I'm trying to figure out how much room (radius) I need to allow for the handle to swing freely. (The 12" screw version, but I bet the handles are the same size for the 9" and 16".) Thanks in advance!
-jamie
I'm trying to figure out how much room (radius) I need to allow for the handle to swing freely. (The 12" screw version, but I bet the handles are the same size for the 9" and 16".) Thanks in advance!
-jamie
clamp the work
to relax the mind
As with most projects involving other people's hardware, it is always good advise to purchase the hardware first. Manufacturers tend to change things in relation to how much it will affect you. When I started my bench I planned on only one leg vise on the left. I had the screw in hand. I mortised for the nut, then had the great idea why not twin leg vises, so I mortised and drilled the right leg and ordered another screw from LN. In the two months between the orders they changed the length of the screw (shorter) and the nut style (longer and smaller). The info on line did not reflect the new dimensions. The mortise I made was way too big. Lie-Nielsen was great they found (or made up) a now old style nut and shipped it to me at no charge. I later returned the one I didn't need.
What are you building?
Ancora Yacht Service
I second Jim's "make sure you have hardware on hand" comment - in my bench build, I planned around a Jorgensen quick release vise, using a PDF or something of mounting information I had found online, which another person had commented was accurate to the vise they had. After receiving my vise, I found out that Jorgensen had started using the same base for both widths of their quick release vise. It didn't throw too much of a wrench in my plans, fortunately, but it could have, and had I realized the screw was going to end up further from the edge of my bench than it did, I might have planned my dogholes differently.
" Be willing to make mistakes in your basements, garages, apartments and palaces. I have made many. Your first attempts may be poor. They will not be futile. " - M.S. Bickford, Mouldings In Practice
I hear ya! I'm making a Miter Jack, something close to this:
miter jack pic.jpg
I'm pretty locked into the dimensions, though... so I'm really trying to source a screw that fits the design instead of vice versa.
EDIT: Well, not really "locked in" but I'm just trying to keep in the ballpark. I'm looking for a screw with a 3" radius turncrank. Of course I can always put the thing on risers to make more room if needed. By the way, here's a link to the screw in question:
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/j...ssscrew12.aspx
Last edited by jamie shard; 11-18-2012 at 1:32 PM.
clamp the work
to relax the mind
You could always make the screw to fit, or as for the handle you could always use a handwheel similar to what benchcraft uses on their vises.
I just finished making a couple square thread 1.25 diameter 4tpi screws for my workbench vises (leg and wagon) and plan on using handwheels
I don't know if mine are Jorgensen or not but the handles are 6" long (3" radius). The only marking is "CC-1" on the flat side of the handle. Can't remember where I got them.
You could also go with one of the screws like Lee Valley and others sell, that use a wooden dowel for a handle, and make whatever length is needed.
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...34&cat=1,41659
A bump, just in case!
clamp the work
to relax the mind
Hope it works for you. I have two of them on a Moxon vise--not elegant but definitely functional. I have 4 more that I found at a tool swap meet for $5 each that I'm trying to decide how to use.
I'm interested in seeing your finished miter jig. I have an older version with a wooden screw that works well enough but I'd like to see your "modern interpretation".