Best Handtools to supplement one's power tools?

[David Dixson]

I posted this in the power tool forum because I'm seeking responses from those that use and focus on their power tools in order to save time in their woodworking, due to limited time to work or needing to get "production" if that makes sense.

As I'm using my power tools, I am beginning to find interest in adding more handtools, such as hand planes, scrapers and chisels to my woodworking arsenal. I feel some tools and models are probably better suited to supplement a Normite's arsenal than others.

Of various types of handtools, which ones do you find as a Normite you have actually bought and used to supplement your power tools as well as to continue working with when power tools are too noisy to continue working (such as late in the evening)?

For instance, what hand planes did you buy and do you actually use?

Which scrapers?

Which chisels?

Other handtools?

Which ones really complement the power tools you own?

Thanks,

[Tom Pritchard]

David, it was interesting that as I thought of your question, I realized that I don't use many hand tools. I own a couple planes, but I am nowhere near knowledgable enough to keep them sharp, and I can't afford to set up the grinders, stones, and tools to start that. The only other handtools that I use are fairly common ones, hammer (my boys call this my 'favorite tool! ), screwdrivers, squares, homemade jigs, pullsaw, chisels (inexpensive ones that I toss when they get dull), and clamps. Other than that, it's the power tools in use all the time. Sorry I can't be of more help.

[Matt Meiser]

For instance, what hand planes did you buy and do you actually use?

I bought all the whole number size bench planes from 3-7. Today I sold everything but my L-N #4, a #5, and a #7. I only plan to keep 3 block planes--my L-N rabbet block, a Craftsman standard angle block with an adjustable mounth, and a Record low angle block with adjustable mouth. Originally I was going to sell the Record, but decided not to for sentimental reasons (it was a gift from my wife our first Christmas and my first plane.) I'm also keeping a spokeshave. I have an old Craftsman Stanely 78 clone that I just got tuned up so I'm keeping for now, but I'll see if I really use it.

Which scrapers?

I have a Stanley No. 80 and several card scrapers. Still learning to prep them though. I sold the gimicky burnishing tool/file/hone I got a while back and now have a regular burnisher.

Which chisels?

The main ones I use are from a set of 5 Marples blue handled chisels I got before they were sold to Rubbermaid. I have 3 Stanley 750's ( I might sell that are the same size as ones from the Record set. I also have a couple other miscellaneous old chisels I might also sell. I'm not sure that I need anything better than the Marples and I definitely don't need more than 1 of each size. Or I might sell the marples that overlap. I also have a new Stanley chisel I use for houshold work so I don't mess up one of my good ones.

Other handtools?

I have some hand saws I really need to get sharpened and I think I'll use those. I bought a Japanese dovetail saw before Christmas and get a lot of use out of that. The other saw I use quite a bit is a flush trim saw, a Stanley from Lowes. I have a Crown dovetail saw I'll probably sell and a old Disston back saw that I might sell--its not sharpended so I'm not sure if I would use it or not.

For sharpening, I have two waterstones, a diamond stone, and a Tormek. I get the backs close with the side of the Tormek wheel, finish them with waterstones, then use the Tormek for the bevel. Before I got the Tormek, I just used the waterstones, and I rarely had any of my hand tools sharp enough to use.

I also have a fair number of layout tools, but you need those whether you are a 100% power tool guy or 100% hand tool guy.

[Russ Filtz]

I like using my bowsaw on occasion. A good dovetail saw comes in handy too. One thing I seem to use a lot of is a flushcut saw.

[John Weber]

David,

As a power tool junkie, here is what I would like to have for the basics:

Scrapers: A good set of hand scrapers, maybe a Stanley or Lee Valley #80 style, and the Lee Valley larger scraper plane is nice. Hand scrapers are the most used.

Planes: A great block plane: LN 60-1/2 Low angle. A nice jack, I really like the LN #62 Low Angle Jack, A good smoother either a #3, #4, or #4-1/2. I like the LN York Pitch 4-1/2 the best. A shoulder plane can clean up lots of jointery, and the Lee Valley Medium shoulder plane is a very nice piece. Finally a longer jointer plane, a #6 or #7, but this might vary depending on how you work. I've since added many more planes, because I like them, and also because each really does different jobs better.

Chisels: I have a beater set of Marples, and a nice set of LN's. Beaters are nice for all the rough work you use chisels for, and for fine work the LN's.

