I may need some help.

[Russ Oxby]

For the last few months I've been getting more involved in the process of making pistol grips for full size and commander size 1911s, and it's actually started to progress from hobby to a part time business.

Until recently I've been using tung oil or polyurethane or a combination of both to finish my grips and it's been proving to work fine for the intended use. Last night I made a set that was taped off and stained with Cabot penetrating wood stain and the other half of the piece was left bare.

On a test piece I did the same thing, but when I applied Cabot polyurethane the nice clear line between stain and regular wood became instantly blurry.

I'll be the first to admit I'm new at this, I'm wondering if any of you know of a finish that I can use with this stain that will maintain the glossy appearance and the separations made from taping the stain from the rest of the wood.

Thanks for your time!

[Mel Fulks]

Not a finisher,but I find the bright no pigment look of the aniline dye stains much prettier and they will not run under the varnish .Something that small you could use the alcohol based stuff,which would save you time ,too.

[Larry Browning]

I would think you would need use a stain that is not based the same as the finish. So either a water/alcohol base stain with alkyd finish or vise-versa.

BTW: Versa Vise is the vise-versa of vise-versa.

[Russ Oxby]

With the red oak stain being simply a surface stain I sanded it out and refinished the wood with 600 grit once again. I applied the polyurethane in the middle stripe where I'd like it, so I reckon my next step is to find a water based stain. Once that's applied, if I read correctly, I can apply polyurethane over the entire surface and then buff out to shine.

Thanks very much for the insight!

[Mike Monroe]

Might try this.
1. Stain.
2. Seal the surface with a light coat of super blonde shellac.
3. Topcoat, etc...

[Mel Fulks]

These days aniline stains are mostly a mail order item. Woodcraft stores might have it. I don't think there is any difference between the look of the water base and alcohol based,the alcohol is just handier for small items. Even though they are both sold dry I don't think they are interchangeable. Let us know what you think of the look. It is better.

[John TenEyck]

You can use oil based stains and your solvent based poly BUT you have to wait for the stain to dry completely. At least 24 hours, and longer is better, regardless of what it says on the can. As others have mentioned, I too prefer dyes over stains for most applications, and I use mostly Transtint dyes in alcohol. You can spray, wipe, dip, etc. apply it, and you can put on your solvent based poly in an hour. You also can topcoat with waterbased products, however, the first coat has to be sprayed, otherwise it will lift some of the dye and make a mess.

[Scott Holmes]

Russ,

You should also think about using a better quality varnish than your OTC poly. Waterlox Original is a phenolic resin/tung oil varnish that is far superior to OTC polys. Phenolic resin varnishes are more UV stable; polys are highly susecptible to UV damage. 1911's are going to be out in the sun; polys tend to get chalky when exposed to the sun's UV.

[Casey Gooding]

Scott is right. Use a better varnish.
However, I believe most wood on firearms is finished with just oil (probably BLO or real tung oil). Like eleventy-billion coats of it.

[Russ Oxby]

I have this stuff called Tung oil Finish in high gloss, made by Formby's. I wasn't too impressed with how it worked on my earlier set of grips, very splotchy and random in how it dried.

The polyurethane is a step up from that stuff in my inexperienced view, so from here the only way to progress is up.

When I first started making grips I went off some instructions I found online and they called for straight tung oil, which is what I started with. All it seemed to do was darken the wood - a lot, hence my switch to poly.

I'll give the Waterlox a shot, I have to leave for a Navy school on Wednesday so I'll need to wait to try the stuff out. Thanks very much for your input!

[Casey Gooding]

Tung Oil Finish has little to no actual tung oil in it. It's mostly mineral spirits. You need to find pure tung oil. Try Woodcraft. I know there's one in Jacksonville, small and crowded though it is.

[Russ Oxby]

I've got some of that stuff sitting next to my drill press. But does it actually shine after a billion coats like one or two coats of polyurethane will?

[Scott Holmes]

Formby's Tung Oil finish is an alkyd resin/soya oil varnish that is thinned about 80% with mineral spirits. Thus it is a wiping varnish pure and simplealbeit a highly thinned wiping varnsih. There is not a trace of tung oil in it and there is no tung oil used to make the varnish that's in it.

FYI 100% pure tung oil is NOT a good finish for wood. Tung oil's true claim to fame is that when used to make varnish; the varnish made with tung oil is more waterproof than vanish made from linseed oil or soya oil.

The only reason many believe that tung oil is able to built are hard waterproof film is because Mr Formby has spent millions of $ advertising the myth. His varnish will build a hard film finish. Tung oil can not!

[Russ Oxby]

I should have asked here before I dove into the finishing aspect... I certainly understand the wisdom in your signature at this point! Thank you, Scott!

[Casey Gooding]

It won't shine quite like poly. It will develop more of a glow than a shine. No real gloss to speak of, but a warmth you will never get with a film finish.