False front drawers on fine furniture?

[Jim C Martin]

Hello All:
I am currently working on a replica of a Stickley 913 dresser for my wife and trying to decide how I want to do the drawers. Two options I'm considering are 1. to cut through dovetails using my tablesaw and bandsaw (as described by Duginske) and add false fronts or 2. to cut half blind dovetails with a Leigh jig. I really enjoy cutting through dovetails myself. Granted, they’re not hand cut in the true sense, but I still feel like I did them myself. But I’m not sure I like the idea using a false drawer front. I have access to a Leigh jig which would allow me to cut half blind dovetails. Of course I would have to learn to use it but the videos make them look reasonably straight forward (although I’m sure I will make plenty of mistakes in my first practice pieces). For some reason I don’t really like the idea of using a router jig. I can't really explain why, it just doesn’t appeal to me. So for me, each choice is a tradeoff: cut the joint myself but have to add a false front or use a jig but have a solid front. I could glue on the false front so as to closely approximate a solid front. For those of you who will tell me to hand cut them, its just not an option for me. I'm more of a wood machinist than a woodworker.
Do any of you wrestle with these tradeoffs as well? Which method would you advocate for a piece of heirloom furniture?
Thanks in advance,
Jim

[glenn bradley]

Do any of you wrestle with these tradeoffs as well? Which method would you advocate for a piece of heirloom furniture?
Thanks in advance, Jim

Yes, I do. I put metal full extension drawer glides on a recent chest of drawers because:

a. It was for me.
b. I knew I planned to load the deep drawers with things like jeans and full extension wood glides weren't to my liking for that job.
c. I hate drawers that don't open all the way.

I am currently re-re-re-designing a kitchen hutch as I struggle with trade-offs that will make the piece work over the long haul in a modern kitchen while remaining true to the sorts of pieces I like to build. God help the client who tries to cheap-out on a piece from me; I send 'em packing ;-) I don't want my name on something out there that looks like it came from IKEA or Home Depot's kitchen department.

Many of us have things we like to do and levels of performance we set for ourselves so that we can enjoy the work. Let your own 'balance' work for you and don't be put off by what "others" may think or do. The pieces you build are a reflection of your self. If pocket holes and staples make it work for you, go for it. If zero non-wood fasteners is what it takes to make you happy, go for that. I lean towards traditional but, I will use technology to make things fit the requirements for the piece at hand.

[Tom Scott]

I agree with Glenn. You have to do what makes you happy, or sometimes the lesser of two evils, since you are the one that will be living with the piece. In your case, no one will know the difference until they open the drawer. And even then, maybe only 1 out of 10 will think anything about it. That is often the case with what we do...a lot of it no one will ever notice or care except us that built it.

[Mel Fulks]

I disagree with purity theory on modern furniture. Technicaly the piece you are building is a copy and will always be a copy since the Arts and Crafts is over. There is plenty of evidence that the makers of the original stuff used some easier construction details as demand picked up. The style ran concurrent with Art Neauvoa but there are many more A&C pieces. Why? My take is that is,IT'S EASIER TO MAKE. Most of the better AN pieces are IMO European.I would use any method that you are comfortable with ,finish it ,and write something sweet to your wife on the inside of the drawer along with your names and the date. Heirloom and quality are two different things,who knows what the grand kids tastes will be? The principle value to the future will be the reason you made it. Not the way you made it.

[Mel Fulks]

That's the last time I will let Dr. Phill use my computor

[Jim C Martin]

Sorry for just now coming back to this thread, I posted my question and then got slammed at work.
Thanks Glenn, Tom, and Me for your input! Looks like I'll be building my drawers with bandsaw through dovetails and a veneer/false front. I also got a several responses to a similar thread over on Lumber Jocks indicating that my false front approach is actually pretty common.
Cheers,
Jim

[Paul Murphy]

I wrestled with this myself when building a slant-front desk for my home. I used metal soft-close drawer slides and false drawer fronts, and I'm sure in the end it was as much work or more than traditional half-blind drawers. It looks great, and functions perfectly. I am satisfied with my choice.
I have seen reproduction secretaries built with thru dovetail drawer boxes, and then ~3/8" figured drawer facings are glued to the drawer fronts. At first glance it looks like a traditional half-blind lipped dovetailed drawer. I see nothing wrong with that, but that's also not traditional construction. I'm glad to have seen this in a reproduction piece, because it made me realize fine woodworking does not have to be strictly traditional.