Saws: I use Japanese saws, but the I've been looking at a nice back saw.

In general I just enjoy using hand tools and use them more and more in my work. They do some things better then anything else, and don't create the noise or dust of power tools.

To start I would buy the low angle block and jack plane, a set of Marples Blue Chip Chisels (the best bang for the buck), a set of hand scrapers, and just add planes as you like. Either new Lie-Nielsens, Veritas, or some of the nice refurbed pieces we've seen listed here.

John

[Mike Holbrook]

Block planes are very handy. I have the Lee Valley with the special handles. A good Jack plane is very handy, mine is the LV Low Angle, I also have the LV medium shoulder plane, great for cleaning or making rabbits, dadoes and mortises and tenons. I have old Jointer and Smooth planes but may sell them and get a LV or LN smooth plane or two and a fore or low angle Fore plane. I have several card scrapers and a Veritas card scraper holder. I plan to buy a Veritas scraper plane.

I use a set of Japanese chisels and do rough work with some old Maples. I also have a Japanese Dovetail 27 tpi and a gneneral purpose 15 tpi one.

[Chuck Nickerson]

My set of Marples Blue Chip is beveled at 35* for hard work. My set of Lie-Neilson chisels is beveled at 20* for paring.

I also use Japenese pull saws to trim dowels/etc that I leave proud.

[Dave Wright #2]

I take it that you mean hand tools that complement or complete the work of power tools, or do a common task better than them. The difference between good work and great work is often hand tools. Do the heavy lifting with power. Make components perfectly smooth, properly aligned, and perfectly fitting by finishing up with hand tools. I used to be all power and sandpaper, but have come to mix methods.

I used to break sharp edges with sandpaper or a laminate trimmer. These days I usually do it with block planes and files. Sawn surfaces that came out a little rough are planed or scraped smooth instead of sanded. Small amounts that need to be trimmed (door edges for example) are done with block or bench planes instead of at the table saw. Rough bandsawn curves are faired with rasps and smoothed with files instead of sandpaper. Stopped dados are finished up with a chisel. Rabbets that need to fit perfectly are cut slightly short and finished up with a shoulder plane. Tenons that end up being milled a tad thick are tweaked with the same shoulder plane. Every now and then a cut comes along that is awkward or unsafe at the table or band saw. A dovetail saw usually bails me out. I often take out planer snipe by handplaning the high surface down to match the sniped end. Sometimes I have problems with tearout at the power thickness planer. I am usually able to finish the job with a finely set smooth plane.

All of this is simply each tool type doing what it does best. The list above makes it sound like I use hand tools a lot. Actually, I don't. I probably spend several hours running machines in the shop for every hour I am using hand tools. It may be worth mentioning that the hand tools must be razor sharp for good results, but sharpening breaks my work flow. I store my tools sharp and after each one is used put it out on the workbench. Only at day's end, or at the very end of some projects, do I sharpen the tools and put them away.

Hope this helps,

Dave

[David Dixson]

Thank you for the above posts. These things are getting me closer to what I actually need to purchase to complement the more expensive power tools vs. what I think I might "want."

Dave Wright has it dead on the head and has already headed in the exact direction I find myself wanting to head. Others have made excellent lists of tools for me to take a look at and consider, greatly reducing my "guessing" to a level I can afford to spend.

[JayStPeter]

Yep, I think Dave's list is right on. Think back on projects where something didn't fit right, or you spent an extrordinary amount of time tweaking a machine setup, or you had to sand something for hours to get it smooth.
Then, look at Dave's list and pick the right tools to fix that.

Personally, I wouldn't want to live without a decent set of chisels and a nice block plane. I think the next most used hand tools for me (other than layout tools) are card scrapers (all shapes). I have a few cheap files/rasps that are useful, but really think I need to get some decent ones. Finally, I have the LN rabbeting block plane that is great for tuning tennons, and a LN dovetail saw to make quick cuts much faster than setting up a machine. I have a bunch of other bench planes, but haven't really gotten comfortable with them yet. I do have a desire to plane instead of sand so their usage will increase. But, definitely start with a block plane.

Also, don't forget about sharpening. There is money to be spent there to make these tools all work. IMO, that is the single most frustrating part of the handtool learning curve.

