Not a dust collection question....OK it is, but a different approach, need advice..

[Justin Jump]

OK, so for the most part, I have my DC system figured out, for my budget.

To start, I am going to get one of the 2HP systems, and mount it in my garage, which will them be plumbed up into the workshop above.

Here are the questions or advice that I need.

First off, my plan is to run 6" pipe from the DC, and have a main trunk that basically runs around the perimeter. Off of that, I will come of with Wye's and then either 45 or 90 degree elbows will go up into the workshop. After I "poke" through the floor, I plan to install blast gates, and either flex tube, or ridigd pipe to the machines.

First - I have a local source for 6" pipe, but as we all know, the fittings are outrageous. Has anyone found an online source for these?

Second - Since I have to poke through from my garage into the workshop, has anyone found or ever use some sort of escutcheon cover, or trim piece to go over the pipe as it comes through the floor? Being a bit anal here, but I am going to have to drill or cut some sort of hole in my floor for the pipe to pass through, and I am looking for a way to clean it up when it's done.

Third - I have 2 or 3 locations where I may just run a short piece of 4" flex from the bottom of the machine right to the main trunk. The shortest piece will be less than 24", and the longest will be 36". Therefore I am looking for a 6" to 4" reducer for the pipe. Has anyone found a wye for the 6" that reduces down to 4" where needed?

Thanks to all......

JJ in Pittsburgh

[Ole Anderson]

Ok, let's start with hundred questions: Can you tell us which 2 hp system you are looking at, is it a cyclone or a bag style system? Are you planning on locating the filter in the shop, in the garage, or exhaust it outside? Is the shop attached to the house or is it a detached garage? If so, there may be code issues with floor penetrations from the garage to the inhabitable space (garage fire issues). Is your garage ceiling drywalled? Are you planning on using PVC or steel duct? Your signature doesn't indicate where you live. If in a northern climate, heating can be an issue with a garage/heated shop system. Do you have easy access from the garage to the shop? Any Pics? My first concern is running the main duct around the perimeter may result in a very long main run with attendent losses in static pressure.

[Thomas Canfield]

Oneida has a large selection of duct fittings available including branch fittings, 6x6x4 or 5 Y fittings or even a 6x5x4 or other fitting. The size is stated as inlet D x outlet D x branch D. They are heavy duty but not cheap.

[Justin Jump]

@ Ole - I got most of all that figured out already, of course, the "budget" has defined some of the requirements. The space for the workshop is officially non-habitable space, it's not connected to the "living area" of the house at all, so I’ve eliminated any of the issues there.

My main trunk I am going to plumb as efficient as possible, and see where I am at. If I find the 2hp just cannot keep up, I will save up some $$$$ and upgrade, but for now, I need something.

I’m starting off with a bag style and keeping the bag in the lower portion, for incoming air, I am just going to open the windows. I may in the future think about a Cyclone and venting outside, but right now my budget is limited.

The garage ceiling is drywalled (5/8” type x), and I used 14” structural floor trusses, so I am going to have a straight piece from floor to ceiling of @ 15” or so, longer to poke through and have a blast gate to close off when not in use. My plan, hence the question about some sort of escutcheon, is to cut a hole, install the pipe, spray foam around it, then cover it up.

I am planning to use PVC….

Couple pics of the inside attached here:


http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...hing&highlight=

[Clark Harbaugh]

Justin, I just went through the same type of upgrade (short of having to penetrate the floor...). Stay away from 4" if at all possible. I upgraded from 4" to 6" throughout, and at the same time built a Thein separator for a trash can and installed a Wynn filter. BIG noticeable improvement over a stock bag filter and 4". I ended up finding that steel duct from a HVAC supplier was much cheaper. Even from the borg stores, it was less than PVC for the 6". The wyes were only $8 using steel. The only tool I haven't modified to 6" yet is my Dewalt planer, but that is on the list to do.

[Jim Becker]

Justin, do remember that a "perimeter" duct layout is probably the least efficient design you can use as it can substantially increase the duct length.

[Greg Peterson]

I use a HF DC unit that uses a cartridge filter rather than the stock bag. I roll it over to and hook it up to each tool. In most instances, I use the HF DC and a shop vac to control the fines. In addition, I run a air scrubber unit. My particle counter lets me know if the count is getting too high.

I use about 6' of 5" flex hose from the HF unit to the tool. I find the performance to be generally acceptable. I'm skeptical that a 2 hp unit will deliver adequate performance for the system you have described.

IMO, many, if not most tools, have very poor DC. The Euro equipment appears to address DC at a fundamental design level rather than an a after-the-fact add-on.


A particle counter will go a long way towards helping you determine what fines collection methods are most effective.

[Ben Burns]

When I did mine, I used 6" S&D pipe and fittings I got from Menards. More reasonable cost than the standard 6" fittings. They have fittings for 6x6x4" y's too. I'm not sure if Menards is by you.

[Jim Andrew]

Using a bag system, you don't have to open windows, as no air is leaving the building.