Under stairs cabinet questions

[Jim Cartlidge]

I have a void below the main stairway to the 2nd floor. It currently has drywall on both sides. Construction occurred 1986.

I want to remove the gypsum from the narrow hallway side and insert 2, 3 or 4 frameless cabinets. The depth of the cabinets will be 2' limited by width of hallway, height will vary from 2.5' to 6.5' rising with the stairs, overall length will be 6+'. Primary use of all cabinets will be kitchen storage: equipment, supplies and canned goods.

I have yet to take down the rock to expose the stair construction. This is the reason I don't know the actual number of cabinets to be installed; not sure how many studs can safely be (re)moved.

Since the hallway is narrow, the boss wants the cabinet doors to be inset and equal to the existing drywall. Preferably no trim extending into hallway.

Some of the shelves will be stationary, others will be pullout.

Since some of the storage/equipment will be quite heavy I am wondering what the maximum width of 3/4 ply is to avoid long-term sag.

Also, I've seen the plastic chases to finish drywall butting against wood and don't care for the look. Any suggestions on finishing the face with minimal protrusion?

[Dave Richards]

Someone else will probably be along and answer your question about finishing the drywall to cabinet joint. I have a few ideas but I'm no professional. As to the width of 3/4" ply and no sag, that's a difficult thing to say. Even a fairly narrow piece could sag with enough weight and time.

You said you'd have pull out shelves. It seems to me that considering the narrow space in which you'll have to access the cabinets, heavy items should be put on pull out shelves in which case they could actually be trays instead of flat shelves. With rails all the way around the thing would be quite stiff and with full entension, heavy duty slides, they would be very handy.

[Dan Hulbert]

I once used 1/2" angle aluminum to finish off the raw edge of drywall. I think I used some liquid nails to hold it in place.

[Sam Murdoch]

Like Dave says about the shelves/trays. You could simply double up the ply. Anything wider than 30" x 10" deep is too much for a 3/4" shelf in a normal bookcase use without solid attaching on the back and a solid wood edge on the front.

As for the drywall - I would use a metal corner bead all around the very well prepared opening and my door jamb would be rabbeted on the back edges (the face against the drywall) about 1/4" square. The edges of the jamb beyond the rabbet would flush out with the face of the drywall.

Like this -

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