Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 27 of 27

Thread: Removing chemicals/paint from factory reclaimed Heart Pine

  1. #16
    UPDATE:

    After a few hours of denailing and scrubbing the blackened side, I am really excited at how good these boards are looking (see pics). The black soot mostly came off with some elbow grease and a steel brush - leaving a beautiful red stain. (maybe it was cotton oil after all? Or maybe it was cotton oil and something else). It looks so good I almost hesitate to plane it off, but I think I can achieve a similar look with tung oil/BLO if I want.

    I am thinking for the lead side that I will just use a chemical stripper first and get as much as I can off first, because it is extremely flaky right now and I'm thinking the planing will cause a lot of debris/dust.

    Suggestions and input are welcome.

    Heart Pine 8.jpgHeart Pine 9.jpgHeart Pine 10.jpgHeart Pine 11.jpgHeart Pine 6.jpg

  2. #17
    If that means you don't have a dust collection system, please wear a dust mask. That is nice looking pine .Good luck!

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Piedmont Triad, NC
    Posts
    793
    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Neely View Post
    "because it is extremely flaky right now and I'm thinking the planing will cause a lot of debris/dust.

    Suggestions and input are welcome."
    Try pressure washing, before stripping. Should help a lot.

    Tony
    "Only those who have the patience to do simple things perfectly will acquire the skill to do difficult things easily.”
    Friedrich von Schiller (1759-1805)

    "Quality means doing it right when no one is looking."
    Henry Ford

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Tomball, TX (30 miles NNW Houston)
    Posts
    2,747
    Talk the wife into the rustic look, seal it with shellac and you're done!

    You have some really nice looking old pine there Dave.
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

  5. #20
    Thanks Scott. I'm curious - after I plane it, if I want to regain a similar look as the pictures above (darker/reddish look), what would you use? Just shellac? Two things concern me with that: 1) The table top is likely to get a good amount of wear and tear - is shellac alone enough protection? and 2) I would like a matte finish (I gather shellac can be sanded to a matte finish so perhaps this isnt an issue). Also, would you put some epoxy or something in the nail holes prior to the shellac?
    Last edited by Dave Neely; 09-22-2012 at 10:51 PM.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Tomball, TX (30 miles NNW Houston)
    Posts
    2,747
    Dewaxed garnet shellac would get you close... colorwise. then I would top coat with a good varnish.

    IMHO poly is not a good varnish, unless you need extreme abraision resistence, e.g. a FLOOR.

    A phenolic resin varnish will also give you about the same color and is much harder than the poly. Behlen's Rockhard Table Top varnish and Waterlox are both phenolic resin varnishes. If you have a choice of either, I would use the Waterlox Original it's available in gloss and satin. I give the advantage to the Waterlox because it's made from tung oil and tung oil's real claim to fame is; that varnish made from tung oil is more waterproof than varnish made from linseed oil.
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

  7. #22
    Hi Dave,
    I recently posted a similar thread regarding some reclaimed Cypress I purchased before I knew it was saturated with some sort of industrial solution/lubricant. The main recommended solution to my issue was also Shellac, but I also wanted to give you a quick "head's up" regarding planing the material.

    I have a Delta lunchbox planer (the portable kind with fold up tables), that I hook up to a dust collector. When I planed the wood, whatever solution is in the wood ended up gumming up the internal mechanism of the planer. Not a huge deal since it could be easily cleaned....but if there is still a dampness to the wood, just be prepared for the shavings the planer creates to want to stick to the inside of the tool (knives, etc). Also, the smell of whatever was in my wood wasn't too pleasant and if you are using dust collection, your dust collector may emit that smell for awhile, especially if the shavings aren't emptied out of the catcher.

    I haven't use the shellac yet, but am confident that it will seal out the smell as it is consistently recommended for this purpose by the experts on this site.

    Good luck.

