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Thread: Anyone notice the new LV stuff?

  1. #1
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    Anyone notice the new LV stuff?

    The new steel is for sale, very exciting, cutters for just about everything and the chisels are out too. I have been wooed by the promises of 20-25* bevels and had to buy some ........they also have a giant fenced low angle rabbet plane. Looks handy for trimming the tenons on your recreation ironclad?

  2. #2
    You're, of course, obligated to report back on the quality of the chisels now that you've admitted to buying them.

    I'd love to just buy the whole set, but I'm trying to play the part of responsible decision maker at this point.

  3. #3
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    Thanks for flagging the appearance of the plane irons. I just ordered a PM-V11 for my Veritas block plane. My favorite block plane is the adjustable mouth Lie Nielsen, but the Veritas block has been getting more use trimming plywood and other hostile material in my construction of feral cat shelters. I'm hoping to get better edge retention.

  4. #4
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    Slightly off-target.........Describing the pretty doggone cool jack rabbet plane, they say "........... it is suitable for very large rabbets and fielded or bevelled panels"

    My question is this: how would one use it, or any other plane such as the LN skew block w/fence, for a bevelled panel? Specifically, I don't see how the fence comes into play, nor how [if at all] it helps with a consistent, aligned, bevelled edge? OR - is the bevelled edge simply a question of scoring the targets and coloring within the lines?

    Educate me, please. I am not "getting it".

    Thanks

    Kent
    When I started woodworking, I didn't know squat. I have progressed in 30 years - now I do know squat.

  5. #5
    Applying a wooden fence with the bevel built in would allow you to put a bevel on a fielded/flat panel. In most cases I think regestering part of the fence on the workbench edge would be necessary.
    Trevor Walsh
    TWDesignShop

  6. #6
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    http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/pag...182,41192&ap=1

    if you scroll down on the link above you will see a picture of a fence with a bevel block on it....

  7. #7
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    ooo mama that is hot !

    I wonder how the PM-V11 chisels compare to the YXR-7 Japanese ones.... anyone care to do the testing? sound like a job for Derek - where are ya mate?

    BTW I'm the owner of Koyomaichi white steel chisels, hold an edge damn well... but I havn't used them much yet.

  8. #8
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    I was hoping that they would release a 1/8" chisel with the bunch, but they did not.

    If you had a set of these chisels (see http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/pag...47&cat=51&ap=1), what would you get for the 1/8" chisel to compliment it?

    Note that I do own the Veritas Detail chisels, love them (http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...35&cat=1,41504).

    Lie Nielsen sells on (http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?grp=1234)

    Stanley makes one (http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...89&cat=1,41504)

    Even blue spruce makes one (http://www.bluesprucetoolworks.com/c...ion&key=DT.125)

  9. #9
    Andrew, handle shape is way different, but I'd go for the LN 1/8 mortise chisel, I really like the long cross section in the 1/8" chisels. Like the old sash mortising chisels.
    Trevor Walsh
    TWDesignShop

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Weaver View Post
    You're, of course, obligated to report back on the quality of the chisels now that you've admitted to buying them.

    I'd love to just buy the whole set, but I'm trying to play the part of responsible decision maker at this point.
    Oops .. I meant I bought a plane cutter sorry to mislead. The chisels are very tempting ... I hope to do some chiseling tests with the plane cutter and that will help me decide on a chisel purchase.... I am a sucker for acute bevels on chisels, the finer the better, best I have found so far is Berg (not that i have scoured) but if this new stuff is better, its going to be a sad day in my shop.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by James Taglienti View Post
    Oops .. I meant I bought a plane cutter sorry to mislead. The chisels are very tempting ... I hope to do some chiseling tests with the plane cutter and that will help me decide on a chisel purchase.... I am a sucker for acute bevels on chisels, the finer the better, best I have found so far is Berg (not that i have scoured) but if this new stuff is better, its going to be a sad day in my shop.
    Just playing devils advocate - why sad? there may always be something better, but you have some great tools! which work, and work well! much more than our ancestors had when they made some things most of us only dream about....

    Now the other side.... I wonder how the HSS, especially the YXR-7 hold up with a 20 degrees bevel.... (it's fun... if nothing more )

  12. #12
    Lie Nielsen doesn't make an 1/8 mortise chisel... they make an 1/8 bench chisel only. not sure if thats what you meant to say...

  13. #13
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    I was kind of leaning that way because I can pare with it and whack it some. The Lie Nielsen paring chisels are for sure no whacking allowed. OK, I don't expect to be whacking a 1/8" chisel much regardless, but I wanted something a bit sturdier. Figured I could get some (or the entire set) of the new Lee Valley, but they are missing the 1/8". Would prefer consistency, but it is not critical.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Pitonyak View Post
    I was kind of leaning that way because I can pare with it and whack it some. The Lie Nielsen paring chisels are for sure no whacking allowed. OK, I don't expect to be whacking a 1/8" chisel much regardless, but I wanted something a bit sturdier. Figured I could get some (or the entire set) of the new Lee Valley, but they are missing the 1/8". Would prefer consistency, but it is not critical.
    I also think a 1/8 would complete the set... it's a shame, but hey, Rob sees this maybe they will decide to add it, if enough people feel that it matters to them.
    Regardless of matching - the regular Japanese 1/8bench chisels are kinda like mortise chisels. I bought an extra simple 1/8 one from Stu to grind down
    to 2mm, I think it will be more sturdy than a western 1/16. and as Stu said - a good test chisel. you can but them at 1.5mm too.

  15. #15
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    Matthew, there are a couple of potential problems making ultra small chisels: 1) the sturdiness of such a small shank and 2) sizing the edge. One solution incorporated by Japanese smiths is to twist damascus type mixes to increase the strength. Another would be slightly different shapes of slightly different steels. On sizing, just a warning, but it probably gets tedious answering the phone calls.

    At any rate, it's probably not just a matter of deciding to complete a set.

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