Reviving old finish on carved piece?

[Peter Hawser]

Having read a nice article in the last FWW, "Reviving an Old Finish" I'm wondering if I am biting off more than I can (or should) chew. We have a nice old piece from my grandmother's house, probably from the 30s or 40s. As you can see in the pics it has a lot of carving. The table top is under a glass cover and the veneer, marquetry and finish there is in great shape (pic 1 with glass on, pic 3 with glass off). However, on the carved parts on the top, there are problems where the finish has worn off (the article, while very useful, seems to only discuss techniques for nice flat pieces). I have yet to try the lacquer thinner and alcohol test, but I'm not sure it is either (though the top seems to have a different finish). Either way, I thought I would check here first with the experts (you people amaze me endlessly). What steps would you take in trying to revive the finish on this piece? FYI, grandma was a maniac with furniture polish and dusting.


P.S. I'm guessing all the carving was in some way automated vs hand carved? Or maybe not? How can you tell? You see, my grandmother's two sisters had the same table - all gifts from their mom. This is the only one left. So, even if it isn't a super valuable old piece, I like it and want to take care of it.

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[sheldon pettit]

Having read a nice article in the last FWW, "Reviving an Old Finish" I'm wondering if I am biting off more than I can (or should) chew. We have a nice old piece from my grandmother's house, probably from the 30s or 40s. As you can see in the pics it has a lot of carving. The table top is under a glass cover and the veneer, marquetry and finish there is in great shape (pic 1 with glass on, pic 3 with glass off). However, on the carved parts on the top, there are problems where the finish has worn off (the article, while very useful, seems to only discuss techniques for nice flat pieces). I have yet to try the lacquer thinner and alcohol test, but I'm not sure it is either (though the top seems to have a different finish). Either way, I thought I would check here first with the experts (you people amaze me endlessly). What steps would you take in trying to revive the finish on this piece? FYI, grandma was a maniac with furniture polish and dusting.


P.S. I'm guessing all the carving was in some way automated vs hand carved? Or maybe not? How can you tell? You see, my grandmother's two sisters had the same table - all gifts from their mom. This is the only one left. So, even if it isn't a super valuable old piece, I like it and want to take care of it.

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Hi Peter, having finished many pieces like this back in the 60-70's i will say that all the one's i did were lacquer except for one which was shellac and varnish. This was what i call a transitional period for finishes, a few of the factories still clung on to the old finish while the bulk quickly switched over to lacquer / nitrocellulose/ peroxyline/ cellulose nitrate - all the same thing. This type and style of item was very popular and handsome.

So first off, let's talk cleaning the top surface ok? Since ther's a good chance it's been polished with silicone containing products over it's life, i would highly reccomend cleaning it with the following in 3 seperate steps ok? First use a mild detergent and isopropyl alcohol [ test to be sure this does not completely remove the finish] this step will allow the water soluble materials and dirt to be removed, apply with a clean rag and brush with a soft brush to get into all the nooks and crannies and then wipe clean with a soft dry rag, repeat if there is still signs of dirt, etc., not coming off. Let dry a few hours or till the next day if your in no hurry, then go through the same process using mineral spirits and naptha [vmp] 50/50 mix, again brush to get any solvent soluble materials out of the carvings this time with a paint brush with the bristles cut down to about 3/4 on an inch, again wipe with clean dry cloths. This should remove any waxes and oils like lemon oil polishes etc., and any color that was not original that might have been in any waxes or polishes used ok?

Finally, you will need to repeat the process using xylol and tylol [AKA - or xylene/toluene] - 50/50 again. since this could and will affect the lacquer if left on the surface for some time it's best [as is true with the other steps,] to only work small sections at a time like 8-12" per application and removal. Long enough to brush the surface well and removal with clean dry cloths. Let this dry over-night to insure that the finish that remains has adequate time to to re-harden, before starting the application of new materials.


The base color [first initial color is Burnt Umber which you can purchase from either an art store as an oil color or if you have a "Dick Blick or Pearls arts and craft, they will have it in a Ronan brand japan color in pints. This can be added to mineral spirits and naptha again to bring out the red brown color like you see on the base ok?

After that has dried for several hours then it can be sealed with a lacquer sanding sealer [3 coats an hour or so apart] and then sanded with a sanding sponge available from your local woodcraft store or if not then get back and i will give you where to get ok? it must be the finest grit they have like superfine ok? once you've sanded the sealer then apply one last coat to ready for the glaze. For this you may need both black and or Van Dyke Brown also available as japan colors from the same sources, The bulk of the color will still be the B. Umber, with very small additions of either black and or VDB. The max color that should be added to the glaze should not exceed 20% by volume of the mineral spirits base ok, that will be your guide as to how thick the glaze will be, and it can be much less, just not more [drying could be a problem as well as intercoat adhesion beyond that!!


After the glaze has dried, 6-8 hours, then your first coat of chosen sheen lacquer can be applied, i like to build with gloss and then apply my final coat of sheen [,semi-gloss, satin or flat] over the gloss to keep the milky look sheen lacquers cause when used for the entire build. It is also good and likely that one coat of glaze will not be enough and that you may have to adjust the color darker to get the blackish look i see in the lower part of the carvings, i would suggest you "sneak up" on that final color by making your glazing steps darker [blacker] as needed ---> always wiping the higher parts of the carving clean to keep them more the BU color you first sealed in, this is also known as antiqueing ok? The darker glaze creates more depth and dimension to the surface, while leaving the higher parts lighter, which is why you see what you do


PS: it may also be necessary if you find on the first coat of sealer - if it fish-eyes, that you may have to use a barrier coat os shellac to stop the problem, this may hold true if your grandmother used lots of pledge and favor polishes etc, so when you first spray the sealer just do a few inches or so to see if it seperates into little dips or holes, if not then try a larger area and if it looks ok try a foot or so. if by then you see nothing like this, then spray the entire top ok?
Any more info needed just ask ok?

[Peter Hawser]

Sheldon, I can not thank you enough for taking the time to write such a thorough set of instructions. I'm pretty much blown away with your generosity! I think I need to read this about 20 times before I truly understand all the steps, but again thank you so much.

[sheldon pettit]

Hi Peter, thanks, a few other things i forgot are after cleaning and before staining sand the parts that have no or little finish so they will better absorb the new stain ok? And a light sanding of the rest of the top also say 320 or 400 grits. The parts with no finish i would say 220 and 320 lightly with both just to make the surface absorbant ok? I'm sure some of the others here will or may be of help or think of something i have left out also. good luck

[Shawn Pixley]

Peter,

Sheldon gave great advice on the cleaning / refinishing. My advice would be very similar and differ only in trivial ways that are an individual preference. I would only add careful around the glue joints to ensure they do not loosen while cleaning.

As to the carving, it looks hand done to me. There area few asymetrical carvings. Machine work is almost too perfect.

[Peter Hawser]

Thanks Shawn. These techniques may be beyond my skills, but I have time. FYI, I took a look underneath for a maker, initials or something, but found nothing. However, I was kind of surprised to see what could be called... pocket screws! They are flat head and very old, but drilled in at a "pocket screw" angle to hold in the top carved piece to the base.