another electrical code question - 12' max

[Bob Cooper]

does the maximum 12' distance between recepticles -- say in a den or a workshop -- still apply if that wall is covered in some type of built-in. For example if i have a long wall and want to have floor to ceiling 12" deep bookcases. If so where are they supposed to go..floor?

[Nick deMolitor]

No receptacle required. It's every 12' of usable wall space.

[Jim Andrew]

That is to an inspector with a brain. The idiots in my town would say you have to have recepticles on the floor, in the bookcase or somewhere.

[Chris Damm]

Only the idiot inspector in the next township would make you put one every 6'! Even if it falls on the 5" wall between the up and down stairs in a tri-level house.

[Jamie Buxton]

If you have one of those inspectors, the outlets don't have to go in the floor. Put them in the rear wall of the bookcase. Put them in the lowest level of the bookcase, and they'll never be seen. Yes, you'd have to pull some books to use the outlet, but that actually isn't too bad. It isn't expensive to do, and saves the heartburn of an argument with the inspector.

[Brad Sperr]

This ambiguity was addressed in the revisions to the 2011 NEC. Under, 210.52(A)(2) "Wall Space" is now defined as:

(1) Any space 2 ft or more in width, unbroken along the floor line by doorways and similar openings, fireplaces, and fixed cabinets.

Under the previous code cycles, you could arguably have been required to add receptacles to walls consisting only of built-in bookshelves.

A workshop also wouldn't have the same receptacle placement requirements, and would probably fall under:

210.52(G) Dwelling Unit Garage, Basement, and Accessory Building Receptacles, which requires:


(1) Not less than one 15A or 20A, 125V receptacle outlet, in addition to any provided for a specific piece of equipment, must be installed in each basement, in each attached garage, and each detached garage or accessory building with electric power.

[Mike Cutler]

Like everyone says. it's up to the inspector, and your actual design.
The inspector may argue that the built in may not always be there, or be altered, and require the receptacles. It's easier to put them in at that point. You don't have to ever use them.

When we put in our laundry,many, many years ago. I was required to put the 30 amp/240 service for a dryer, even though our dryer was gas and ran on 120. The inspectors argument was that the laundry may not always have a gas dryer. He was actually right,and we later switched to an electric dryer. We're back to gas now, but the washer has it's own on demand water heater built in,and it runs on 240, so sometimes the inspector does have a valid point.

[Jim Becker]

If the local folks really want them there, put them in. Get inspected. Then if you don't want to provide access to said outlets through the cabinet/case, remove the outlet hardware that would be hidden, capping off the pigtail wires with wire nuts and then put a flat plate over the box to seal it off. It will be there if ever needed.