I wonder if there are any modular timber frame builders near you?
Any Government surplus boatbuilders supply?
I forget how easy it is to find supplies on the "other coast".
Jim
Westport, MA USA
where there's STILL no hockey
I wonder if there are any modular timber frame builders near you?
Any Government surplus boatbuilders supply?
I forget how easy it is to find supplies on the "other coast".
Jim
Westport, MA USA
where there's STILL no hockey
Hey Jim,
I ended up finding a log home/timber frame builder about an hour away who has year old, DF 4x12 slabs. I can get two slabs for $50 and he thinks he can help me out with the 6x6 timbers as well. One of the other board members (thanks again Bob!) sent me a list of hardwood suppliers here in British Columbia as well. I've been playing phone tag with a couple of them and have been looking at the options of maple or ash too...not a bad problem to think about, and with the NHL strike still on there's some time too!
I did mention soft wood drying time would be quicker.
You could use ropes and a tightening stick as bar clamps to clamp up your top,provided the edges of your planks are pretty straight,and do not need to be forced together (which is never a good idea.)
Let them think your nuts. Next time you go in, tell them you're looking for a log so you carve a canoe with a butter knife. Maybe they'll give you a mental health discount
Again, you're getting excellent results right there in your neighborhood.
My expectation is that you will meet one or two old timers during your bench build.
They will have material and tools rolling around to sell off to a newbie.
If there were industrial arts classes at any of the nearby secondary schools (grades 9 and higher) there will
be some larger tools, and likely lumber stashed away in somebody's barn.
One caution - milling lumber is a laborious process by hand.
If you buy rough lumber, follow through to see if the seller can at least plane it flat.
I found my last project was 1/2 shorter, as I bought my boards surfaced on two sides.
(S2S) It was a step I didn't miss doing all that much.
I am suggesting wrapping rope around the bench,and putting a stick through 1 edge and tightening like a tourniquet. Things like this were done in the old days when tools were fewer. I know a guy who hauled a fairly large boat up on a beach using a twisted rope to very slowly pull it way up on the beach. It is called a "Spanish windlass". I mean,this was a pretty heavy boat!!
If you wound the rope pretty tight,you could also just try driving wooden wedges under the rope on the edges. BUT,since rope stretches so much,you'd likely run out of wedge. So,try the tourniquet method lest you find your glue setting up before you can get the rope tight enough. Try a dry run first.
http://www.roehmguitars.com/joining-...tops-and-backs
It would work, of course.
I would not do it this way. I would use threaded rod and shop made end blocks to clamp the boards together.
You'll need several lengths of rod - long enough to reach across the two boards and the stout clamping ends.
A couple of washers and nuts large enough to turn the works tight - plus some means to align the two boards so they ride in the same plane.
This glue up step is your chance to get the surface really close to planar, without heavy handplane work afterwards.
http://benchmark.20m.com/workshop/Ji...s_General.html
Half way down, you'll see a small example of what I mean to describe. I would use a hex nut to be turned with a wrench.
(It should be a size wrench you already own...)
I would also want to get joinery done when the two boards are separated - this thing will be massive when assembled.
A wooden alternative with wedges - http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips...p021601sn.html
Less likely to stain the top during glue up (cover with wax paper during assembly).