Dust Collector A Lot of Work

[Brian Brightwell]

What size inner tube? Where does one buy an inner tube?!

I have used old bicycle tube on Bessey clamp handles. They work nicely here.

I can't remember the size of the tube I will look tomorrow. I stopped at a local tire store and we guessed at the size. We cut it into and it was perfect.

[Brian Brightwell]

I have a customer who has just done an installation using a programmable controller on each machine to control the Clearvue automated gates, they took standard gates and powered them with Pneumatic cylinders. The cyclone is never turned off the gates are what controls the system. It is the most complete installation I have ever seen and they are going to put up a web site showing the whole process. I will post a link so others may drool as to duplicate it would be very costly for anyone. It was all done under a government grant as part of the Men's Shed program in Australia.

I was thinking of a PLC, I have an old Allen Bradly slick 500 somewhere. But I don't think I have a programmer.

[Alan Schaffter]

I used a discarded blown truck tire tube a tire shop gave me for free. I have one between my duct work and the inlet to the blower and the one shown on the outlet of the cylone:



Oh, and here is the adapter I made for my Unisaw:

[Jim Neeley]

Awesome Uni adapter, Alan! I have one to make myself (I started my CV piping install over my son's Christmas Break from college and hope to finish it this summer between my son's semesters). Qhat is it made from? MDF? Any sketches or pictures with the hood removed? I've got a HTC roller extension to add to my new Uni and think I'f going to need a similar hood to handle the small space available.

You're right, it's one heckuva lot of work. I found it made easier by buying a 1000# rated rolling scaffold (3'x6') that adjusts from 1' to ~5' high. Much nicer than working from a ladder!!

Jim in Anchorage

[Brian Brightwell]

Way to go Alan. I like the paint to match the saw. I plan on a little painting later.
So I was second one to use inner tubes at least I am not alone.
I noticed you used turnbuckles for plumbing the cyclone. Smart.

[Alan Schaffter]

Awesome Uni adapter, Alan! I have one to make myself (I started my CV piping install over my son's Christmas Break from college and hope to finish it this summer between my son's semesters). Qhat is it made from? MDF? Any sketches or pictures with the hood removed? I've got a HTC roller extension to add to my new Uni and think I'f going to need a similar hood to handle the small space available.

Jim in Anchorage

Thanks. It was made with 3/4" MDF and 1/2 of a PVC coupling (makes for a quick disconnect- see photo) and assembled with glue and brads only. I rounded the corners then painted it. It is mounted to the cabinet over the existing rectangular opening with screws installed from the inside.



Photo taken before I converted all my blast gates to auto-gates and relocated them below the floor:

[Alan Schaffter]

Way to go Alan. I like the paint to match the saw. I plan on a little painting later.
So I was second one to use inner tubes at least I am not alone.
I noticed you used turnbuckles for plumbing the cyclone. Smart.

I decided to use a flexible "tire coupling" and turnbuckles to make it easier to align the cyclone. My unit is plumbed in the "push-through" configuration so the cyclone and motor/blower unit are mounted separately:





Here are some shots of the ducting that runs along the garage ceiling below my second story shop. Pretty straight and straight forward. No sharp bends, mostly 45s, and minimal changes in height- all downward. Autogates weren't installed and relocated to the ducting behind the shop walls or the garage ceiling until later:





An auto-gate in the space behind the shop knee wall. This is a conversion of an old manual gate from my previous shop:



This is a newer gate. It is mounted along the garage ceiling where the duct goes up to a hatch covered in-floor DC port (see pics in previous post) for the tablesaw or jointer. I can't tell which:

[Brian Brightwell]

Very slick setup Alan. Thanks for posting the photos.
Where did you get the 6 inch hose. I don't have a source for that yet.

[Jim Neeley]

Thank you, Alan!!

[Alan Schaffter]

Very slick setup Alan. Thanks for posting the photos.
Where did you get the 6 inch hose. I don't have a source for that yet.

I got it various places. I purchased some based on price (item cost AND shipping which can be expensive!) and some by application. I have a few feet in locations where it might be subject to abuse so I believe I got the heavier duty stuff from from Grizzly (Woodstock Int'l p/n W1036). It currently lists for $5.90 per foot. I probably have some I got from Wynn ($4.60, $9.80, $14.70 per foot for 10'), Oneida ($6.00 per foot for 6" dia.), at a WW Show, or from one of the WW retailers- I can't remember. The lighter duty, less expensive stuff was purchased from McMaster-Carr ("Clear Economical Clear Duct for Dust" p/n 56355K34 ). It is sold in 5' increments up to 25' and costs $4.83 per foot for less than a coil and $3.76 per foot for a full 25' coil. Prices sure have gone up since I bought mine.

[Jim Neeley]

A hint on shipping and kudos to Wynn for this:

You pay for volume when you ship hose, unless you ship it with heavy stuff.

Twenty-five feet of 6" hose rolled up is huge. A 25' roll of 6" compressed lengthwise is about 5' long x 6" diameter.

Jim in Alaska

Getting the vendor to compress for shipping brought my shipping cost for the hose down about $80 from ~$120.

[Ole Anderson]

6" HD clear, wire reinforced hose at Penn State is $44.95 for 10 feet. http://www.pennstateind.com/store/N-CVD-0610.html I have it in their 5" size to the bottom of my TS. Good stuff. You can almost stand on it, yet it is quite flexible.

[Brian Brightwell]

I failed to post the size of the inner tube I am using for isolation. It is KR 14/15. You can see the size in the photo.

[Andrew Joiner]

Brian I quoted your post from another thread. Did you move your cyclone? the pics I see show it inside.
Originally Posted by Brian Brightwell
I am just getting my DC off the ground. It is hooked to my table saws and jointer. I went with a 5Hp ClearVeu. I put the cyclone outside and discharge air is outside so no filters or dust from them are inside. Seems to work well. The noise is very tolerable. I don't even have to raise the volume to lessen to Rush.



Why would you need a cyclone if you're discharging your air outside? Couldn't you just blow everything collected into a container?

[Brian Brightwell]

Brian I quoted your post from another thread. Did you move your cyclone? the pics I see show it inside.
Originally Posted by Brian Brightwell
I am just getting my DC off the ground. It is hooked to my table saws and jointer. I went with a 5Hp ClearVeu. I put the cyclone outside and discharge air is outside so no filters or dust from them are inside. Seems to work well. The noise is very tolerable. I don't even have to raise the volume to lessen to Rush.



Why would you need a cyclone if you're discharging your air outside? Couldn't you just blow everything collected into a container?

Andrew when I say the cyclone is outside it is under cover but outside the shop area. Here is another picture. The cyclone is above the drum.
If you just blew everything outside I would think it would be a hell of a mess.