  8. #23
    Thanks for the heads up Scott. I am going to try and avoid planing if possible and just get someone with a larger saw to cut the gunk off. Hopefully that takes care of the smell etc. Let me know how yours turns out after shellac.

  9. #24
    In my experienced opinion, To remove the paint use a citrus based stripper, but still use a respirator. Don't mess around with mechanical means, you'll just spread the lead around even if you have great dust collection, because it will contaminate your dust collection system. I would be concerned with the oil that has penetrated the wood. No telling what was used in what ever manufacturing process that the wood was exposed to. Not knowing can be extremely detrimental to your health.

  10. #25
    Hey all - I have an update and a quick question re: finishing. Update is that I had the boards taken and resawn. The issue now is that the wood underneith is pretty bare pine (ie no patina) - and some boards are a bit more yellow (have more resin) and some have some sap wood - whereas others are more of a salmon color w/ all heartwood - so I am a bit concerned about finishing. I am still considering just getting color from garnet shellac / waterlox - but after looking at some pictures im not entirely convinced. I would like to consider doing a stain (with a conditioner, or maybe a washcoat of shellac), and then maybe waterlox.

    Regarding the stain option - I have a few looks I am considering and I just dont know how to achieve them, so here are some pictures (id love to hear input on how best to get a similar look).

    First look would be some red/brown/amber combination, similar to what I wanted with garnet shellac. ( examples: http://www.krantzrecoveredwoods.com/...e51c582&page=9 ; http://www.flickr.com/photos/43364301@N06/6786004047/ ; http://beingbrook.com/wp-content/upl...4-1024x681.jpg ; http://www.performafloor.com/pics/mi...art%20Pine.jpg)

    The other option would be a bit more natural/grain enhancing (examples: http://tonystefan.com/img/reclaimed-...ne-shelf-2.jpg ; http://pushhardlumber.com/wp-content...sofa-table.jpg ) With this option, I am a bit worried about the boards looking very different (between boards, as well as between heart/sapwood on one of them), as well as the more yellow/resin-filled board.

    For the first look I was thinking of using a stain (provincial, maybe mixed with some english chestnut - assuming minwax), and then satin waterlox. For the second maybe tung oil or BLO and then amber/garnet shellac and/or colored wax...

    For either option: I have no idea what to do with the end grain (which will be prominent given the thickness of my boards) and would appreciate suggestions. (I gather end grain has a tendency to over-darken?)

    Anyway, Id love input / suggestions. Id like whatever finish to stay consistent with the reclaimed look (close to the wood, satin) but provide some level of protection - and to match the frame, which is going to be black steel (probably matte). Thanks!
    Last edited by Dave Neely; 10-11-2012 at 12:59 AM.

  11. #26

    Fact Checking

    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Holmes View Post
    Dewaxed garnet shellac would get you close... colorwise. then I would top coat with a good varnish.

    IMHO poly is not a good varnish, unless you need extreme abraision resistence, e.g. a FLOOR.

    A phenolic resin varnish will also give you about the same color and is much harder than the poly. Behlen's Rockhard Table Top varnish and Waterlox are both phenolic resin varnishes. If you have a choice of either, I would use the Waterlox Original it's available in gloss and satin. I give the advantage to the Waterlox because it's made from tung oil and tung oil's real claim to fame is; that varnish made from tung oil is more waterproof than varnish made from linseed oil.
    This is the current product.

    behlin rockhard.jpg

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Tomball, TX (30 miles NNW Houston)
    Posts
    2,747
    Interesting...

    Looks as though Behlen's has added a new product. I will need to specify the Behlen's Rockhard Table Top Varnish as apposed to the Behlen's Rockhard Table Top Urethane Varnish.

    Found this on the internet:
    NEW
    !
    Rockhard™ Table Top Urethane
    Varnish



    I hope the old formula is still available... If not I will no longer use nor recommend it. I noticed the price went down... HMMMM wonder if that has anything to do with it? Urethane resin varnishes are MUCH cheaper to make.
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •