Suggestions on kitchen remodel

[Shawn Christ]

This is our kitchen... my wife and I want to update it. Help me decide what to do with it, particularly the cabinets and soffit.

Cabinets are nearing 30 years old but in very good condition with 3/4" solid oak face frames, doors, and fronts. 1/2" plywood boxes are dadoed into the face frame. I really hate to discard them. I seriously considered 1) recoloring by glazing or toning to a darker finish; or 2) refacing with new cherry fronts (I am leaning toward #2 because frankly, I am getting tired of oak and that wide open grain). We haven't abandoned the idea of all-new cabinets either -- but I'm just not sure they are warranted, it would require some budget adjustments, and it would take me a year to make them.

And the lighted soffits -- keep or remove? These are 8-foot ceilings. If I keep the soffits I would probably want to wrap with panels and crown molding to match the cabinets.

The existing layout is manageable. Off-camera to the right is the refrigerator and another bank of upper and lower cabinets with countertop ending behind me with a closet-style pantry. The hallway opening by the fridge is narrow, only about 28". And the peninsula to the left will be modified and expanded slightly to add stool seating.

[Matt Meiser]

I'd rip out the soffits and run the cabinets to the ceiling, which automatically means you need new uppers. I'd worry about separating the old face frames from the boxes without damage. On my particle board cabinets that was about the only joint still holding. The rest of the boxes appeared relatively solid until they were detached from the walls, then they started falling apart. Also, depending on what you are thinking on counters, I don't think it makes a ton of sense to put expensive counters on cabinets that aren't going to last a lifetime if desired.

I'd say less than 25% of the work and cost in my kitchen is in the boxes (if you don't count the Festool MFT I bought along the way .) I make all my boxes from 3/4" prefinished ply which makes for strong (albeit very heavy) boxes. I bought 20 sheets at $65/sheet for a my larger kitchen and still have 3 left. I've got a pretty good system down after 2 kitchens and 3 bathrooms but I could probably build all those boxes in a weekend at this point. The only other cost in the boxes is a bottle or two of glue and a box or two of screws.

Also, a huge timesaver is buying doors and drawer boxes. The added cost is not nearly as much as you might suspect when you add up materials and consumables like sandpaper. I was able to literally take my doors from the pallet, clean them, and spray them. The drawers came finished for ~$40/drawer. For my kitchen, I'd guess 50% of the work in the shop was finishing, 25% assembly, 25% boxes and face frames.

[Von Bickley]

Just some things to think about:

If the cabinets are in good condition, and you are satisfied with the lay-out, you could reface the cabinets with 1/4" cherry plywood, replace the doors and drawer fronts.

You could also reface the soffit with cherry plywood and replace the existing lights with some recessed LEDs. Some nice crown molding around the soffit would look nice.

Granite counter tops would look good on cherry cabinets.

Refacing the cabinets and soffit would probably be the least expensive and the least amount of labor and kitchen down-time.

Just some things to think about.

[Sam Murdoch]

To echo Von, unless you are really unhappy with the layout and your existing appliances my vote is to reface. Buy new doors and drawer fronts and maybe factor some 5 piece paneled finished ends then apply a cherry face to the remaining wood surfaces. My guess is your drawer boxes are mounted on rickety 3/4 extension ball bearing slldes. a huge upgrade would be to build or buy new drawers and mount them on full extension Blum undermounts.

As for the soffit - unless you guys are super tall why make taller uppers? I agree with the idea of upgrading to recessed LEDs but also install dimmers. No need to surface the soffits with wood just new drywall and paint with perhaps some cherry trim.

Of course it will be time for new counter tops. That's where I would spend the money.

You asked...

[Shawn Christ]

Well, we talked it over and decided we want to change our layout, which means I am building new cabinets.

I think I will heed Matt's advice and order door/drawer fronts and drawer boxes online to save time. Recommends on websites would be appreciated. I think this also means I should go with frames rather than attempt frameless cabinets.
I'm still debating on what to do with the finished ends. Should I order doors to fit, or build panels to match?

For the cabinet boxes, I am considering the 11-ply 3/4" prefinished birch from Menards at $45/sheet (here is the pdf product page). Thoughts or concerns?

[Matt Meiser]

I used http://midmichiganwood.com/ at the recommendation of friends who have collectively used them several times. I'll definitely use them again.


Ply--find a good dealer that stocks US-made stuff. It's noticeably better than the stuff at Menards, even the Us-made Menards stuff.

[Mel Fulks]

I would at least consider finished ends without raised panels,I didn't see any raised panels on the sides of the two fine chests recently posted. I think most kitchens would benefit from less flash and more focus. If the paneled doors are going to be stained please be careful when picking a vendor . Some of those panel matchings really need PAINT.

[fred hecker]

Shawn,

When I built cabinets for a gut rehab, I bought the cabinet doors and drawer fronts from Rockler. Very happy with service and product. We went with maple w/ a clear coat(s) to keep the kitchen light, and small kitchens can get dark without good window lighting. Textured glass in cabinet doors also helped. Recessed can lights work as task lighting. Try to incorporate direct, indirect and natural lighting. Under cabinet lighting improves counter top work.
Good luck!

Fred Hecker