Sheldon, I don't disagree with you and can honestly state that shellac wouldn't be my own choice or recommendation for filling grain. Nonetheless, some folks will choose to do so for their own personal reasons.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Anyone use Abranet sanding discs?
LOL. you use a propane torch, not an oven or hot melt knife. Remember your not removing alot of excess since its already applied pretty uniformly not in a clump of shellac stick. All your doing is warming the 4-6-8" blade enough to pull excess of while packing the pores with what builds up on the knife as you move along. No.... there are no show you guides to do so but it would only take spraying a 1' board or so and testing yourself before moving onto bigger surfaces. Just make sure its a non flexible blade [thick type] and you heat it enough to do the job without burning the wood, just as you would do if burning in on bare wood with a lac stick ok? Again, the wood must be as flat as the blade to work properly, a wavy wood surface won't work!! I only used this method on flat surfaces.
Sincerely,
S.Q.P - SAM - CHEMMY.......... Almost 50 years in this art and trade and counting...
Used them alot up till 06, found they were great for removing old finishes, didn't care for them as much for actually sanding the wood though. I prefer wet or dry for that. Last longer and sands faster, especially the heavier grits.
Sincerely,
S.Q.P - SAM - CHEMMY.......... Almost 50 years in this art and trade and counting...
I use Abranet both on turned and flat work. It's good, but there are IMHO just as good 'conventional' sandpapers.
The screens won't corn up as easily, but they shouldn't be used wet.
One other side comment, to go along with the shellac being dry when you sand it.
You'll get a lot less plugging if you use the paper / sanding block only in one direction and lift it and repeat. The important part is probably just that you lift it and don't mash the paper back and forth over semi-sticky dust. I can't remember if I brush off the paper by hand at the end of each stroke, but I can scuff a large panel before having to deal with much plugging it.
If I just keep a block on a finish going back and forth, it loads almost immediately.
I have had good success wet sanding shellac using paraffin oil with either (or both) wet/dry paper or steel wool. After you get it cut back to where you want it, just wipe off the excess oil, then remove the remainder of the oil with a mineral spirits soaked rag. Then just continue with the top-coat of your choice.
Paraffin oil wet sanding is also a great technique for non french polished items. After wiping dry, apply a couple coats of a good paste wax and you have a great looking deep "hand rubbed" finish.
"I've cut the dang thing three times and it's STILL too darn short"
Name withheld to protect the guilty
Stew Hagerty
I gave up on using shellac as grain filler. Just wound up being too much work. I'm much happier using oil-based filler (although I have a can of water based that I'm waiting to try.) It's just quicker and easier to fill the pores with. JMHO. Has other technique issues, but it works and looks nice when finished.
Still dying to try the plaster-of-paris approach, though.
I'll leave the big boys to argue about sanding the shellac. Learned something with the scraper approach, though Scott.
- After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
- It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.
Had to look up IMHO !I thought it was a brand of sandpaper.ha ha I love abranet ,they last a long time and don't fill up.I do use regular discs for finishing.
Sealcoat is 1.5# dewaxed shellac. You can wetsand it with MS. Reading back thru this thread, I see that I'm in the minority in wetsanding shellac - so please don't go just by me. When I sand shellac - as a sealer - I sand about as 'aggressively' as when I'm rubbing out; I'm sanding for smoothness to touch. To this end, it's pretty quick. Each area really only requires a quick pass or three.
Actually Seal coat is a 2# cut 100% de-waxed shellac. The other Zinsser shellacs are 3# cuts. I don't know the cut of the spray can shellac; it too is 100% de-waxed.
Scott
Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.