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Thread: Hopeing to connect with Oneida V-2000 owners with wall mount setup

  1. #16
    Dick,
    I looked over the photos of your shop. No bonding for static electricity? Ilike the duct tape idea. What brand did you use? Are the flex hoses just tapedto the blast gates? Was it overall cost effective? When you sized the turns didyou take the diameter radius factor from the chart to pick the deductions? Ipromise to stay on topic. I have a DC to build.
    I am not sure if I will just spend mymoney and take my chances just yet. I do like how you took things down storedthem away and parked the cars back in the garage. I might build that idea intomy layout. The 3hp might then be the ticket and the 6" PVC to be the Ductmaterial with 6" flex where I have problem negotiating odd changes indirection.
    Tom


  2. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Palm Springs, CA
    Posts
    1,085
    " No bonding for static electricity? Ilike the duct tape idea. What brand did you use? Are the flex hoses just tapedto the blast gates? Was it overall cost effective? ...............Tom"

    I spent a lot of time reading the excellent compilations of Bill Pentz and also spent too much time investigating the need to ground my ductwork. I came to the conclusion that for me, in a home shop environment, there was essentially a zero risk of dust explosion given the amount of chips that I will ever produce at one time. Therefore no grounding. I used sheet metal hex head zip screws to lock the pipe together (no glue in case I want to reconfigure it) and the white duct tape is from Home Depot but is VERY sticky and hasn't dried out.

    My flex hose is simply inserted into the PVC fittings and I used a small machine screw and nut with washers to keep the flex from pulling out of the fitting. They are a tight fit.

    When I put the system together, I used a home made manometer and a relatively inexpensive hand held anemometer to measure static pressure and CFM with each gate open individually, and recorded the readings. While my methods weren't strictly up to high engineering standards, I got solid enough information to know that the system was well sealed and moved plenty of air at any port.

    Since the V series has only a 6" dia inlet, I simply used 6" ducting. As far a cost effectiveness, the PVC is becoming much more expensive (got mine through a local irrigation supply co) and although easy to work with and very smooth walled, I can't say that it ultimately was much less expensive than having gone with metal ducting, but I'd do mine the same if I needed to do it again.
    Last edited by Dick Mahany; 01-03-2013 at 8:23 PM.
    Dick Mahany.

  3. #18
    Thank you Dick
    Tom

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Upstate NY
    Posts
    3,789
    Quote Originally Posted by David Kumm View Post
    Did you verify the amp draw with Grizzly? Their 5 hp motor draws 22.4 amps and I've never seen a 3 hp even close to that in draw. The 15.5" impeller is large but likely the filter restriction keeps the cfm down as well as the amps. The impeller design must either have less depth or have a different curve or it would burn out the motor if a true 3 hp and used with 8" pipe. The specs show about 500 cfm less at 2" than the 5 hp 16" unit and the max SP is about the same so it may be that the 3hp is mislabeled rather than the amp draw. Dave
    Yes, Grizzly says it is 22a and requires a 40a circuit.
    I suspect it might be the same motor as on the 5hp, but the cfm is held down by the smaller impeller and filter.

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