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Thread: Shellac - The What and Where?

  1. #1
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    Shellac - The What and Where?

    I'm about start finishing a cherry hall table that I built this weekend and was going to use a couple coats of BLO and then wanted to try some shellac. What is the proper type and where is the best place to buy it? I've seen Homestead finishes site. Does Jeff have reasonable prices? Waxed or Dewaxed? What pound cut? How is the finish best applied (I don't have a sprayer)? These questions could probally be answered by reading a book, but I figured I would ask any way.

    Thanks in advance,

    P.S. I'll try to post pics tonight after the BLO.
    Wes Newman

    "Where did all of my money go? "

  2. #2
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    If you plan on putting anything else on top of the shellac, you'll want the dewaxed stuff. The Zinser Seal-Coat is dewaxed blond and will save you the hassle of having to mix up with flakes. I've used a sprayer in the past for dewaxed super-blonde mixed from flakes, but wasn't entirely satisfied with the results. The last few times I used it, I just brushed it on with a decent quality natural bristle brush and like the way that worked out better than the spraying. The biggest trick seems to be keeping a wet edge and avoiding dragging your brush through previously applied areas. I just bought my first can of Seal-Coat through WW Supply but haven't used it yet. Everything I've heard says it's a real no-brainer vs. mixing from flakes.
    Use the fence Luke

  3. #3
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    I generally buy de-waxed flakes simply because they work in all conditions. Doug is right-on relative to the fact that some finishes (polyurethane varnish and many water-bourne products) don't like to live on top of shellac that contains the natural wax. While you "can" dewax your own by straining, it's a pain in the butt.

    Jeff Jewitt is a good source for shellac, IMHO, and where I generally buy mine. BTW, if you use flakes, you can speed up the disolving process by light grinding in an old coffee mill.

    One thing you need to understand is that shellac is different than other finishes. If you try and treat it like varnish, you'll have a lot of trouble getting happy with your results. Other than padding, shellac is actually best applied as a single coat, varying the thickness of the finish by changing the "cut" (ratio of flakes to alcohol) to get your intended result. It's supposed to be a thin finish and it not easy to get consistant results if you have to brush layer after layer on...remember, this is an evaporative finish and subsequent attempts at coats actually disolve what you already applied. That's where you get in trouble and get lines and other things. Put on a nice coat, let it cure. If you need to you can always do a very light knock off the nibs and lines with 320 and then pad a light layer on as a finish coat.

    Steve Mickley has a good article on shellac at this link.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  4. #4
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    To add to what Jim said, you might want to consider Zinser's new "French Polish" since the only equipment it requires is a pad and some elbow grease.

  5. #5
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    Jim, (and anyone else)

    My current schedule is Tried and True BLO, followed by Waterlox. I have read that some put a coat of garnet shellac over the BLO. Is the garnet shellac only applied to enhance the color of the cherry? Or does it also increase the chatoyance of the grain? If it is only applied for color, I think I can let the color turn dark by itself, although I can see where it might help if there are variations in color throughout the piece. If it also helps to pop the grain, I need to order some myself.

    I am interested in any comments regarding garnet shellac and what it can do for cherry.
    Martin, Granbury, TX
    Student of the Shaker style

  6. #6
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    Apr 2004
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    Jim,

    I've had very good success with multiple coats of shellac. I've found that applying with a white abrasive pad (the very fine synthetic wool alternative - 3M???) helps keep any lines from forming and helps the new layers meld more quickly with the previous layer. And it isn't as if already dried layer of shellac dissolves instantly.....you can't go removing shellac with a few wipes of an alcohol soaked rag.

    I do agree that adding a thin coat as the final helps get the best starting place for rubbing out....anyone get a nice film of shellac without either rubbing out or spraying? This would be for large surfaces. I have to rub out.....since I don't have spray equipment....yet.




    -----
    I've gotten shellac from both "woodfinishing supplies" and shellac.net. Good stuff from both and much less expensive than Woodcraft. Just use denatured alcohol from your local store, although 100% ethanol smells much better than methanol denatured ethanol. I also store dissolved shellac cold....and pull it out a day or two before I'll use it. If you open a cold bottle of dissolved shellac, you get a bit of water in the solution since alcohol is a bit hygroscopic.

