Work Bench Top Finish?

[Mel Fulks]

Doesn't get any better than that! You had us at "GM pattern makers shop".

[Dan Hulbert]

Yes it does. My Dad was on the shutdown crew for the foundry that made the Vega engine block. They could take whatever they wanted for scrape metal prices. Back then it was a nickle per pound. I did have to wait about 20 years to get the bench from my Dad, but it was more than worth the wait.

Also got a set of shelves that used to hold finished engine blocks. I can climb them and they don't even wiggle. I keep them next to my 7 drawer Lista parts cabinet that also found it's way out of the foundry.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Mine has a quarter inch masonite finish. When that gets chewed up enough, I'll unscrew it and add another quarter inch masonite finish.

Kirk

Yeah..good point....I have a neighbor that is a cycle freak; been in the bidness forever - works for a major motorcycle + marine mfg - commonly known big name. He has > a dozen. Raced bit in his younger years. Now, doesn't even ride them much - he restores them.

In his den is one he restored 2 years ago. Out-of-business Italian called Parilla. Work of art, parked beside the office desk. His wife is a saint, of course.

He is working on a 2d Parilla..........but two other bikes have interrupted that project since he started it 18 months ago.

Anyway - he commissioned a workbench from me. Made it out of RO. Custom height to his spec at ~ 40". Three sections below the bench top. Each has a 5" drawer just under the bench top, and a drawer/tray at the bottom - heavy duty glides, because that's where he stores his "in-process" engines.

On the bench top, I put in a HD lazy susan, with tee-tracks and custom wood blocks, and tee-nut bolts and handles. Those let him mount an engine, hold it upright and stable, and rotate it as he works on it.

And - finally to the point - the top is 2 @ 3/4" birch ply glued and screwed, with a RO rail all around it - 1/2" proud of the ply. There are 3 dead-nuts square and identical 1/2" MDF panels on the top, and he has 2 spares. At one end is mounted a HD mechanic's vise. The reason for the "thirds" on the MDF is that the panel under the vise is subject to oil and WD40 and lord knows what else. So - it can get trashed, flipped, rotated, and finally replaced while the other 2 panels go happily about their buisness.

I still prefer my ash + red wine finish.

[Stew Hagerty]

I used the old classic. Equal parts by volume: BLO, Beeswax (I threw in about 20% Carnuba), and Turpentine (although I used Odorless Mineral Spirits). Not only does the oil penetrate, but it carries some of the wax down with it and thereby giving it a much deeper level of protection. You rub the soft mixture (it melts in your hand) in, then let it sit for a while. I left it sit for a couple of days but overnight would work just fine. Then buff the top with a "Waxing Brush". I have two, one that you can chuck in a drill and a hand model and I use them to buff out wax on all but the most delicate things. The finish is fairly durable; much more so I think, than if you put the oil and wax on separately, and it is easily repaired as well. I keep a jar of it on my shelf all the time.

Cigarette ash and red wine.

Plus - various blotches of stray dye powder.

My "Man Cave" is a strict non-smoking area. However, red wine stains are another matter altogether. I do have to admit though, I have more coffee stains than wine. Ever try to get granola chunks out of a semi-gloss finish?

[Mike Wilkins]

Minwax Antique Oil Finish. Maybe a sanding and touch up each year (when I remember to do it between projects).

[Stew Hagerty]

My bench came from a GM patternmakers shop. The top skin is masonite coated with shellac.

[QUOTE=Dan Hulbert;1993202My Dad was on the shutdown crew for the foundry that made the Vega engine block.[/QUOTE]

Vega engine block huh? So... I guess you're not the first to use that bench when working with masonite then...

Crap, did I just date myself or what?!?!?!