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Good to know, Leo, thanks! I'll try that...
I drink, therefore I am.
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Leo ... thanks for the added illustrations of your chainsawing advice. You've got a good eye observing the rip sawing pattern in my photo and noting the reason for same. Now I understand ... will change my chainsaw cutting approach on the next tree that falls in my back yard ... will need to make a temporary cradle to safely hold the log billets steady for lengthwise ripping.
Tom
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Tom, an easy cradle is a sacrafice log with a "V" cut out lengthwise for the log you want to cut to sit in the "V". But you have to chock the sacrafice log so it doesn't roll side to side.
Also, with this method, you'll want to make your center cut(s) to cut out the pith first...but don't cut all the way through! Stop a couple inches from the end of the cut. Then make your outside cuts (assuming you not doing a NE bowl) and cut them all the way through. Then go back and finish that last couple inches in the middle cut(s). If you don't do it that way, you are left with a 1/2 log that won't want to stand up for those outside cuts... Hope that was explained well enough.
I drink, therefore I am.
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Tom if you want to build a safe saw horse that will last, then I have a PDF here that shows how to.
It uses 1" dowel pegs for holding the 2 top plates, so there are no steel bolts or screws to saw into.
Mind you when not at home, I have used a block set on end to lay the one to be sawn on, a couple of wedge pieces will keep it on top.
http://www.ovwg.org/New-OVWG-Site/Te...aw%20horse.pdf
Also a few pictures that are worth looking at, it will show at least one way of doing this
http://wonderfulwood.com/sawing-a-log-for-bowls/
Have fun and take care
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