Outdoor propane heater question

[Jay Bruckner]

I guess this is sorta related to workshops. Outside of my workshop, between two barns I have a jig where I place logs to mill them with my Alaskan chainsaw mill.

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I can share more if you want, but this isn't about that. It's getting colder, and I still have a lot of logs to cut, so I'm probably gonna be out there in the winter. I need a propane heater so I'm not freezing and would like opinions on them.

The ones I'm maybe looking at are

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...7588_200447588

and

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...8524_200178524

I've never had a propane heater before. Are they effective at heating an approximately 20x20 area outdoors? Would the blower type or the radiant type be better? Also, there's usually a lot of sawdust flying around settling on stuff. Is that a problem?

I'm reading around and it looks like you need a huge propane tank in addition to the actual unit. Would maybe a kerosene heater be a better option? I do also have natural gas in the barn that maybe I could hook up to... That would be kinda nice...

Any other advice about stuff I'm probably overlooking is appreciated too. Thanks.

[ian maybury]

Very little experience Jay, but radiant panel heating e.g http://www.enerco.com/product.aspx?g...atid=83&id=415 is very widely used now in heating large workshops and the like that are open to the outside. It's claimed to be highly efficient - maybe 50% of convection heating methods that warm the air up. The key is that they radiate heat, which is absorbed by surfaces (including you) and kicked back into the space.

The blower type that actually heats the air probably isn't such a great idea, in that if used outside or in a heavily ventilated space the air you've just paid to warm up just blows away.

It's possible there are electric versions of these radiant panel heaters too. Propane mightn't be a good idea if you have hopes of using a heater in a woodshop/ workshop at some stage - when it burns it puts out a lot of water vapour which can lead to heavy condensation build ups unless the space is very well ventilated. I'd be cautious and would want to check too about the possibility contamination from vapours thrown out by the hot air type.

A Google on portable radiant heating workshop should bring up some information setting out the pros and the cons of radiant panel heating. Try the link 'why infra red heat' at the top of the page on the above link too.

ian

[David G Baker]

Jay,
If you have access to your natural gas supply in the area you are planning on working in it will be a lot cheaper than propane and you will have a constant source of fuel. The radiant heat type of heater seems to work quite well out doors. If you have a way to mount it above your work area so it can radiate down on you and your equipment it may work better. The radiant heaters come in several different sizes and it my pay you to get the largest one you can afford. The Natural gas radiant heater can be used indoors with good ventilation and without a lot of problems but the propane type heaters can generate a lot of moisture. I have used the salamander type of heaters like pictured in your post, they work OK but if you leave the path of the blown heat it gets cold real quick. I have used kerosene heat but it smells a lot and I haven't had any experience with using them out doors.

[Ryan Lee]

Very little experience Jay, but radiant panel heating e.g http://www.enerco.com/product.aspx?g...atid=83&id=415 is very widely used now in heating large workshops and the like that are open to the outside. It's claimed to be highly efficient - maybe 50% of convection heating methods that warm the air up. The key is that they radiate heat, which is absorbed by surfaces (including you) and kicked back into the space.

ian

We use this type of heater(electric 440 3 phase) on ships quarterdecks. It will provide you will a warm-up when standing next to it, but don't expect it to keep you warm if you are not within a few feet of it.

PS If you get the wrong model designed for 220 and hook the 220 version to the 440 the element looks kinda like lava shooting out. Just sayin...

[Robert Payne]

Torpedo style propane or kerosene heaters are commonly used on large construction sites to warm large spaces in the winter, but the usual practice is to put up tarpaulin curtains around the area to block the wind and help contain the heat. They take the chill off, but the workers don't shed warm clothers! I use a Kerosene convection heater (typical stand-up model; about 25,000 BTU for ~$110 at Northern Tool) in my 750 SF basement unheated shop and it will bring the temperature up from 55 to 68 in 20-30 minutes when it is below freezing outside.

[Jim Neeley]

Jay,

+1 on the natural gas if it is available due to price. If not and you'll be using it much, at least consider the convenience of a large tank.

The 125K radiant goes through a 100# tank in about 17 hours of use. This is due to the BTU rating. I'd estimate that the 120K-160K will last 14-18 hours.

As far as keeping you warm in open air, they won't. If carefully placed they may provide you the sensation of some warmth on your warmly dressed legs but you will be far from dressing casual. If there's much of a breeze blowing, forget it.

As far as using them in a visqueen / tarped in area, it is commonly done in industry however please understand that the heat these heaters give off is the exhaust from combustion, which may have a high concentration of carbon monoxide.

Should you desire to use one, at a minimum, leave the unit outside the enclosed area and blow the heat in through an opening which is large enough to draw in other fresh air. This doesn't guarantee safety but it helps with carbon monoxide. As far qas combustion of the dust clouds being generated, I have no insight, yea or nay.

Jim

[Jason Roehl]

I'd just wear a bunch of layers and skip the heater. Take coffee/tea/hot chocolate breaks every hour or two. Many thin layers are far better than a few bulky ones. I plow snow in the winter--I may be out in the cold up to 30 hours straight because I prefer to dress for the cold, run with the window open and the heater off in the truck.

On edit: I also dress for about 10ºF colder than what it is outside. Obviously, this is a subjective approach, but with practice you get a feel for how much you need to wear to spend a bunch of time out in the cold. On top of that, throughout the fall, I try to avoid wearing the heavier clothes for as long as I can stand--this forces my body to adapt to the cooler temperatures and makes winter that much easier to tolerate.

[Carl Beckett]

Im thinking you might have some scraps left over as you mill, which would make a decent fire..... maybe a fire pit?