    I use both dewaxed and regular shellac. As others have stated, you want dewaxed if you're using a combination of different finishes....so with BLO already in the wood, use dewaxed.
    Tim


    on the neverending quest for wood.....

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Martin Shupe
    My current schedule is Tried and True BLO, followed by Waterlox. I have read that some put a coat of garnet shellac over the BLO. Is the garnet shellac only applied to enhance the color of the cherry? Or does it also increase the chatoyance of the grain? If it is only applied for color, I think I can let the color turn dark by itself, although I can see where it might help if there are variations in color throughout the piece. If it also helps to pop the grain, I need to order some myself.

    I am interested in any comments regarding garnet shellac and what it can do for cherry.
    The garnet shellac is primarily used as a toner and is actually a wonderful way to finish the finish without using a wiping varnish. Shellac is a very "clear/transparent" material and that clarity enhances the pop you get from the oil in many cases just due to the way light is reflected. I would suggest you take a piece of a cherry board, draw a line across it in the middle, do your oil and let it cure for a few days. Then put the shellac on one side and let it cure. They coat either the oil-only side with your wiping varnish or both sides if you prefer. See what you think. 'Suggest you use something figured so you can test the chatoyance fully.

    BTW, if you are going to top coat with Waterlox or another wiping varnish...just consider using inexpensive BLO from the 'borg. You will NOT see any difference from the T&T. Use the more expensive T&T when it "is" the finish and you can fully enjoy it's silky feel and effect.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  8. #8
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    I only use flakes, and Jeff's are among the best. Woodcraft carries Hock's shellac, and I boght some onece, and still have some left as it is not to my liking. I use only dewaxed. If you mix it yourself, you can control the shelf life as in flake form, it has no expiry.

    For subsequent coats, if I am not spraying, then I generally pad it on, with mineral oil added to the pad with your fingertip (3 drops) to keep the pad from sticking or binding. I build it up for 3-4 coats, over BLO if I am trying to get the figure to show, and then finish with Waterlox Original for durability.

    If you are spraying, then shellac can be toned and you can get sapwood to disappear if need be, or even out uneven color in the wood. See my Newport desk post. There I had to tone it a bit as one cannot buy a flitch of mahogany. I think that all that is imported is cut in So. America, so you don't get wood from the same tree except by luck.

    In short, shellac is easy and quite versatile.
    Alan Turner
    Philadelphia Furniture Workshop

  9. #9
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    Oct 2004
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    Huntsville, AL
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    Thumbs up Thanks!!

    Everyone thanks for the information it is more than enough to get me started. I'll order some shellac from Jeff tomorrow. Now all I have to decide is which one. Here are the Pics as promised. One coat of BLO, I'll wait a week and then apply some shellac. Not sure if I should apply varnish afterwards. It's just so hard to tell what might happen to it with two little ones.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Wes Newman

    "Where did all of my money go? "

  10. #10
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    Wes,
    If you are ordereing from Jeff anyway, then you might want to pick up a yard of his muslin and a 1/2 lb. of his lint free (medical) cheesecloth. These two items will be a lifetime supply of rubbers, w/o lint. I go with the middle grade of blonde, and tone it as needed, unless something special is needed.
    Alan Turner
    Philadelphia Furniture Workshop

  11. #11
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    Alan, when you tone your shellac, what do you use for toner?

    Bob

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Johnson
    when you tone your shellac, what do you use for toner?
    You can use any alcohol compatible dye, such as the liquid TransTint or the alcohol soluable powders. The liquids are far easier to use for obvious reasons.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  13. #13
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    Sep 2003
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    I use Transtint dyes, which are made and sold by Jeff Jewitt at Homestead Finishing, his company. If you call them, he will likely answer the phone. I like the lemon yellow, green, red, honey amber, and one of the medium browns. With these colors, I can achieve just about any color I want. They seem expensive, till you figure out how little you use. I use the honey amber the most, and teach shellac with it as well, and am still at the 3/4 mark on the 2 oz. bottle.
    Be sure to stir it well!
    Alan Turner
    Philadelphia Furniture Workshop

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