[David Hawxhurst]

do you have product name for the delta lab 2k stuff?