Jay

[Scott Coffelt]

I think foremost, a really good set of basic sized chisels (1/4, 1/2 & 3/4). Something to keep them sharp (power or scary sharp method). It seems I use them on almost every project and task. Cheap chisels won't hold and edge and a semi-dull will either lead to injury and damage of the piece. A sharp one will cut like a hot knife in butter in most woods and can be controlled much better.

A good hammer and nail sets.

A good hand saw (I have a regular saw for rough cutting) and a dovetail sure comes in nice.

I had a 60 1/2 for the longest time and never used, then again it has never really been tuned up right. That is changing. I've recently started collecting other planes, some will be used quite often and others becuase I want them.

A good accurate square or two and am accurate tape measure.

I also have a couple of scrapers that get used every once in awhile.

[Steven Wilson]

I find the following hand tools to be of most use in support of the tailed devils;

Jointer Plane (Stanley/Bailey #7 type 11) - Ever nick your jointer knife and didn't feel like changing them? Well, a jointer plane is just the ticket - takes care of ridges and anoying ripples. Team it up with a Stanley 386 jointer fence and you can lay down a perfect edge in your sleep.

Lie Nielsen, low angle block plane. Every homeowner should have one of these. It survives drops on concrete, cuts wonderfully, and is the single best trimming tool around - Pricey but perfect.

A shoulder plane. Take your pick I have one I built plus a Clifton and they are very usefull for making tennons fit. Unless you are making a whole bunch of the exact same tennon it is much quicker to use a shoulder plane to fit tennons than a tennoning jig on a table saw.

Drills - yes drills - the old, real cordless kind. Take your pick Egg Beater, brace, ratchet, ratcheting screw driver, etc. I keep a countersink permanantly installed in one brace and a always use my ratcheting drill (Stanley) to drill starter holes for screws - much saner that chucking up the cordless.

Measuring and marking tools - scratch awls, marking knives, panel guages, rules, Starret squares, etc. They're all good, and all usefull.

Wierd Japanese chisels. Everyone has bench chisels (western or Japanese) but not everyone has experienced the joy of the speciality chisels that the Japanese are really masters at. I have about a half dozen chisels, some crank neck, some wide and low, some dovetailed in shape, that I use for paring joints (works as well or better than handplanes if you know how to sharpen) and cleaning up things. Talk to Harelson Stanley (japanesetools.com) and have him fix you up. You only need 2 or 3 but they are incredibly usefull, I don't know of a powertool that would do any better.

Bench chisels. Yeah everyone should have a few, 3 would be a minimum, more the merrier. I have a bunch from Two Cherries that I use as my everyday bench chisel. I also picked up a set from Lie Nielsen that are fantastic and really a treat to use but the Two Cherries are more than sufficient as a bench chisel. Of course don't turn down a set of Tasai chisels if someone gives them to you.

Mortise chisels. I've found that I can layout and chop the mortises for a typical table is less time than it takes to set up and create mortises with a mortiser. Of course if you're going to do hundreds of them then the mortiser will save your sanity. But for tables and such I do them by hand. Oh, Two Cherries makes a real nice mortise chisel.

Saws. If you take the time to learn to sharpen them then western handsaws are great to have. If you don't want to sharpen them then use the machine made japanese handsaws and replace the blades when they dull. I have a couple of Disstons (rip and crosscut) that I use for rough cuts, a decent Disston back saw for more finished cuts and a few Lie Nielsens for cutting tenons and dovetails. Yes, I like to cut tenons by hand. I still prefer to establish the shoulder with a cut on the table saw but for cutting the body of a tenon with a hand saw and then size it with a shoulder plane. I find that it's much faster to do than getting the tenon jig set up on the table saw.

[JayStPeter]

I had a 60 1/2 for the longest time and never used, then again it has never really been tuned up right.

I'm far from an expert plane user. But, my advice from the school of hard knocks is to get a good (LV or LN) LA block as your first plane. I think you need to learn how a properly tuned plane works before you can tune one. IMO, getting one that is easy to setup and comes ready to go is a big help.

Of course, none of this applies if you have someone nearby that can mentor you. If you go it alone, even the Creek can't teach you the feel and sound of a well tuned plane. It gets very frustrating when you've followed all the steps to a well tuned plane and still get poor results. Most of my old planes are now tuned well. But, I still don't trust them to "good wood".

Jay